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Old 09-24-2019, 06:46 AM   #21
tech740
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I was so against doing it the old school way. Then I used the EZ lube. Man was it convenient. Then I had 2 brakes out of 4 that worked. Then I pulled it apart had to bad seals. After 4 new brake assemblies all new bearings and seals. I will NEVER do that again. The old way worked for many many years.
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:56 AM   #22
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“Old School Way”.... lets see... when I was 12 my Dad taught me how to repack wheel bearings... a gob of grease in palm of hand dragging edge of bearing against grease in palm of hand till grease starts to come out the other edge...work it entire 360 degrees of bearing edge

53 years later this is still how I do tapered bearings... Old school... naw... it’s just the right way and always will be with tapered bearings
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Old 09-25-2019, 06:35 AM   #23
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“Old School Way”.... lets see... when I was 12 my Dad taught me how to repack wheel bearings... a gob of grease in palm of hand dragging edge of bearing against grease in palm of hand till grease starts to come out the other edge...work it entire 360 degrees of bearing edge

53 years later this is still how I do tapered bearings... Old school... naw... it’s just the right way and always will be with tapered bearings
I was about the same age that my father taught me that lesson. He also taught me a valuable lesson about greasing universal joints. For you younger lads yes they were not disposable back then. The joint had a zerk fitting so I grabbed the grease gun. That was another lesson in "the path of least resistance". He let me use the grease gun, then we removed the u-joint. One cup resisted the grease.
One of my happiest memories of him was seeing how proud he looked setting in his wheelchair watching me work on my truck. I thanked him for the life lessons that day and every day since his passing in 2001.
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Old 09-26-2019, 06:10 AM   #24
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Flyboy yes our Dads had to learn to do it all...with little to no money...They taught us both many valuable lifelong lessons...

And don’t you just love the new “permanent sealed” front end components on many late model autos... Thankfully my GMC and wife’s Jeep have “old school” zero fittings on tie rods, ball joints, idler and pitman arms, etc...

I do however like the front sealed wheel bearings...But.. I’ve had two fail on left front and 1 fail on track front of my GMC...

And yes.. I too have greased many drive line U joints..
Gotta love it if you get careless and the tiny roller bearings come out...
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Old 09-26-2019, 06:36 AM   #25
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Ah..Ujoints. If I have to take it apart to grease it, it needs to be replaced. Sealed front hubs: love the money I make changing them. I do have a shop press so I can do just the bearings, sometimes that single part and my labor is cheaper than a new hub.
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Old 09-26-2019, 06:53 AM   #26
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Getting a bit off track but .... had dodge Omni (was a re-badged VW) back in the early 1980's. Right front wheel bearing went bad 3 times. It was a "dual race, split inner race" sealed bearing. I thought it was my fault in how I pressed it on. So I was setting in the dentist waiting room reading a Popular Mechanics. There was a Q&A repair section where someone asked about the problem that I was experiencing. The answer, check the body ground strap connection. The braided ground strap would fail so the ground would circuit thru the wheel bearing causing the bearing balls to arc and pit. I checked and that was the issue. No more issues for the 100K miles after that.
So the point is not to overlook (or assume) that any preventive maintenance is unnecessary.
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Old 09-29-2019, 08:39 AM   #27
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If raising each wheel one at a time to hand pack, say on a triple axle RV with an 18k gross, about what weight would I have to lift with my floor jack to clear the tire off the concrete?

I have a 3-1/2T roller floor jack, but now wondering how much it would have to lift.

Thanks and sorry for hijacking this thread.
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Old 09-29-2019, 12:40 PM   #28
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His explanation is a boat load of BS!!!!
Someone somewhere, probably your last annual visit, used the EZ lube bearing grease zerks on the spindle to "pack" your bearings & also packed your brake drums full of grease. If they charged you $600 last time & did it this way you got royally shafted, they didn't remove any wheels to do this so therefore didn't inspect any brakes.
Next time I'd either learn to do it yourself or find a different shop that won't blow smoke up your a## to cover up their mistake.
If you've only traveled 1000 miles in 2 years you won't need this done again for several years if you're don't plan on any more use the next couple years. This provided the shop doing your work actually does what they're charging you for this time.....
Mine was full of grease from day one. Don't know what happened, but When I picked up our 3820FK from CW brand new, I complained that the braking was not what I would have expected and can't lock up the wheels. They told me since it was a larger 5er than my last one, I'll get used to it. Well, two years later, I took it in for a bearing repack at a trusted shop, not CW, and they found grease all over the back plates and brake shoes. They changed all new back plates, and brake components. Guess what - something amazing happened. My brakes will actually lock up now and work like you would expect. Whatever was wrong was original equipment.
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Old 09-29-2019, 01:05 PM   #29
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Just reading another forum a fellow gives each wheel 4-5 pumps of grease through the EZ lube every time he pulls the RV??? What do you guys think the odds are that all 4 aren't full of grease??? I'd say a million to one that they are all 4 completely full & has no trailer braking!!! If not, he is one lucky SOB!
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Old 09-30-2019, 02:54 PM   #30
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Wheel bearing seals

I replaced the electric drums on our Keystone Cougar 331MKS with electric over hydraulic disks. The factory drum brake cartridges were also full of grease when I tore them down. Like many others, I used the zerk fittings to add grease to the bearings.

The disk brakes are very easy to tear down to service the pads and bearings. The rear seals are visible from the back of the disks and much less likely to contaminate the pads if the seal should fail. Replacement pads are available at most any parts store. I replaced the bearing and race assemblies with Timken bearings and packed with Mystik JT-6. We ran over 4000 miles on them this summer.

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Old 06-16-2021, 07:52 PM   #31
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Backing Plates with shoes attached as unit $70.00 ea maybe...Seals 8.00-10.00 ea. Labor shouldn't be more than 2.0 hrs.
I'm with the rest sounds like horse **** to me. I had a tire and
automotive shop for 35 yrs I've seen some real **** stories and testified
in 2 against shop owners for deceptive practice. Goes on a lot more
than most think...Its a lot easier to make it the honest way....
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Old 06-16-2021, 07:55 PM   #32
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I'd use a 20 ton post jack and a jack stand
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Old 06-17-2021, 08:49 AM   #33
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I'd use a 20 ton post jack and a jack stand
Although this thread is almost 2 years old, i used the 20 ton and jack stands recently to replace factory adjustable brakes with self adjusting, and replaced double lip seals.
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