Inverter/Solar System

[GBR]

Thanks again Joe. As I said in the post, the pic was low quality and I’m trying to figure out how to rotate the pic as well. My setup is, as you reinterated and the wiring from the battery to the 1000 watt inverter was scaled by Renogy and included with the purchase. As well I will also insert include a 150amp inline fuse as recommended by the manufacturer.

Truly appreciated;

George

[Stircrazy]

Originally Posted by PappyJoe

The "Generator Input" - Normally CLOSED would be from the INVERTER/BATTERY.


Normally Open will supply shore power if available. If shore power is not available, the transfer switch will connect to the "Normally Closed" side to supply power from the battery/inverter only to the designated outlets with the yellow sticker on them.
Hope all that makes sense

one clarification, the normally closed will only supply inverter power if the inverter is running or it will stay closed, and if he is using a transfer switch and hooking it up like I did, then the whole ac side of the rv will be live.

with a 1000 watt inverter you have to watch what you turn on if you hook it up this way as the microwave will trip it out and several other large loads.. a 2000 watt inverter would have been a perfect size for a 30 amp rv hooked up like this.

[GBR]

Now I’m unsure you may not understand that the only thing that I’m trying to power are the 7 stand alone plugs that were wired by a yellow romex loop under the 200 Solarflex package. This loop is being cut with line side to N.O. and the load side return N.C. to AC panel. When the AC main power is disconnected, the new inverter will power these 7 plugs only. This is why I chose only 1000 watts. I hope I’m still on the correct path here.

[NH_Bulldog]

Stir, I read this as he was looking to use the existing inverter loop prep, not rewire the camper directly to the main panel like you have done.

Since the microwave is NOT on the existing inverter circuit, it is a non-issue in this case, so a 1,000 watt inverter should be perfectly fine.

I never installed an inverter in mine since I just fire up my generator to run anything and everything I need (including microwave, coffee maker and air conditioner). If I ever did install an inverter, the biggest loads on that circuit are my outdoor kitchen refrigerator (beer fridge) and the television. Neither are "required" for me since I have a large inside refrigerator and I have yet to watch TV in any camper I have ever owned, and using my old-school percolator coffee pot on the stove is a welcome change from the Keurig now and then.

[PappyJoe]

Yes, just like NH Bulldog said.

[Stircrazy]

Originally Posted by GBR

Now I’m unsure you may not understand that the only thing that I’m trying to power are the 7 stand alone plugs that were wired by a yellow romex loop under the 200 Solarflex package. This loop is being cut with line side to N.O. and the load side return N.C. to AC panel. When the AC main power is disconnected, the new inverter will power these 7 plugs only. This is why I chose only 1000 watts. I hope I’m still on the correct path here.

ok that makes sense, sorry about that, two very similar posts and I got them mixed up, the other was about how not to have the converter running when the inverter was on. to me 1000watts is still low, depending on the placement of the plugs (which I don't know so I am guessing here) if you want to run a toaster or coffee pot at some point then it won't be enough, but as long as your aware of this that cool.