Battery care through winter???

[derowe82]

Good morning all. I was just curious as to what is the proper way to care for a TT battery through the winter?


Do I need to trickle charge it, or am I good to just put in my basement and leave it? Will is continue to lose juice like that?


Thanks

[Bustinbeards]

Yes, trickle charge it but keep an eye on the acid add distilled water as needed. In my experience A battery will go dead after a few months just sitting unless charged.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by Bustinbeards

Yes, trickle charge it but keep an eye on the acid add distilled water as needed. In my experience A battery will go dead after a few months just sitting unless charged.

Okay thanks. The battery on the front of my "new to me" RV is toast. Need to replace but didn't want to ruin another over winter.

[markcee]

Since you are replacing, ensure you get a true deep cycle battery. Typical dealer provided batteries are not....this includes those listed as 'RV' and/or 'RV/Marine'. Rule of thumb - avoid anything that lists cold cranking amps (CCA) in the specs.

On another note, if you purchase an AGM (absorbent glass mat) deep cycle battery, there will be no need to check water levels as they are maintenance free. In addition, (at least with mine) there is no need to keep it on a trickle charge all off-season. Per my manual I can put it on a maintenance charge every 2 months.

Here is the one I purchased several months ago.

No issues with this one so far, but I'm sure there are many others just like it. Do some looking on Amazon.

Final note - keep in mind that if you bump up in group size, you may need a larger battery box. My standard issue battery was a group 24. The one linked above is a group 31. I needed a larger box, and I needed a longer + cable in order to reach the slightly new position of the box/battery. My OEM + was sized just long enough to reach the original setup.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by markcee

Since you are replacing, ensure you get a true deep cycle battery. Typical dealer provided batteries are not....this includes those listed as 'RV' and/or 'RV/Marine'. Rule of thumb - avoid anything that lists cold cranking amps (CCA) in the specs.

On another note, if you purchase an AGM (absorbent glass mat) deep cycle battery, there will be no need to check water levels as they are maintenance free. In addition, (at least with mine) there is no need to keep it on a trickle charge all off-season. Per my manual I can put it on a maintenance charge every 2 months.

Here is the one I purchased several months ago.

No issues with this one so far, but I'm sure there are many others just like it. Do some looking on Amazon.

Final note - keep in mind that if you bump up in group size, you may need a larger battery box. My standard issue battery was a group 24. The one linked above is a group 31. I needed a larger box, and I needed a longer + cable in order to reach the slightly new position of the box/battery. My OEM + was sized just long enough to reach the original setup.

Thanks for the reply. I am gonna say that 99% of the time, I will be plugged into shore power, therefore I am not sure a $200+ battery is in the cards for me at the moment. I will definitely look into it in the future though. Might have to go the "RV(Not really for RV's) battery.



Thanks

[markcee]

Originally Posted by derowe82

Thanks for the reply. I am gonna say that 99% of the time, I will be plugged into shore power, therefore I am not sure a $200+ battery is in the cards for me at the moment. I will definitely look into it in the future though. Might have to go the "RV(Not really for RV's) battery.



Thanks

Same here....and my standard issue group 24 RV/marine battery lasted 18 months before it wouldn't hold a charge....and that was with it being connected to a battery tender when not in use. Maybe just bad luck for me.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by markcee

Same here....and my standard issue group 24 RV/marine battery lasted 18 months before it wouldn't hold a charge....and that was with it being connected to a battery tender when not in use. Maybe just bad luck for me.

I understand where you are coming from. I have read in a few places that a battery with a CCA rating of any sort is not for RV's, and I get it. I't just at this point, my pocket book is low, and I can replace my current battery with the same style for around $100. I will save my penny's for a true RV battery for next time.


I do appreciate you responses though, and I will use you link down the road to purchase another. You mentioned you purchased it a few months back. Curious where you will be in another 15 months from now with that battery???


Thanks again!!

[flybouy]

If a flooded cell battery is used/maintained properly it should last at least 3 years and likely several years past that. So what does proper use &,maintenance mean? That's really simple.

Proper use? Don't discharge it below 50% capacity.

Proper maintenane? Keep the battery fully charged when not in use. For long term storage, I prefer to remove it and store it in my garage and use a quality battery maintainer with a de-suffering circuit.
Keep the electrolyte level correct and use distilled water only.

Maintain the battery cable connections and remove any corrosion at the first sign of discoloration. Corroded connections add resistance to the load and the charging circuit. Finally, keep the battery clean. Accumulations of dirt on the case can hold moisture. Dirt and moisture can carry electricity from the positive to the negative battery terminals.

[wegone]

I leave my trailer plugged in to shore power with everything off except one tip over electric heater when the forecast is for freezing, so my batteries stay charged as they should.

Also, if you remove your batteries to a remote place, never sit them on concrete or the earth, as that will affect them, I am told.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by flybouy

If a flooded cell battery is used/maintained properly it should last at least 3 years and likely several years past that. So what does proper use &,maintenance mean? That's really simple.

Proper use? Don't discharge it below 50% capacity.

Proper maintenane? Keep the battery fully charged when not in use. For long term storage, I prefer to remove it and store it in my garage and use a quality battery maintainer with a de-suffering circuit.
Keep the electrolyte level correct and use distilled water only.

Maintain the battery cable connections and remove any corrosion at the first sign of discoloration. Corroded connections add resistance to the load and the charging circuit. Finally, keep the battery clean. Accumulations of dirt on the case can hold moisture. Dirt and moisture can carry electricity from the positive to the negative battery terminals.

Thanks! Good reply.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Island Eddie

I leave my trailer plugged in to shore power with everything off except one tip over electric heater when the forecast is for freezing, so my batteries stay charged as they should.

Also, if you remove your batteries to a remote place, never sit them on concrete or the earth, as that will affect them, I am told.

The "don't store on concrete or it will discharge the battery" is a myth that's been carried around for a century. Every since battery manufacturers started building battery cases out of plastic and rubber compounds. It is a good idea to store and charge a battery on a pice of scrap wood for 2 reasons. First as a thermal insulator and secondly to keep vapors or electrolyte spillage from eating the concrete and any floor covering.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by flybouy

The "don't store on concrete or it will discharge the battery" is a myth that's been carried around for a century. Every since battery manufacturers started building battery cases out of plastic and rubber compounds. It is a good idea to store and charge a battery on a pice of scrap wood for 2 reasons. First as a thermal insulator and secondly to keep vapors or electrolyte spillage from eating the concrete and any floor covering.

Thanks for the reply. Appreciate it.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by derowe82

I understand where you are coming from. I have read in a few places that a battery with a CCA rating of any sort is not for RV's, and I get it. I't just at this point, my pocket book is low, and I can replace my current battery with the same style for around $100. I will save my penny's for a true RV battery for next time.


I do appreciate you responses though, and I will use you link down the road to purchase another. You mentioned you purchased it a few months back. Curious where you will be in another 15 months from now with that battery???


Thanks again!!

I have run only Group 24 batteries for years but I don't boondock. They will last years if you stay up with the maintenance and keep them charged; my trailer is plugged in all the time either in use or in storage. Watching the battery water level is critical. Also if you let them deplete, go completely dead, I just replace them. You don't have to but it damages them significantly.

Back when I boondocked I only used Grp 24s as well but I carried a 7500watt generator. In nice weather (shoulder seasons) I could go 3 days without using the gen and not have issues but I watched what we used. So you can get by with the Grp 24 if you camp in campgrounds with power. When you rely 100% on the batteries is when you need the big amp hours. If you camp without power very much I would look into 2 grp 24 batteries vs one.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I have run only Group 24 batteries for years but I don't boondock. They will last years if you stay up with the maintenance and keep them charged; my trailer is plugged in all the time either in use or in storage. Watching the battery water level is critical. Also if you let them deplete, go completely dead, I just replace them. You don't have to but it damages them significantly.



Back when I boondocked I only used Grp 24s as well but I carried a 7500watt generator. In nice weather (shoulder seasons) I could go 3 days without using the gen and not have issues but I watched what we used. So you can get by with the Grp 24 if you camp in campgrounds with power. When you rely 100% on the batteries is when you need the big amp hours. If you camp without power very much I would look into 2 grp 24 batteries vs one.

Thanks sourdough. I purchased a Group 24 battery and will roll with it for now.

Thanks for the reply.