Water pump when connected to “city water?”

[Pathman]

Hey guys, so spending the first days/nights in the new Cougar.
I haven’t filled the fresh water tank because I’m at a seasonal spot for now and am hooked up to city water.

My question is, with no water in the fresh water tank, I imagine you can’t run the water pump while only hooked to the city water, correct?
The water pressure from the kitchen faucet seems a bit low, so would the pressure be greater using the tank water and pump, or the same with the city line and no pump?

[slow]

It is one or the other, not both at the same time.

Check for debris in the faucet strainer.

[dutchmensport]

All you need to do is add some water to the fresh water tank and then turn the spigot off at the shore water source. Now turn on the water pump and see how the pressure is. When you run your water pump, your water pressure will always be consistent and even. When running from shore water, it may be very weak or horribly strong as the pressure depends upon the supply from shore. If you have a water pressure regulator, the water pressure should never exceed that amount, BUT it can be less.

We never run directly off shore water. We always use our fresh water tank and on-board pump. No danger of over-pressure that way.

As stated above, check the strainer on the end of your faucets.

[sourdough]

You can use either shore water or the water pump. I've not used the water tank/pump in decades since I moved from boondocking. I have no issues with pressure using shore water camping all across the place. I do not want to put water into the fresh water tank, try to use it then drain it repeatedly (or carry the weight), particularly since I won't use it once a year.

If you are having issues with one faucet look at the faucet vs just an overall problem. Always use a water pressure regulator and a filter IMO. Since it's a new trailer I would highly recommend pulling the little aerators on every faucet as the debris left in a new trailer is quite extensive.

[RickV]

If you try to use both at the same time you could possibly end up with a overflowing fresh water tank. There is a check valve in the pump and shore water pressure can force it open causing a back flow into your fresh water tank. Ask me how I know ? If this has happened to you it is a easy fix just turn off the shore water and run the pump it should correct itself.

[NH_Bulldog]

As others have said; one or the other.

That being said, the kitchen faucet is likely the most flow-restricted in the camper, especially if you have a tall gooseneck faucet with integrated pulldown sprayer head. I tried to find a way to get more flow from it but was unsuccessful so I replaced it with a household grade faucet assembly that looks similar, but is of higher quality and has better flow characteristics.

[Pathman]

Thanks all. It’s not terrible, it’s just less then the bathroom faucet.
As sourdough mentioned, I’d rather not have the tank filled if I’m able to use the camp water line.
So I have the regulator set at 40 psi, so I guess the pressure I now have is about the best I can expect without changing out the faucet?

[chuckster57]

What regulator are you using?

Your probably safe using 45PSI.

[Pathman]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

What regulator are you using?

Your probably safe using 45PSI.

Don’t remember the name Chuck, but It’s the one with the liquid filled glass dial indicator with the adjustment on top.

[chuckster57]

That’s the good one.

[Pathman]

Do you have the same one? Do you adjust it while under pressure or with water off? I would think under pressure but it didn’t respond with minor adjustments.

[chuckster57]

Yes I have that one. I would think you can adjust while under pressure. Mine was set to 45.

[Pathman]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Yes I have that one. I would think you can adjust while under pressure. Mine was set to 45.

Copy, thanks.

[sourdough]

Pathman your regulator sounds similar to mine. I used to run it at 40psi but that wasn't enough pressure. Changed to 45 and now it's at about 50psi which works OK for us. You might fix your issue simply by changing that. I would still pull those aerators and look at them just to be sure. I pulled mine when I got this one home and they had all kinds of bits and pieces of stuff in them.

[Pathman]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Pathman your regulator sounds similar to mine. I used to run it at 40psi but that wasn't enough pressure. Changed to 45 and now it's at about 50psi which works OK for us. You might fix your issue simply by changing that. I would still pull those aerators and look at them just to be sure. I pulled mine when I got this one home and they had all kinds of bits and pieces of stuff in them.

Will do, thanks.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Pathman your regulator sounds similar to mine. I used to run it at 40psi but that wasn't enough pressure. Changed to 45 and now it's at about 50psi which works OK for us. You might fix your issue simply by changing that. I would still pull those aerators and look at them just to be sure. I pulled mine when I got this one home and they had all kinds of bits and pieces of stuff in them.

Originally Posted by Pathman

Will do, thanks.

Every RV that I've ever seen has had "trash and PEX shards" in the water lines. All of those RV's benefitted by cleaning the aerators/flow limiter attachments at the "business end" of the faucet ON A REGULAR BASIS. It doesn't take much dirt, grit or PEX cuttings to stop the flow or limit the flow of an aerator.

When one faucet is "wimpy" and all the rest are working normally, that's a "almost guaranteed sign" that the aerator is dirty and needs cleaning, especially if it was working OK last time you used it. Pay attention to how you take it apart or you'll have a 50/50 chance of reassembling it "backwards or upside down"....

[flybouy]

If you have one faucet with low flow than logically it's not an issue with the supply. All the water fixtures are feed from the same supply line.

As regarding the adjustable regulater, any adjustable regulator will require whatever it's regulating to have full pressure from the source applied to know what the resulting adjusted pressure will be. To adjust the regulator without the water turned on would be guessing at what the pressure would end up.

Running the pump with the city water turned on should cause an issue if you are using a properly adjusted regulator. The water pump has a check valve to prevent city water from back flowing and filling the fresh water tank. Seems illogical to have both sources of water turned on but it won't hurt anything unless the check valve or pressure switch on the FW pump has failed. With that said, turning the source valve in the convenience center (if so equipped) under pressure can damage that diverter valve.

Back to your question. The simplest test is to turn on the kitchen faucet with cold only and note the flow rate. Turn off the cold and turn on the hot. If the flow is noticeably different then investigate that supply line from where it's T off from the main pipe to the faucet . Somewhere the line is pinced or clogged in that line. If the pressure is low both on hot and cold then the issue is from the valve(s) to the outlet.

If both hot & cold have equally low pressure the first thing to do is to unscrew the aerator on the faucet. It will have a flow restrictor device in that aerator assembly. Often the restrictor is nothing more than a thin disk with a small hole in center. With the aerator removed turn on the water, either hot or cold. If the flow is OK you found your problem. This a very common issue as that hole is very small it can be partially clogged with a very small piece of debris.

For a "pull down" or "pull out" faucet first take a quick look under the sink. It is possible that the hose that runs from the faucet valves and hangs under the sink could be kinked. Hope this helps.

[Pathman]

Great info FB, thanks!