Front Cap Water Damage, Need Repair Info

[mkossor]

Relatively new RV owner here, thankful for this forum.
Have a 2016 Keystone Bullet Ultra-Light Travel Trailer. Recent use noticed damp interior seam, pealing wall paper on front cap/wall. Looked in cargo compartment, noticed wall paper broken and wood behind rotted. I searched for threads on this issue without luck.

Water appears to be getting in from the bottom, not the top roof seam. Did notice the weather strip in the side molding cracked on top allowing water to enter and run down the inside the screw strip trim molding. I replaced the removable weather strip but apparently too late. I didn't notice any type of sealer on the removeable black weather strip when I replaced it, just press fit. Was I supposed to apply some type of sealer?

I called Keystone, referred to dealer, dealer said front cap panels and wall paper for a 2016 Bullet are not likely available any longer. Suggested I just use 1/4" Luan panel or 1/4" under laminate plywood from Home depot and whatever wall paper I find that is close. Heck, they said they could not even supply original Keystone square head screws or hardware if needed.

Dealer rep also said the wood is glued to the fiberglass cap so I would have to scrape off the rotted wood and replace with the new wood. Then there is the issue of getting the new flat wood panel to conform to the curvature of the Bullet frame. So, Not sure what I am getting into here and wanted to see if DIYer here have been through the front cap removal, repair, replacement process before and could provide further guidance.

Worse case scenario; The dealer said they can still order the entire front cap ($480+$100 fee+$250shipping ~$830) with new fiberglass with wood pre-glued.

Any helpful guidance and suggestions from those who have been through this before would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Ken / Claudia]

I have mentioned this several times this year. Feb noticed a Cougar same year as mine at the local RV repair shop with a brand new front. They said that type of repair is 5,000 parts and labor.
Mine has sun damage and looks bad but no water leaks.

This information is new 3 weeks ago I emailed Keystone asking if I could pay them to replace the front wall. Still awaiting a answer. That local dealer said Keystone likely does not have the extra material even if they would repair it. In his opinion I will not get any answer from them. I think he is right.

As far as doing it yourself, if your asking then I beleive you likely do not have tools, shop, skills maybe the extra people needed to attaché it. Remember its about 8 feet wide 8 feet long single piece that needs to be bent and screwed onto the framing while being exactly squared to side walls also squared.
If it were me and I do most everything myself. I would pay the shop you spoke with to do the repair and expect more damage then you now see.

Last week I got an offer of 13,000 for the trailer as is. I am not putting another 5,000 into it to look better, but not ready to sell.

[mkossor]

Thanks for your reply Ken.

Was hoping to receive input from folks who actually opened up the front cap of their bullet and did restoration work them self. Limited videos on YouTube.

Also interested to learn the best suppliers for RV maintenance and repair parts. Alpha/Dicore Sealer, Silicone, Square head RV screws, Weather strip molding and removable plastic insert, etc. Keystone does not provide any documentation (structural/assembly diagrams) or even simple parts like square head screws!

Are there any resources like Chilton's or Haynes automotive repair and restoration manuals for RV's that completely break down and document all aspects (Structural, HVAC, Pluming, electrical, breaks, axle, etc.) of each model?

Thanks

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by mkossor

Thanks for your reply Ken.

Was hoping to receive input from folks who actually opened up the front cap of their bullet and did restoration work them self. Limited videos on YouTube.

Also interested to learn the best suppliers for RV maintenance and repair parts. Alpha/Dicore Sealer, Silicone, Square head RV screws, Weather strip molding and removable plastic insert, etc. Keystone does not provide any documentation (structural/assembly diagrams) or even simple parts like square head screws!

Are there any resources like Chilton's or Haynes automotive repair and restoration manuals for RV's that completely break down and document all aspects (Structural, HVAC, Pluming, electrical, breaks, axle, etc.) of each model?

Thanks

Here ya go;

https://www.fastenersuperstore.com/p...CABEgJJqPD_BwE

That is just one size I linked to. You can get other sizes. I'm sure Keystone isn't going to send you anything in the way of spare/maintenance parts. You should be going to your dealer, or, depending on what it is you can get various widgets at home improvement stores, RV stores etc. As far as the square drive screws my service manager gave me large containers of black topped screws and white topped screws along with a big container of self tapping screws with washers for the underbelly. You might get to know those folks if you don't.....they come in handy at times.

[mkossor]

Thanks Danny, I will check them out. I DID contact my local Keystone authorized Dealer regarding replacement parts. He advised me my 2016 Bullet was way too old to get side panels or things like wall paper. He also said they do not sell square head screws. Go to Home Depot...

FYI for Nubie DIYers, a great resource for instructional "how to" videos is the Dicor website: https://dicorproducts.com/video-library/

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by mkossor

Thanks Danny, I will check them out. I DID contact my local Keystone authorized Dealer regarding replacement parts. He advised me my 2016 Bullet was way too old to get side panels or things like wall paper. He also said they do not sell square head screws. Go to Home Depot...

FYI for Nubie DIYers, a great resource for instructional "how to" videos is the Dicor website: https://dicorproducts.com/video-library/

I figure the dealer is right. I didn't really ask about buying any, I just told the SM that I needed a quantity of all of it so he went back in the service dept. and came back with one of the service advisors carrying all the containers. I will say that if I didn't know him and the staff well I doubt that would ever have happened which is why I said it comes in handy to get to know them. I'm in there all the time for one reason or another and make a point of stopping in to see the SM and GM.

[mkossor]

Opened up the cargo area, the wood (whatever it was) is all rotted and de-laminated, you can easily put a finger through. Fiberglas was soaked. Looks like water was getting in running down the weather strip molding screw holes and butyl tape ineffective. The edge caulking was all good.


So. What is the best wood to use? 0.2" thick hardwood plywood underlayment? I was also thinking about using something like Glasliner FRP wall board; Plastic Composite Siding Panel is made of polyester resin. 0.090" thick wall siding is rot-resistant.

Also, the fiberglass insulation wears down over time, can be damaged by water, is susceptible to mold so will replace it with Rigid Foam which has Long life-span, is resistant to moisture and durable with high tensile strength.

Will be using sealing washers on those weather strip screws this time and will also be installing closet LED lights and LED reading lights over the bed.

Comments from DIYers on wall material (wood or FRP) and use of Rigid insulation (Pink Owens Corning Foamular NGX 1.5" R-7.5) welcome.
Thanks!

[Ken / Claudia]

Remember water runs down not up. It will wick up. Do not rule out it came from the roof seam, front lights, vertical side seams and if you have one the horizonal seam across the front. Heck maybe more than one location was leaking. While its all apart standing outside with a hose spraying low at the front and wait for water leaking before moving hose higher might help you determine where its coming from and not guess.
I replace material with same size, not sure what size they used. I just used that pink foam board for the first time on the garage doors, it's easy to cut and work with. I am trying to keep hot and cold from entering garage, no water. When it was 100 outside the inside metal door panels was 119. Now it about 90 if outside is 100. In my case I also used reflective rolls of aluminum foil to reflect heat back out and keep heat in The pink board is in between that. I am just describing my work, in your case I would not use the aluminum foil.

[mkossor]

Thanks for the input. It is very disappointing how the Keystone Bullet is constructed and the poor workmanship I am finding; points where the Betyl tape was on even in contact with the fiberglass, screws missing the aluminum supports, underbelly covering slit under the stone guard. Will be using Eternabond corner tape + Betyl + Geocel 2810V Pro Flex sealant on the corner molding this time around.

I saw the broken weather strip insert but didn't think it was a water tight seal so waited to fix it. BIG mistake! Lesson Learned.

[turbojimmy]

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

Mine has sun damage and looks bad but no water leaks.

By "sun damage" do you mean warping? Mine is warped and the previous owner said it was from the sun. No leaks (yet?).

[Hugo-H]

Originally Posted by mkossor

Relatively new RV owner here, thankful for this forum.
Have a 2016 Keystone Bullet Ultra-Light Travel Trailer. Recent use noticed damp interior seam, pealing wall paper on front cap/wall. Looked in cargo compartment, noticed wall paper broken and wood behind rotted. I searched for threads on this issue without luck.

Water appears to be getting in from the bottom, not the top roof seam. Did notice the weather strip in the side molding cracked on top allowing water to enter and run down the inside the screw strip trim molding. I replaced the removable weather strip but apparently too late. I didn't notice any type of sealer on the removeable black weather strip when I replaced it, just press fit. Was I supposed to apply some type of sealer?

I called Keystone, referred to dealer, dealer said front cap panels and wall paper for a 2016 Bullet are not likely available any longer. Suggested I just use 1/4" Luan panel or 1/4" under laminate plywood from Home depot and whatever wall paper I find that is close. Heck, they said they could not even supply original Keystone square head screws or hardware if needed.

Dealer rep also said the wood is glued to the fiberglass cap so I would have to scrape off the rotted wood and replace with the new wood. Then there is the issue of getting the new flat wood panel to conform to the curvature of the Bullet frame. So, Not sure what I am getting into here and wanted to see if DIYer here have been through the front cap removal, repair, replacement process before and could provide further guidance.

Worse case scenario; The dealer said they can still order the entire front cap ($480+$100 fee+$250shipping ~$830) with new fiberglass with wood pre-glued.

Any helpful guidance and suggestions from those who have been through this before would be appreciated. Thanks!

Do you have any pics please from where to water came into the cap?
Because I have a same TT bullet ultra lite premier 2016... so I can check it

[dutchmensport]

They square headed screws are called "Robertson screws" .. opposed to Flat screws and "Phillips screws". You can get them at any hardware store, home depot, lowes.

[Hballer21]

I feel your pain. I went through this with a Coleman trailer a few years ago. You’ve got a good handle on the materials to fix it. I always go to synthetic materials when organic ones fail (sorry tree huggers). You don’t HAVE to use square heads. I’ve gone to Torx. They won’t strip easily (same as the square heads) and everybody stocks them. They come in many different types of coatings(and colors). Be sure you clean all the surfaces before reassembly.

[Wantoride]

I have a 2014 passport ultra lite, pretty much the same construction. About 2 years out of warranty the roof began to leak, poor design, inferior construction in my opinion. I can almost guarantee that the water came from the roof and got trapped in between the plastic sheeting and press board floor.

[Ken / Claudia]

On the sun damage, I would describe the look as wrinkles across the panel. Some use the term oil caning. It's worse looking in summer heats and flattens out some in winter. Water intrusion with delamination look about the same. So each takes some investigation. Also decals are all faded and cracked.

[turbojimmy]

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

On the sun damage, I would describe the look as wrinkles across the panel. Some use the term oil caning. It's worse looking in summer heats and flattens out some in winter. Water intrusion with delamination look about the same. So each takes some investigation. Also decals are all faded and cracked.

Yeah mine looks "wavy" across the top, with the worst of it on the left corner where it almost looks like something fell on it (but it didn't - it's just warped). Inside, in the same spot, it looks like the ceiling might have water damage. It's not stained by the vinyl is separating from the wood - it's wrinkled. It doesn't continue down into the closet as it would if it were a leak. I've checked it after hard rains and it's dry. I inspected the seam and it looks like the sealant is in tact. But I don't believe in coincidences. I'll have to investigate further.

[mkossor]

Well restoration is all finished. Materials not expensive or too difficult to remove and replace. Just very time consuming (labor) 40-60 hours of work so that's were the bulk of the cost comes from. The job would have been MUCH easier if Keystone would provide replacement panels. I was told they are "obsolete" 4 years after manufacture. Had to locate 1/8" luan plywood, buy four 4'x8' panels, seal them with Kiltz primer both sides wait 1 week to day then select and apply wall paper. Here are some photos.

Yep, roof leaked at the seam between the Fiberglass cap and TPO roof. Roof swelled up like a sponge and got moldy. Had to replace part of the rotted roof, reinforced with fiberglass then installed a new wide wood nailer on the ceiling. Other improvements: 1. Front cap was missing wood nailer at seam between the aluminum stone guard and fiberglass cap so installed a wood nailer rail so the stone guard and fiberglass cap has something for the screws to secure to. 2. Closet metal rails were not installed properly on the left side, most of the cabinet screws missed the metal rail. Replaced both metal rails with heavier gauge metal rails. 3. Installed 12V lights in both closets. 4. Installed AC outlet on left side of bed like right side. 5. Installed cargo light on left side. 6. Installed 100W solar panel on roof and solar controller above instrument panel. 7. Installed WiFi Repeater for better WiFi reception.

[mkossor]

Here are a few more photos of the restoration. Good exercise and satisfying work seeing it all come back together with many new upgrades. I decided to install water/moisture sensors on the left and right side walls as well as the TPO roof pocket to alert me of any new water intrusion BEFORE it gets so severe the walls begin to rot and show signs water damage.

[wiredgeorge]

Looks like a great job! Enjoy camping going forward in a dry camper!

[jasin1]

Nice job! Shows that anything is possible with a little elbow grease and a good attitude.
How hard was it keeping the front cap from splitting cracking when trying to separate it from the trailer?