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Old 03-11-2015, 09:05 AM   #1
Dawgfan
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needed advice on level size and bubble levels

Our 2014 Passport 3220bh came with out bubble levels & I would like to add some. I'm not really wanting to drill holes in the side of our brand new camper, so I'm thinking stick on. I have heard that I can use a carpenter's level on the just inside the door. So this leads me to my 2 questions. First what size carpenter's level to use and secondly what type of bubble level to use? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:10 AM   #2
Javi
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I'd suggest heading over to a Harbor Freight and getting a 3' level... it's really all anyone needs.

I bought me some o them stick on levels and never got around to using them.. It's just as easy to open the door, lay the level in there and look at it.. 'sides nowadays the trailers ain't got to be as perfectly level as the used to.. In fact I generally set mine up so the water from the A/C runs to the back.
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:17 AM   #3
Desert185
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I leveled the trailer with a 18"-24" carpenter's level on the floor, then used a two-pack, self-adhering bubble level kit. One is attached to the front of the trailer near the front left corner and the other is attached the left side near the same corner where the landing gear extend/retract switch is located. The level on the floor is just for initial calibration for the stick on levels to be attached.
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:25 AM   #4
BirchyBoy
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I tried to use one of the stick on levels that go on the center of the end cap. Then I realized that my truck had barn doors and I couldn't see it.

I use a small level inside the entry door and then on then on the tongue.
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Old 03-11-2015, 11:02 AM   #5
cabinfever
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I use a 2 foot level the same as others. I use the countertop by the door, works well. As Javi said, doesn't need to be perfect and like him we have always set ours up with the front high so runoff goes rear. The end of last year I found if I go even higher in the front we get less streaking on the sides.
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Old 03-11-2015, 11:35 AM   #6
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Like almost everyone the first starts out camping. I did the bubble levels, have had them fall off- get knocked off- and glass broke.. They worked ok I guess.. but got tired of them..My dealer suggested a small level just inside the door.. I took his advice. I had a small 10" level at home and tried that..I have never used anything else..i really don't worry about spot on either.. If I am off an 1/8 to a quarter bubble to the high side on the slide out..i just leave it.. when you slide out it will almost level out.. And I look down the window frames, going front to back level.. I get really close most every time...(but I do check the level inside the door)...
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:36 PM   #7
buzzcop63
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Watching a Trailer Life video on how level a trailer should be for the refrigerator to operate without damage the moderator who owners an RV repair shop said that if you place a round target level on the floor of the freezer section and the bubble stays at least half way in the center then you are level enough for its operation. He also stated that leaving a refrigerator for more then half hour that is not level can start damage, this I believe was while the unit was in operation. I use this method and once I found level with the bubble in dead center of the target ring I stuck on the front and side bubble levels on the outside of the couch, also checked with carpenters level on the floor and kitchen counter, all centered.
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Old 03-12-2015, 07:34 AM   #8
hankaye
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HowdY All;

I use 2 different levels, a 2 footer like most have mentioned
and a bubble level (yanked it out of the top of the Satellite dishes
tube), that I sit inside the freezer. As a fulltimer I absolutely hate
having to re-level later, when things have settled. So, for my purposes
I start a tad high on the slide side and a wee bit high at the front
for A/C drainage.

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Old 03-12-2015, 08:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert185 View Post
I leveled the trailer with a 18"-24" carpenter's level on the floor, then used a two-pack, self-adhering bubble level kit. One is attached to the front of the trailer near the front left corner and the other is attached the left side near the same corner where the landing gear extend/retract switch is located. The level on the floor is just for initial calibration for the stick on levels to be attached.
This is pretty much what I've done on our last several trailers and fivers. Works great. I'm not into the getting it perfectly level. Too much work. Get it close and that's just fine... It's camping and that means relaxing and enjoying. Get close and you will be fine.
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Old 03-12-2015, 09:31 PM   #10
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Getting close is fine, BUT if i was redoing my levels, the BIGGER the better. I bought the 2pack with the adhesive and they are on 5 years later. Problem is I cant see them from the truck. I used a 4' level on the floor and made sure the camper was perfectly level both ways and stuck the levels on the fiberglass. Just as a precaution I caulked the sides of the guages so no rain got underneath. Used an alcohol pad prior to clean the area before I stuck it.
Problem is I cant see it from the truck. I always thought my buddies big guage was assign but after 5 years I guess I'm assign. You cant see the side 1 but the a big center 1 is a big help. My spouse cant guide me worth a F.... And she knows it. My daughters do better cause I trained them. Good luck
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Old 03-17-2015, 05:07 AM   #11
Tboudro
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I use a four foot carpenters level and got rid of all else. Works great ALL the time.
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Old 03-17-2015, 09:43 AM   #12
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I use the Anderson Levelers and a 9" bubble level on the floor in the front baggage compartment. But I am totally dependent on the instructions I get from my DW while rolling the trailer until level side to side.

Recently, I loaded my phone with an iPhone App called Clinometer from the company "plaincode" that audibly calls out the angle of the phone over Bluetooth. I have not tried it out yet with the trailer, but it seems to be responsive enough if I used it as the level, that it has a chance of working so I can level the trailer without the DW's help.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:20 PM   #13
Bob Landry
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I use a cheap plastic level from Home Depot, set it close to the entrance and level the trailer so that it is one bubble high on the street side. The two slideouts bring it to close enough for us. It ain't rocket science and I have better things to spend campground time on than fidgeting with the orange leveling blocks.
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