Need help

Scar_ · 11-22-2022, 10:55 AM

Hey everyone! We recently purchased our first RV (2022 Hideout 26BHWE) and have started running into issues. Our lights dim and the furnace won't kick on consistently. We have been plugged in to shore power of some sort the entire time we've had the trailer so far. The issue only seems to happen at night/evenings. I don't get what could be the issue if everything's new and has been plugged in the whole time. I'm very new to this and have a healthy respect (ignorance) when it comes to electrical issues, so be gentile and speak as if I am a child when it comes to that subject lol. Any help is greatly appreciated!!

-Scar

wiredgeorge · 11-22-2022, 11:09 AM

Sometimes a dealer will install a second rate battery in new campers. Suggest you take the battery to an auto parts store for a load test. If the battery isn't the culprit, we will have to move on from there.

**chuckster57** · 11-22-2022, 12:12 PM

Is your trailer 30 amp ( three prong) or 50 amp ( four prong)? And are you plugged into a 30 or 50 amp pedestal?

Scar_ · 11-22-2022, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Is your trailer 30 amp ( three prong) or 50 amp ( four prong)? And are you plugged into a 30 or 50 amp pedestal?

It's a 30 amp trailer, and we are (currently) plugged into 30 amp service.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Sometimes a dealer will install a second rate battery in new campers. Suggest you take the battery to an auto parts store for a load test. If the battery isn't the culprit, we will have to move on from there.

If I can get away from work before this rain hits, I can do that today, thank you. If by chance, the batteries are okay, what's the next thing down the line to consider?

**chuckster57** · 11-22-2022, 12:29 PM

If you have 2 batteries are they a pair of 12V or 6V?

If they are 12V hooked up in parallel, battery A positive to battery b positive and battery a negative to battery b negative, then check the trailer leads.

One should be on battery a and the other should be on battery b, just be sure to put the positive trailer lead on one of the positive posts and the negative lead on the negative post of the other battery.

Scar_ · 11-22-2022, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If you have 2 batteries are they a pair of 12V or 6V?

I believe that they are a pair of 12v, but I will verify that after work in about an hour or so.

wiredgeorge · 12-08-2022, 09:42 AM

OP hasn't been back since 11/23 to follow up. If the voltage sags due a poor electrical service connected to a camper a quality EMS will catch it and turn off power prior to damage to the camper electrical systems. If the batteries or converter are an issue then this will require rectifying the issue else damage can occur on the 12V side I expect. Not sure heated wires will be a problem but could be if DC drops a lot and for a long time. I think the batteries will likely be more affected.

Jim Aitken · 12-08-2022, 09:59 AM

One more thing to check. Has your emergency brake breakaway pin been pulled out? The electric brakes draw a lot of power.
One time I had a similar problem to yours where the furnace wouldn't run and the lights would dim. When connected to shore power the batteries would charge with no load on them (except for the brakes) but when I added loads the voltage would drop and lights would dim. I spent hours taking the batteries to be tested before I discovered the breakaway plug was missing.

Wilco · 12-08-2022, 10:03 AM

Are the lights dimming only when the furnace turns on? That would indicate that the voltage was dropping because of the additional load. If they are dimming without the furnace running, that could be several things. Corrosion on the leads (wires) at the battery terminals, bad battery or the converter is not charging the batteries correctly.

Check that the battery terminals are clean and tight. Check each battery one at a time. Disconnect the leads and check each battery's voltage with the leads removed to verify they are properly charged. They should be greater than 12.5v. If they are not, check with the leads installed. The converter output should be ~14v to charge them. Clean the leads while you have them disconnected. CAUTION; Do not touch the leads to each other or the trailer frame because it is still energized from the other battery.

Kzneft · 12-08-2022, 01:44 PM

Hi Scar. I don't know why everyone is telling you to check your batteries??? I can see a battery issue if you are NOT plugged in, but if you are plugged in to shore power you are not even using the batteries. Either the 110 to 12v converter is not working well, or it's your transfer switch is not switching your 110 to 12v and you are still using your batteries. You can easily check this by disconnecting your batteries and see if everything goes dark while plugged into shore power.

**sourdough** · 12-08-2022, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kzneft

Hi Scar. I don't know why everyone is telling you to check your batteries??? I can see a battery issue if you are NOT plugged in, but if you are plugged in to shore power you are not even using the batteries. Either the 110 to 12v converter is not working well, or it's your transfer switch is not switching your 110 to 12v and you are still using your batteries. You can easily check this by disconnecting your batteries and see if everything goes dark while plugged into shore power.

The highlighted above would be incorrect. Not only does the RV use the battery power to run high usage items (slides etc.) that the converter should not be used for alone, bad batteries will drain the converter output and cause exactly what the OP described - btdt.

Kzneft · 12-09-2022, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

What “transfer switch” are you talking about?

Since I also have a onboard generator the transfer switch needs to know if you are running off a generator or shore power. Not sure if trailers that are not toy haulers have a transfer switch. Maybe not if you don't have a generator.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

The highlighted above would be incorrect. Not only does the RV use the battery power to run high usage items (slides etc.) that the converter should not be used for alone, bad batteries will drain the converter output and cause exactly what the OP described - btdt.

I am correct on my fairly new Carbon. I can disconnect ALL my batteries and while plugged in to shore power I can run everything, including slides, hydraulic jacks, furnace, fridge, and everything else. Everything works. Why would a RV mfg make you use your batteries for the furnace while plugged in? Makes no sense.

**sourdough** · 12-09-2022, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kzneft

Since I also have a onboard generator the transfer switch needs to know if you are running off a generator or shore power. Not sure if trailers that are not toy haulers have a transfer switch. Maybe not if you don't have a generator.

I am correct on my fairly new Carbon. I can disconnect ALL my batteries and while plugged in to shore power I can run everything, including slides, hydraulic jacks, furnace, fridge, and everything else. Everything works. Why would a RV mfg make you use your batteries for the furnace while plugged in? Makes no sense.

I can disconnect mine too....and eventually ruin the converter. The converter charges the battery(s) and the battery(s) should be in place to run high amperage items like slides and/or a leveling system - it (converter) can run the little stuff.

This RV (and my last - don't remember past that) has a bold red and white sticker in the control panel that specifically states "Battery installation required for slideout operation" - I'm sure yours does as well if it hasn't disappeared. This is also from the WFCO (converter) manual - "A battery is typically only necessary if you do a lot of dry camping or have slide-outs and/or a leveling system". I have read other warnings as well but this is the first I found in a quick search.

My post that you quoted is correct. If you want to run without batteries and buy new converters that's fine, others just need to know that your comment was inaccurate.

Kzneft · 12-09-2022, 03:05 PM

Must be the difference between a Toy Hauler and a TT. Mine does not have a Converter. My shore power does not charge the batteries, only the generator does.
That still does not answer the question why his furnace would be using his batteries while plugged into shore power?

**chuckster57** · 12-08-2022, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kzneft

Hi Scar. I don't know why everyone is telling you to check your batteries??? I can see a battery issue if you are NOT plugged in, but if you are plugged in to shore power you are not even using the batteries. Either the 110 to 12v converter is not working well, or it's your transfer switch is not switching your 110 to 12v and you are still using your batteries. You can easily check this by disconnecting your batteries and see if everything goes dark while plugged into shore power.

What “transfer switch” are you talking about?

notanlines · 12-08-2022, 03:37 PM

"Either the 110 to 12v converter is not working well, or it's your transfer switch is not switching your 110 to 12v and you are still using your batteries."
None of our RV's (9) have ever had a transfer switch from 1110v to 12v.

Kzneft · 12-09-2022, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

What “transfer switch” are you talking about?

'

Transfer switch pic. Same as I have my my RV

**chuckster57** · 12-09-2022, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kzneft

'

Transfer switch pic. Same as I have my my RV

That transfer switch is for the 110VAC coming into the trailer. In normal configuration it will automatically switch from generator to shore power, it has nothing to do with the converter charging the batteries other than the source of the AC voltage to power the converter. If your converter doesn’t charge the batteries then there is an issue with the transfer switch.

wiredgeorge · 12-09-2022, 03:07 PM

Converter converts 117VAC to 12V DC and charges battery simultaneous to powering 12V fused circuits.

Transfer switch either automatic or manual switches incoming 117V AC from a line source; power pedestal or generator. Has nothing to do with 12VDC directly other than the converter won't be energized if the transfer switch fails. A transfer switch is normally associated with RVs equipped with a generator.

My BIL had a new Class C with a transfer switch that fried and neither incoming AC or generator AC would get to the power center. I hot wired the power cord wires inside the box to what had been the outgoing wires from the transfer switch to temporarily allow them to have power via the pedestal. The converter didn't know any of this had occurred and functioned normally.

dutchmensport · 12-11-2022, 07:21 AM

OK, this may be too simple, but????? Is your battery cut-off switch in the "off" position? If it is, all your 12 volt system is being powered by your converter, nothing from the battery. Converters work OK without batteries, but they do have limitations that if overloaded, lights and such will dim down.

Simple test to run... simply unplug your camper from shore power. Turn on one of your house lights. If there is no light, your battery cut off switch is in the "off" position. Flip it back on. All your problems will be solved.

I hope it's just that simple.

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