Did Keystone use a certain waste valve

[taboky]

I have a 2014 Sprinter 5th wheel that has a leak in black valve. Wanted to order the seal kit before tearing into underbelly, but found that there could be a few different brands of valve up there. Did Keystone use a specific valve? Or do I need to tear into it first.

Thanks for any info,

Steve

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by taboky

I have a 2014 Sprinter 5th wheel that has a leak in black valve. Wanted to order the seal kit before tearing into underbelly, but found that there could be a few different brands of valve up there. Did Keystone use a specific valve? Or do I need to tear into it first.

Thanks for any info,

Steve

Before you tear into it, how many bends & how much piping is between the valve & the termination connection? If several bends or a couple feet piping you could get as much as a quart of liquid when removing the cap & replacing seals won't stop that.
I always connect the hose to the sewer outlet 1st then hold the open end of the hose under the cap (see cap below) to catch what runs out.

Replace the cap with one of these so you can open the small cap 1st to easily catch what's left in the piping.
If you get a non stop flow then you may need seals or a good tank flush to wash out what may be stuck in the valve.

[chuckster57]

If I remember right Keystone liked Bristol. BUT you cant tell one trailer to the next because it depends on Availability. If your going to just order seals then I would suggest:

Valterra BladeX- can be used in any VALTERRA valve 3"

Bristol- can only be used in BRISTOL valves. 3"

That means you order 2 seal sets and odds are your covered. Speaking of which make sure your face and hands are COVERED when you take that valve apart....ask me how I know

[taboky]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Before you tear into it, how many bends & how much piping is between the valve & the termination connection? If several bends or a couple feet piping you could get as much as a quart of liquid when removing the cap & replacing seals won't stop that.
I always connect the hose to the sewer outlet 1st then hold the open end of the hose under the cap (see cap below) to catch what runs out.
Attachment 35483
Replace the cap with one of these so you can open the small cap 1st to easily catch what's left in the piping.
If you get a non stop flow then you may need seals or a good tank flush to wash out what may be stuck in the valve.

Wish it was that easy. I went to dump and nothing came out. Threw the flush valve on and sounded empty. After about a minute, stuff started coming out. Fluid leaked out. Luckily, I was able to run flush and fill tank a few times, so it is clean, but can still see water slowly leak out after valve shut for an hour.

[taboky]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If I remember right Keystone liked Bristol. BUT you cant tell one trailer to the next because it depends on Availability. If your going to just order seals then I would suggest:

Valterra BladeX- can be used in any VALTERRA valve 3"

Bristol- can only be used in BRISTOL valves. 3"

That means you order 2 seal sets and odds are your covered. Speaking of which make sure your face and hands are COVERED when you take that valve apart....ask me how I know

Thanks. I am happy ordering only 2 sets. My tank is running clear water right now, and I have it open so everything should be dry when I get to it. I DO know what can happen though, and will be dressed for it

[chuckster57]

If your black tank valve is open, I wouldn’t add any “solids” as they will stick to the tank and cause a pyramid you’ll have to deal with.

[taboky]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If your black tank valve is open, I wouldn’t add any “solids” as they will stick to the tank and cause a pyramid you’ll have to deal with.

Definitely not. It is all empty and drying. Waiting for the seals to come in (no one carries them locally, why?) and will tackle it then. We have mice problems here so didn't want to rip open underbelly without doing complete job so I can seal everything up good.

Thanks

[taboky]

Finally got to RV. unscrewed enough to see where valve was and cut opening. Surprisingly, the underside was clean. No mice droppings. Also, didn't see any insulation. Thought there would be some there. Got valve out, and there was stuff stuck in the slot. Cleaned it up and figured I was here, so replace the seals. Nowhere on the valve does it state brand. Luckily, was able to match numbers from old seal to new seal. They were Bristol. Put all back together, no leaks.

Thanks for all the help,

Steve

[BDove]

Whose waste valves were used in 2021?

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by BDove

Whose waste valves were used in 2021?

It's not a year to year thing, it's a week to week thing. If their preferred supplier can't ship, they'll use a different model and try again when they run out

[Dave W]

Look on the pull handle. Valterra (on ours) has its name stamped on it. Yes, it IS hard to see

Interchangeability - was told on the Montana Owner's forum that a Valterra will directly interchange with a Bristol. Couldn't prove that true as the OE's are already Valterra

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Dave W

Look on the pull handle. Valterra (on ours) has its name stamped on it. Yes, it IS hard to see

Interchangeability - was told on the Montana Owner's forum that a Valterra will directly interchange with a Bristol. Couldn't prove that true as the OE's are already Valterra

I can tell you from personal experience ( I am an RV tech) that Bristol and valterra valve flanges are different and I haven’t seen it work.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I can tell you from personal experience ( I am an RV tech) that Bristol and valterra valve flanges are different and I haven’t seen it work.

Like I said above - the MOC forum members advised me that they interchanged. Guess that those learned folks might be wrong.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by Dave W

Look on the pull handle. Valterra (on ours) has its name stamped on it. Yes, it IS hard to see

I'm sorry, I had to chuckle at this observation.

My valve is not a Valterra but it says Valterra on the handle. Why? Because Valterra makes the pull handles the RV store sells to replace the OEM pull handles that constantly unscrew and fall off while you're going down the highway!

[chuckster57]

Lasalle/Bristol cable actuated valves use a screw to secure the T handle, Valterra T handles are threaded.

[Dave W]

I did a bit more research on whether Valterra can be a direct replacement for a LaSalle Bristol. Yes, they can be and can also directly replace other brands as well . This was confirmed via several RV on line stores and most importantly, by a Valterra Customer Service rep, a caopy and paste below. The only thing that I found different was that a comment was made on one forum that a Bristol valve is a little thinner and the plumbing flanges might need to be spread a bit to get the Valterra in place.

Hi D***, yes, our standard manual 3” valve will replace the LaSalle Bristol 3” standard manual valve. The bolt pattern is the same.

Belinda Garcia
Customer Service
Valterra Products, LLC


From: W W**** <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 8, 2021 3:12 PM
To: valterra@ Valterra <[email protected]>
Subject: Contact Form from Website

Name
D. W****

Email
***************.net

Phone
(518) 2**-4***

How can we help?

Can the 3" Valterra waste valves replace OE LaSalle Bristol valve?

Thanks

[chuckster57]

If you read my response, you’ll see I was talking about the seals.

[Dave W]

Your response has NOTHING that I can see to do with seals and what I said about valve interchangeability. My response was stictly about a valve change out - not seals. Different manufacturers and parts compatibility .... ???

"I can tell you from personal experience ( I am an RV tech) that Bristol and valterra valve flanges are different and I haven’t seen it work

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If I remember right Keystone liked Bristol. BUT you cant tell one trailer to the next because it depends on Availability. If your going to just order seals then I would suggest:

Valterra BladeX- can be used in any VALTERRA valve 3"

Bristol- can only be used in BRISTOL valves. 3"

That means you order 2 seal sets and odds are your covered. Speaking of which make sure your face and hands are COVERED when you take that valve apart....ask me how I know

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If you read my response, you’ll see I was talking about the seals.

Originally Posted by Dave W

Your response has NOTHING that I can see to do with seals and what I said about valve interchangeability. My response was stictly about a valve change out - not seals. Different manufacturers and parts compatibility .... ???

"I can tell you from personal experience ( I am an RV tech) that Bristol and valterra valve flanges are different and I haven’t seen it work

Dave W,

Chuck's response has EVERYTHING to do with seals !!!!!

The valve bodies are interchangeable. What Chuck said about the "VALVE SEALS" is correct. They are not "interchangeable both ways"....

You can change out the entire valve body and use any brand to replace any brand (assuming you can get the handle to connect from the valve body to the handle pull mount)... That said, you CAN NOT INTERCHANGE ANY VALVE SEAL FOR ANY VALVE SEAL..... That is what Chuck stated in his post above. He didn't say anything about replacing the valve body in that post..... Bottom line, as he stated, some valve seals are not interchangeable. It should be understood by most, that if you're changing the entire valve body, they all have the same "bolt pattern" and are interchangeable.

In short, "Valves can be interchanged, some valve seal kits can not"..... Seems pretty simple to me...

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Dave W,

Chuck's response has EVERYTHING to do with seals !!!!!

The valve bodies are interchangeable. What Chuck said about the "VALVE SEALS" is correct. They are not "interchangeable both ways"....

You can change out the entire valve body and use any brand to replace any brand (assuming you can get the handle to connect from the valve body to the handle pull mount)... That said, you CAN NOT INTERCHANGE ANY VALVE SEAL FOR ANY VALVE SEAL..... That is what Chuck stated in his post above. He didn't say anything about replacing the valve body in that post..... Bottom line, as he stated, some valve seals are not interchangeable. It should be understood by most, that if you're changing the entire valve body, they all have the same "bolt pattern" and are interchangeable.

In short, "Valves can be interchanged, some valve seal kits can not"..... Seems pretty simple to me...

It has ALREADY been well clarified so why the added post?