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Old 08-19-2015, 08:07 PM   #21
cant_remember_ID
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Originally Posted by KSH View Post
Which one do you have, and how much are you asking?

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It is the standard 3P with the 1400lb bars. I was thinking about $1500. I'll have it off the trailer this weekend, I'll take some pictures. It's in great shape.
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:57 PM   #22
Smiggleburger
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I would go with the Propride. They are both excellent hitches, the PP wins when it comes to adjustable shank etc. I am tired of paying almost $100 to get my "free" hitch bar replacement, every time I upgrade my vehicle or upgrade trailers. I was somewhat forced into a Hensley because I needed one quick and PP was back logged. If I had to do it all over again, I would wait for the ProPride.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:25 AM   #23
KSH
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I bought the PP, have yet to install it though.

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Old 10-13-2015, 07:11 AM   #24
KSH
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Installed the pro pride hitch over the weekend, took almost a whole day. Sean at pro pride was great, I texted him pictures and called him a number of times. I haven't road tested it yet, just took it to storage.
Anyone using this hitch with the air ride suspension? I had a tough time un hitching. I had to chock the wheels and really hit the gas, when the stinger pooped out the truck jumped up a foot or so in the rear due to the air suspension. It was creating a bind and wouldn't come out smoothly.I need some direction on the proper way to hitch and unhitch.

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Old 10-13-2015, 09:55 AM   #25
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...........................Anyone using this hitch with the air ride suspension? I had a tough time un hitching. I had to chock the wheels and really hit the gas, when the stinger pooped out the truck jumped up a foot or so in the rear due to the air suspension. It was creating a bind and wouldn't come out smoothly.I need some direction on the proper way to hitch and unhitch.

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I am not familiar with the air ride suspension, but if you are able to dump the air before the hitching and un-hitching process, it would help.

To help prevent binding, spray the tapered opening in the hitch head with silicone lubricant.

As for hitching, to make it easier you need to unhitch properly. When un-hitching this works best for me:

* chock the front of the TT tires (I do all four with large rubber chocks)
* dump the air from your air bags to 5 to 10 lbs, but be consistent each time
* loosen the WD bar jacks until the WD bars are free to rotate
* jack up the tongue jack until there is vertical movement between ball and the TT coupler. This is the key to making it work every time you unhitch. The easiest way to detect the movement is to place a couple of fingers just under the lip of the coupler and against the side of the ball. When the weight comes off the ball, you will detect about 1/8" of movement with your fingers and you should stop raising the tongue jack at that point.
* disconnect all cables, chains and over center levers
* drive forward
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:23 PM   #26
Goingfor9
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Dump the air before unhitching was a big key for me. Also lubricant is a must. Makes unhitching much easier. Also you can leave your electric hooked up and manual use your trailer brakes to help unhitching. But I think you will notice a big Differance in unhitching with lubricant. Also you tube pro pride hitch. Watch busch2fan videos and it might help with both hitching and unhitching.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:38 PM   #27
KSH
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I can't dump the air, it's a closed nitrogen system. Maybe I need to put the suspension in entry mode to drop it down, but I'm not sure it will do that if it senses the load. I'll play with it over the weekend.

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Old 10-22-2015, 10:00 PM   #28
KSH
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Hit the scales in the dead of night, turns out the one 15 minutes from my house is open 24/7

Weights last time:
Everything separate:
Truck front axel 3,500
Truck rear axel 2,720
Trailer weight - 6,180 (dry)

Hooked up last time (before wdh)
Front 3,120
Rear 4,020
Trailer axel 5,260

Hooked up today with wdh bars cranked up 9 3/4
Front 3,440
Rear 3,540
Trailer 5,640

I think perhaps I was in the cab when I weighed it originally, this time I was out adjusting the bars. Maybe I cranked then up to high?

It certainly was not bouncy at all on the way back home, perhaps a little too stiff? Or is that good?

Trailer is pretty nose high. Maybe I should crank it down a little?

Is the weight transfer per inch of movement on the wdh consistent across the range? Is a quarter inch always x lbs?
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Old 10-24-2015, 04:55 PM   #29
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Looks like you were able to load the front axle close to the unhitched value so that is good.

A couple of things you may want to adjust:
* drop the shank on the receiver end so the trailer is not nose high
* add washers to the receiver to tilt the weight distribution bars down so you do not have to go 9 3/4" on the WD jacks. Most users of the Propride are only lifting about 6 inches. I know the instructions say to have the receiver's bar horizontal, but I like to have the end furthest from the TV tilted down a bit so the WD bars are pointing down before being loaded by the jacks.
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2018 Jayco Eagle HT 265BHS (previous: 2015 23RB Passport Elite, ProPride)
2015 F250 XLT SB Crew, 6.2l gas
PullRite 16K SuperGlide w/SuperRail
Reese 5th Airborne (bagged) Pin Box
RoadMaster Shock Kit
X-Factor Cross Bracing
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Old 10-25-2015, 10:08 AM   #30
KSH
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I dropped the shank one hole at the camp ground, will see how it looks when I hook up later today

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Old 11-01-2015, 11:12 PM   #31
KSH
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Dropping the shank made it more level, still fighting the air suspension when I disconnect the trailer..

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Old 11-02-2015, 03:52 AM   #32
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Dropping the shank made it more level, still fighting the air suspension when I disconnect the trailer..

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I read on the airstream forum that you can turn off your air suspension with a menu selection. Check your owner's manual or go to the airstream forum for some feedback from other users with similar setups.
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2018 Jayco Eagle HT 265BHS (previous: 2015 23RB Passport Elite, ProPride)
2015 F250 XLT SB Crew, 6.2l gas
PullRite 16K SuperGlide w/SuperRail
Reese 5th Airborne (bagged) Pin Box
RoadMaster Shock Kit
X-Factor Cross Bracing
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Old 11-02-2015, 07:34 AM   #33
KSH
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You can put it in tire jack mode, but that doesn't help with disconnecting since it's already pressurized. I put it in your jack mode and then told it to drop to entry exit mode, but that still doesn't really have it de-pressurized all the way..
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Old 02-18-2016, 01:07 PM   #34
toraines
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Used Pro-Pride 3P Hitch

If any of you on here are looking for a used Pro Pride Hitch and live close to the Greenville, SC area, I have one available. I am upgrading to a fifth wheel so I do not need anymore. The hitch is everything it is suppose to be. No sway and towing my Keystone Outback 312bh turned into a great great experience instead of a white knuckle experience.

Shoot me a message if interested.

Tyler
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