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Old 03-03-2011, 04:06 AM   #1
mel07green
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Furnace won't stay lit

So now our furnace won't stay lit. You can hear it ignite - tick, tick, tick - then it conks out within seconds.

YAY! So now not only are we unable to cool the things we want cooled (yes, we are STILL waiting for the fridge to be repaired, now we can't heat the things we want heated.

Does anyone have any suggestions - in addition to turning the furnace off and calling Suburban?

I feel like I spend my life being shuffled between dealers and service centers and manufacturers in a never-ending process of pitiless buck-passing.
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:26 AM   #2
mel07green
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Does this sound like a 12V problem? Some issue with the battery or ground wire? The furnace IS lighting. I can hear it ignite, smell the gas, and get a few seconds of heat blowing out of the outside vent before it goes cold again. Fan is fine.
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:43 AM   #3
deadeye
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If the voltage is to low the fan does not run fast enough to open the sail switch to allow the gas valves to open. I'd start by checking the voltage at the furnace. If that is good it could be the control box or the probe that sences the flame presences. Could also be a bad ground.
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:41 AM   #4
mel07green
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Thank you!

If the sail switch is not opening, would the furnace still ignite?
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:21 AM   #5
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Well, it appears to be working. My husband changed the propane tanks over this morning and I think maybe there was some kind of supply problem. Using the burners on the stove seems to have fixed things.
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Old 03-04-2011, 05:09 AM   #6
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Have a couple of questions for you. Do you have an automatic change over valve attached to your propane tanks? In other words when a tank runs empty or is below the proper pressure to supply propane to the appliance the valve will switch over to the full tank. Do you have both tanks valves open, if you have an automatic change over valve? You should always keep both tanks open if you are using the furnace and have an automatic change over valve.
The reason I asked is that air will seep into the gas line of the tank that is closed or when you change out tanks. This needs to be bleed off in order to supply the gas to your appliance.
That is why I always light the burners of the stove first. This will allow the air to escape and then when the burners ignite the other appliances will work properly.

You may know this already but people forget sometimes.
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:30 AM   #7
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Well, it appears I spoke to soon. Same issue reemerged last night, this time affecting the stove as well.

It seems we may have a bad regulator. We have a 100lb tank also, and when we had it filled last weekend, the guy didn't put it on the scale and consequently overfilled it. Not sure that isn't the culprit right there.

Anyway, we are going to replace the regulator and see if that helps.

Jim, I think the matter is being confused by the set-up with the third tank. Hopefully we'll find a fix today.
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Old 03-04-2011, 10:53 AM   #8
CRUZIN 2
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Regulator

We had to replace our regulator also, we had problems with our furnace and it turned out, bad regulator. I don't think it was the propane man.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:00 PM   #9
mel07green
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I was hoping it was the regulator, but I'm not so sure now. I switched back to a 30lb tank and the furnace is working again. Also a stronger flame on the stove.

This makes me wonder whether the problem might be that the pressure from the 100lb tank is too low, and consequently the sail switch is not operating?

Does that sound feasible?
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