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Old 05-02-2021, 12:58 PM   #1
B3Dcampers
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Anyone live in high humidity area?

Does anyone who lives in an area that has high humidity, have any issues with mold growing on your cabinet doors (outside) when you store your rv? We store our rv in a metal building on a concrete slab. I keep the vents closed on our rv.
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Old 05-02-2021, 01:06 PM   #2
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From south Georgia here. Have only had my TT since Oct 2020, but I always keep a Damp Rid in my TT. So far have had no issues with moisture.
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Old 05-02-2021, 03:16 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by B3Dcampers View Post
Does anyone who lives in an area that has high humidity, have any issues with mold growing on your cabinet doors (outside) when you store your rv? We store our rv in a metal building on a concrete slab. I keep the vents closed on our rv.
Are you saying that the mold is growing on the hatch doors that are on the OUTSIDE of the trailer or that the mold is growing on the outside surfaces of the cabinet doors on the INSIDE of the trailer?
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Old 05-02-2021, 03:31 PM   #4
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I'd guess I have a little more humidity than you. We're about 12 miles from Galveston/Trinity Bay and 30+ miles from the beach. Our 5th sits outside with no shelter except tree shade in the very late afternoon. I've never seen any mold on the inside or outside.
But the Bigfoot cabover stays under a camper cover and I get a bit of mildew on it. Usually washes off easily.
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Old 05-02-2021, 03:53 PM   #5
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Mold is getting on the cabinet doors inside the rv. The temp in rv on Friday was 80 and I had some spots of mold on the doors.
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Old 05-02-2021, 04:03 PM   #6
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I'd start by opening the roof vents (since the trailer is inside a building). Also open (very slightly) a window in each major part of the RV. That will set up some air circulation inside the RV. If that doesn't work, then consider a dehumidifier. There are "bucket air dryer crystals" that you throw away when they're saturated and electric dehumidifiers that can be set up to drain into the gray tank on the trailer.... If you have power on the trailer, you can always set one of the air conditioners to run on low and set at 78F or around that temperature. You'll have to experiment with your storage conditions to see what's most effective. That will help dry the air in the rooftop spaces as well as dehumidify the interior of the trailer.
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Old 05-02-2021, 04:14 PM   #7
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We have lived in north Florida forever and now SW Georgia and the humidity is outrageous throughout most of the year. We have always left the RV plugged in with the A/C set around 80 and have had no issues.
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Old 05-02-2021, 04:29 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by B3Dcampers View Post
Does anyone who lives in an area that has high humidity, have any issues with mold growing on your cabinet doors (outside) when you store your rv? We store our rv in a metal building on a concrete slab. I keep the vents closed on our rv.
Looking back at your first post, is the metal building the trailer is in "closed up" ?? If it is, then chances are the humidity is coming from the building "sweating" and never drying out. If there's no positive ventilation in the building, you might want to open a window and make sure the soffit or gable vents are open and working so you have some cross ventilation through the building.

We store our trailer in a pole barn with no windows. If we leave it "closed up for a week or two" then the roof of the trailer will have water standing on it when we drag the trailer out of the building... It's from the condensation forming on the underside of the building roof during the cool evenings and "raining onto the trailer" all night long.... Might be a part of your issue as well....
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Old 05-02-2021, 04:34 PM   #9
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My TT is 50 amp. How do I run the A/C when it's plugged into my house exterior outlet? Unless maybe the smaller of the two A/Cs will run on the 30 amp?
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Old 05-02-2021, 04:39 PM   #10
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My TT is 50 amp. How do I run the A/C when it's plugged into my house exterior outlet? Unless maybe the smaller of the two A/Cs will run on the 30 amp?
If your outlet is 30 amps, then you can run one A/C at a time in the trailer. Just take your pick which one you want to start with and then weekly, shut it down, start the other one so you "equalize the wear" on both units. That last part is the "OCD coming out" more than an actual requirement for running air conditioners....

Just remember, you can't run both A/C's, the water heater, the refrigerator... You'll need to manage your load to keep it under the 30 amps, but remember also that every 30 amp trailer in existence that has an air conditioner functions "just fine on 30 amp power"..... You'll be fine with running one also.
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Old 05-02-2021, 05:20 PM   #11
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My TT is 50 amp. How do I run the A/C when it's plugged into my house exterior outlet? Unless maybe the smaller of the two A/Cs will run on the 30 amp?
Can you clarify this? A standard "house exterior outlet" is a 15 amp GFCI outlet. Did you have a 30 amp RV outlet installed at your house?
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Old 05-02-2021, 05:49 PM   #12
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I would caution about using a regular "home" outlet (15/20A), plugging in the RV and just letting it run, particularly with a 15k AC.

I have always used a 12ga. extension cord from my 20A outlets in BBQ central to run the trailer; previously with 13.5ACs. Only used when getting the trailer ready to go; sometimes when it was cool, sometimes when it was hot. When hot we would power up the main 13.5 AC.

Bought the new trailer with a 15k main AC (same res plug). After a short period of time I found that the receptacle was melting. Same extension cord used for several years, same outlet; different AC. Said "this don't work" and had a 50A RV outlet installed out by where I keep the RV when I come in.

Just keep those things in mind when trying to use res plugs and running an RV.
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Old 05-03-2021, 01:17 AM   #13
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I live in North Central Florida and the humidity is real bad. We have a open sided pole barn that we keep our 5ver in. Years ago we had mold issues especially if we were not traveling with it frequently we started running a dehumidifier and hook a short drain hose up to it and let it drain into the kitchen sink. I hook a regular water hose up to the outside drain, open the galley drain valve and let it drain on to the ground. It is a lot cheaper and does as good of a job as running the A/C
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Old 05-03-2021, 06:51 AM   #14
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We had a park trailer and a home on the SW Washington coast. Home had a 24/7 whole home vent and exhaust running. That worked.
On the 40ft park model the vents had to be left open 24/7. I had the rain covers on them and they work. Will still got mold during the winter months until I placed 3 of those cheap Dry Z Airs in it. A real dehumidifier would work better.
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Old 05-03-2021, 12:54 PM   #15
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I live in Louisiana. I keep my rig buttoned up and use Damp-Rid and it works fine. Keeps everything mold-free.
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Old 05-03-2021, 03:25 PM   #16
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Can you clarify this? A standard "house exterior outlet" is a 15 amp GFCI outlet. Did you have a 30 amp RV outlet installed at your house?
My error. The house outlet is 15 amp. I'll just keep the Damp Rid in my TT.
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Old 05-05-2021, 05:59 AM   #17
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Thanks to everyone who replied. I have ordered a dehumidifier, I figured that is more cost effective than buying disposable products. I appreciate this forum so much, everyone is so helpful.
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Old 05-05-2021, 08:17 AM   #18
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Thanks to everyone who replied. I have ordered a dehumidifier, I figured that is more cost effective than buying disposable products. I appreciate this forum so much, everyone is so helpful.

I have had excellent results with dehumidifiers and we don't travel without one if heading to humid areas.

A couple of things (I'm sorry I didn't chime in before); get a compressor dehumidifier for sure. The other types are much lighter but do far less in the removal of water. Our larger one is 35 pint and the smaller is 11 pint. They remove a LOT of water from the air. The bigger the unit, the more water it pulls out until it reaches the humidity level you set.

If it's really wet and you are going to leave it unattended think about putting a drain hose on it so it won't fill up and shut off while you aren't around. They can fill up quickly. Both of our will fill up overnite when it's humid and stop requiring us to dump first thing when we get up.

They can make some noise if opting for the compressor style. We don't care because we love what they do. The other type is much quieter but that's because it's not doing anything. We left one of those on overnite and we got a drop, literally a drop, of water. It's in the barn somewhere.

Sorry for the tardiness of this response but hopefully the unit you get will resolve your problems.
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Old 05-05-2021, 08:51 AM   #19
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Thanks to everyone who replied. I have ordered a dehumidifier, I figured that is more cost effective than buying disposable products. I appreciate this forum so much, everyone is so helpful.
Good decision.
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:15 AM   #20
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Does anyone who lives in an area that has high humidity, have any issues with mold growing on your cabinet doors (outside) when you store your rv? We store our rv in a metal building on a concrete slab. I keep the vents closed on our rv.
Open the vents and insure you have air movement. We use a vinegar and distilled water mix — half and half — to spray surfaces. That works in North Carolina and Florida. Dehumidifiers with external water removal helps if you can set one up.
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