Lippert Level-Up system

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Yes I have. Very common on the longer Grand Designs reflection fivers.

I guess that explains it. Before I bought I was looking at a 337?? Reflection and it had 4 point electric and from what the sales guy told me Reflections had the 4 point electric - I did not look at or want longer. He said we would move to 6 point hydraulic in the Solitude, neither of which I wanted.

I think I'm going to go with 2 additional electric jacks once they tell me what I need on the 331RLS specifically (haven't inquired yet). My conversations indicate it shouldn't be too difficult other than wiring and a new control panel.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

I don’t know the exact rating on the electric jacks. I seem to recall hearing 5k but don’t quote me on that. I know it’s enough to lift the entire RV, which would.

Yes, I believe they told me the rating on the electric jacks was 5k.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

Yes, they use them on longer units as mentioned. I believe Keystone only uses them on High Countries that are 39’ or longer. Shorter units all get the 4 point.

One of the reasons I thought I wanted a larger trailer was to get 6 point leveling and our 331 was the biggest that came with the 4 point and 10" frame, from there it was 6 point and 12". Weight, length, diesel/dually.....decided to go with what I have.

Edit: I think I just answered my question to Chuck. I was thinking the next biggest size MHC went to the 6 point hydraulic, maybe it was 6 point electric (Ground Control 3.0)?

[chuckster57]

Depending on the placement of the rear jacks, adding two more may not get you much. As I recall the center jacks are “stabilizers” not really “lifting/leveling” jacks.

When you start auto level with the 6 point system, the last step is “stabilizing” and the center jacks extend until the “Hall effect” says stop. They are on the ground when the “leveling” starts.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by sourdough

One of the reasons I thought I wanted a larger trailer was to get 6 point leveling and our 331 was the biggest that came with the 4 point and 10" frame, from there it was 6 point and 12". Weight, length, diesel/dually.....decided to go with what I have.

Edit: I think I just answered my question to Chuck. I was thinking the next biggest size MHC went to the 6 point hydraulic, maybe it was 6 point electric (Ground Control 3.0)?

I prefer the hydraulic. Between keystone and GD, reflection, Cougar, MHC and Solitude S Class all use electric. The bigger units such as the 385 get the 6 point. The Montanas, Solitude, Alpine, and Avalanche all have 6 point hydraulic. If I was buying today, I’d probably get an Avalanche. They’re in the Reflection and MHC price point. I love my Alpine, but with all the new bells and whistles, todays Avalanche is about the same as my 2014 Alpine.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Depending on the placement of the rear jacks, adding two more may not get you much. As I recall the center jacks are “stabilizers” not really “lifting/leveling” jacks.

When you start auto level with the 6 point system, the last step is “stabilizing” and the center jacks extend until the “Hall effect” says stop. They are on the ground when the “leveling” starts.

Not sure about the stabilizing part and not sure how much of a difference 4 vs 6 makes, but I know 40’ + motorhomes use 4 point.

[chuckster57]

Your right, but I wonder if it’s a matter of not having free frame space to mount them. HWH is the predominant brand in class A’s and they are some large diameter rams. Older ones had a single jack in the front. Big Foot is another popular brand, and I see them in a lot of class C’s.

[Goliath-goes]

I think your over thinking this. It’s all a matter of terminology the system says landing gear meaning front two jacks but when it auto levels all 6 work together. Obviously it’s six point level system

[Trailercook]

Pump doesn’t lift the front end of the trailer. Makes loud noise, kind like when your starter doesn’t have enough battery power. The battery was dead but my trailer is hooked up to shore power and still can’t lift it. I checked the battery and it’s showing 11.9 vdc. All troubleshooting pages I’ve seen don’t mention the noise, and lead straight to resetting the system with the retract all legs button. Trailer is a 2022 bighorn 37RD

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Trailercook

Pump doesn’t lift the front end of the trailer. Makes loud noise, kind like when your starter doesn’t have enough battery power. The battery was dead but my trailer is hooked up to shore power and still can’t lift it. I checked the battery and it’s showing 11.9 vdc. All troubleshooting pages I’ve seen don’t mention the noise, and lead straight to resetting the system with the retract all legs button. Trailer is a 2022 bighorn 37RD

Welcome to the forum

11.9VDC isn’t enough voltage. You need to fix the low voltage issue first. Check converter output, make sure the converter is getting 110VAC.

[Trailercook]

Thanks I’ll check it out this afternoon

[JRTJH]

Additionally, the leveling system is a "high amperage device" and the converter is not equipped to provide the amperage needed to run it. What happens is as the demand for amps increases, voltage decreases and the leveling system will start to "stall" until the voltage drops enough to cause an "error out default" and the system shuts down...

You need the batteries to act as an "accumulator tank" (to use plumbing terms) to even out the amp demand....

If your batteries are not fully charged, even if you are connected to shore power, you risk not having sufficient power to complete the leveling process in some situations. What situations? Things like an extremely cold day when the pump has to pressure "thick, cold fluid", a heavier than normal trailer, a site that is more "unlevel than normal", corrosion on the wiring connections to the pump, a "too small circuit breaker on the pump supply circuit....

[travelin texans]

With all jacks up & all slides in check the fluid in the reservoir, with everything retracted it should be within 1/4-1/2" from the opening.
The techs at the factory recommended replacing 1 quart in the reservoir with 15w motorcycle fork oil to prevent the creaking & popping of the jacks during temperature changes when extended, worked for ours, then I used the fork oil to top off the reservoir as needed.
Also check the water levels in the batteries, top them off with distilled water, then check them periodically, monthly if you leave it plugged into shore power 24/7.
If you store the rv for the winter you're best option is to disconnect the negative cable from the battery going directly to ground, or add a disconnect to that cable, this totally disconnects all drains from the batteries. The factory disconnect, if equipped, DOES NOT totally disconnect ALL parasitic drains from your batteries resulting in dead batteries in as little as a week depending on battery conditions.

[flybouy]

I'll add another analogy to John's post. Let's say you have a 55 amp converter. Let's also say your slide has a 30 amp breaker protecting it. So whats the problem right? Well, first off the initial "in rush" amps could exceed 50 or so amps for a slit second until the motor and slide begin motion. It won't draw that amperage long enough to trip the breaker but could be enough to shut down the converter.

The second issue is when the battery is dead the converter will be running at near capacity capacity just charge the battery leaving little if any reserve capacity for anything else. This is why you need a fully charged battery installed before using high amperage 12vdc devices.