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Old 02-21-2020, 06:19 PM   #61
jsb5717
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The Demco Recon is a good choice. If I didn't already have and love the Andersen that's the one I'd be looking at.
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Old 02-22-2020, 07:26 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Jnich17 View Post
I purchased an Avalanche 375 rd last summer. I really wanted the Anderson hitch until I found out it was not recommended for my Lippert air ride pin box. Anderson recommended that a rigid pin box is needed for their hitches. Mine pivots on rubber pads. I went with the Demco Recon. Same attachment as the Anderson but will work with non rigid pin boxes. I love it. It comes apart in 3 pieces and leaves a clean bed. I'm not one for lifting heavy loads and it is fairly easy to handle. It attaches to goose neck ball also.
Interesting info, did Andersen tell you this?

All I have read is that the Rota-Flex Pinbox requires a lockout kit, I haven't seen any information about other air ride pinboxes.
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Old 02-22-2020, 08:37 AM   #63
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I used the Andersen, it was great. It just took up a lot of space in the bed. I switched to a pull rite. A bit heavier at 50lbs, but it's steel and smaller overall foot print. Very reasonably priced on Amazon.
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Old 02-22-2020, 08:52 AM   #64
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Yes, something to think about: If you use a hitch system where the "ball" is on the truck and the trailer uses the female coupler, even on a fifth wheel version, you'll need to use safety chains. If you use a goose neck style hitch system, you'll need safety chains. I'm pretty sure almost all 50 states require safety chains with goosneck style hitch systems.

On the other hand, you already have the puck system in your truck. Personally, I'd use a hitch that matches the puck system, if that is Andersen or something else.

Next, you need to consider, unless you had the dealership swap this out, your fifth wheel pin box will need to be switched or, or adapted from the traditional 5th wheel pin box to the gooseneck style pinbox, or an adaptor that fits the trailer fifth wheel.

About the strength or weakness of the Andersen. From what I've read on many, many forums, the critics are usually those who do not have, or have ever used the Andersen system. Those with good evaluations, are almost always those who actually have them. Please take that with a grain of salt.

Good luck in your choice.
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Old 02-22-2020, 02:04 PM   #65
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I was very skeptical at first, aluminum.? The design? But after watching their (Anderson) videos of putting one in a press and it not failing until 50k+ lbs. then taking that hitch out and towing and panick stopping with a triple axle trailer full of sand rails and equipment.....I thought I’d try it. My dealer also sold and installed it. 4 years and 30k miles and I love it. Can’t and won’t say it’s “better” than anything else, but it is rugged,light,easy to remove and install and tows great.

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Old 02-22-2020, 05:13 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchmensport View Post
Yes, something to think about: If you use a hitch system where the "ball" is on the truck and the trailer uses the female coupler, even on a fifth wheel version, you'll need to use safety chains. If you use a goose neck style hitch system, you'll need safety chains. I'm pretty sure almost all 50 states require safety chains with goosneck style hitch systems.

On the other hand, you already have the puck system in your truck. Personally, I'd use a hitch that matches the puck system, if that is Andersen or something else.

Next, you need to consider, unless you had the dealership swap this out, your fifth wheel pin box will need to be switched or, or adapted from the traditional 5th wheel pin box to the gooseneck style pinbox, or an adaptor that fits the trailer fifth wheel.

About the strength or weakness of the Andersen. From what I've read on many, many forums, the critics are usually those who do not have, or have ever used the Andersen system. Those with good evaluations, are almost always those who actually have them. Please take that with a grain of salt.

Good luck in your choice.
The adapter comes with it and bolts on to the king pin.
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Old 02-22-2020, 07:41 PM   #67
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The chains with safety plate are $139 US, Plate goes over andersen bed shaft or ball. very easy to install. Eyebolts for king pin adapter are also handy when chains are not in use.
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Old 02-23-2020, 04:03 AM   #68
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If you already have hooks in the truck bed, such as with the B&W turnover ball, you don't need the plate. About $50 less.
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Old 02-24-2020, 11:57 PM   #69
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Too expensive for the bang/buck relationship offered. JMHO>
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Old 02-25-2020, 12:14 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by rlh1957 View Post
Some people get butterflies when torque wrench or torque specs are mentioned.
For anyone not familiar with them... Torque wrenches are available at good prices and are easy to use. Worth the few dollars spent to have one. You'll use it for many things. Lug nuts really should be torqued on that way they are even, don't get welded on like some tire shops with their air gun set at max. Makes putting the Anderson in or back in easy and sure it is correct.



How does one hook up an RV for a trip and not own a torque wrench? --(wheel lugs for both the trailer and the tow vehicle)
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Old 02-25-2020, 12:21 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by michaelrc51 View Post
I agree about the tubes. I would think it would be much stronger if the ends were cut and welded at an angle and nut collapsed before they welded them in place. I do some of my own fab and like to engineer stuff, but I am not an engineer.

I'm sure that Andersen has their reasons why they designed it the way they did.

After reading pretty much all positive reviews from people who have tried it, I decided to get one. I don't have any experience towing with it yet though.






For anyone who thinks that the mass of a big steel fifth wheel set up is going to somehow be safe(er) or better, I can send some photos of a friend's 35 MPH collision using a B&W and only a 10K fifth.

Andersen's video does show a static load failure. The video does NOT capture the forces experienced in a crash.


I use both B&W Companion AND Andersen along with a Turnover Ball from B&W.. Both excellent customer service companies!
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Old 02-25-2020, 05:26 AM   #72
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SAE, please post the photos.
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Old 02-25-2020, 07:16 AM   #73
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Please post.
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Old 02-25-2020, 07:33 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE View Post
How does one hook up an RV for a trip and not own a torque wrench? --(wheel lugs for both the trailer and the tow vehicle)
I agree, you need a torque wrench.
Although it's not necessary, or recommended, to torque the lug nuts every trip especially with aluminum wheels, doing so will eventually crush the lug hole or break the stud creating bigger problems. Torque after wheels removed & again in a few hundred miles then not necessary til wheels removed again.
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Old 02-25-2020, 08:34 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
I agree, you need a torque wrench.
Although it's not necessary, or recommended, to torque the lug nuts every trip especially with aluminum wheels, doing so will eventually crush the lug hole or break the stud creating bigger problems. Torque after wheels removed & again in a few hundred miles then not necessary til wheels removed again.

I have no idea where you source your info, in fact each and every resource that I’ve viewed during 50 years of pleasure and business transport indicates the exact opposite to your statement here, “Although it's not necessary, or recommended,... ”.

As as alloy trailer wheels are especially problematic, let’s start with the first of at least 100,000 examples from REAL subject matter authorities found across the Internet:

Lug Nut Torque Requirements & Maintenance Fall 2005 • www.keystonerv.com • 877-U-TORQUE
http://www.roadkingtrailers.com/LugNutTorquetrailersKeystone.pdf

“The axle and wheel assemblies of your RV (Figure
A) are designed differently than those on your car. The overall size, weight and center of gravity of a recreational vehicle subject the wheels to pressures unique to trailering. During normal cornering, the tires and wheels experience a considerable amount
of stress called “side-load”. Therefore, the lug nuts on your recreational vehicle require periodic retorqueing.
These instructions will show you how to maintain proper lug nut torque by following these important steps:

1. Check torque before every trip

2. Use proper tools (Figures C and D)
3. Follow the appropriate star pattern sequence
(Figure H)
4. Torque lug nuts in the correct stages and follow-up intervals after any wheel reinstallation (Figure L)
Etc... .
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:25 AM   #76
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Although my experience is only hands on (been using torque wrenches since the late 1950s when all we had were the beam types). I agree with statements by Danny "travelin texans" constant retorqueing does in fact distort aluminum wheels and stretches the lug nuts. This is only my opinion as a mechanic. YMMV
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:43 AM   #77
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There are those present who understand and broadcast things differently than the manufacturers and design engineers.

Reason would have it that for a nut to require periodic “additional” torque application (clicks on the wrenching), that fastener must have suffered from a loss of original applied torque.
Loss of torque = BAD.
If the nut remains at the original torque over time, then the conclusion is that the wrench will not “click”, the nut will not “spin”, and it is impossible to ‘wallow out’ the lug’s hole as a result of checking the torque.

How much loss of fastening torque is acceptable for you guys? How do you measure this loss? What causes the loss in the first place? How do you measure the torque remaining on the lug?

I have never seen nor experienced a loose wheel as a result of proper torque procedures. The opposite is not true.
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:58 AM   #78
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We're getting off in the weeds on this post about hitches, so I'll start another regarding lyg torque.
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