Wheel Bearings

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

I think maybe you posted the wrong link. My water pump actually works pretty well! [emoji846]

That was strange, was posting elsewhere but ended up here. It's deleted.

[LewisB]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

It seems like the best thing I can do to prevent issues is be prepared. If I have the parts and tools to handle problems, I don't have any. If I am unprepared, whatever can go wrong seems to. We are traveling further from home than I used to. I like to be prepared. 4-5 hours from home is not uncommon. We want to go to Disney next year, 11 hours or so.

You are half way there - the best thing you can do to prevent issues on the road is to conduct preventative maintenance at home in your driveway where you can pick the timing and speed of the work. THAT is the first and most important part of "being prepared". You can carry a multitude of spare parts - and you will need them all if you do not do basic maintenance at home before your trips.

So disassemble, clean, and inspect your hubs, bearings, races, and brakes; replace defective or worn parts, re-lubricate and reassembly properly. Doing so will significantly reduce the number of problems you have on the road and the cost of spare parts you need to carry. JMHO

[Roscommon48]

ChuckS #17 said it all. good luck

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

I’d recommend following Dexter Axle procedure for EZ Lube bearing and hand grease and follow their recommended initial torque of 50 ft lbs then back nut off and finger tighten nut and install the retainer

Now that you've read the EZ lube procedure & know how it's SUPPOSE to work, it's my strong recommendation don't ever do so UNLESS you're 100% confident that the seals are good & didn't leak by..............only way you can be 100% is take them apart & look.
My .02 cents!

[mwemaxxowner]

I don't have ez lube axles.

I've bought pre greased loaded hubs. I'll just have to make time to get them on before our upcoming trip.

[ChuckS]

So in regards to axle nut setting what type of axles do you have?

[mwemaxxowner]

I have Dexter 3500 pound axles. Other than that not sure what you're asking. They are not equipped with grease fittings.

[ChuckS]

I've always greased and/or replaced the wheel bearings in my trucks myself. My dad uses "feel" and experience to determine how tight to get the nut after putting the bearings in. I've never been very good at it, and always feel a need to have him close by to double check for me. All that said, I never pulled the bearings on my old camper. Few pumps in the grease fitting now and then is all I did.

I'm aware now that that's not the best practice, but also this trailer doesn't have bearing buddies.

Is there a certain torque spec I can follow to get the axle nut set? Or do I need to go all ratchet whisperer like my dad does?

Since you have standard type Dexter axles the procedure for the axle nit tightness you asked about is basically the same..

Follow Dexters procedure and install cotter pin as per their info after initial torque of 50 ft lbs and backing nut off and finger tight...

[mwemaxxowner]

I was guessing it was about the same procedure. That's more or less what FJR VFR said to do also. Shouldn't take too long.

[Dave W]

Use the Dexter Axle service manual - they are the usual manufacturers of axle with them as well as AL-KO now both owned by LCI:

https://www.dexteraxle.com › sprung-axles › light-duty › service-manuals

You may need to copy and paste

[mwemaxxowner]

I put the new bearings and hubs on last night. I followed the procedure that Chuck posted. It really couldn't be easier!

Everything I took off looks good. I'm going to clean it up, pack the bearings, and use them to service it with next spring, and I have my spares for a roadside emergency.

The brakes looked good. I was going to adjust them while I was at it but they don't seem to need any adjustment at this time.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

I put the new bearings and hubs on last night. I followed the procedure that Chuck posted. It really couldn't be easier!

Everything I took off looks good. I'm going to clean it up, pack the bearings, and use them to service it with next spring, and I have my spares for a roadside emergency.

The brakes looked good. I was going to adjust them while I was at it but they don't seem to need any adjustment at this time.

Keep in mind that "bearings and races" are a matched set. If you're planning to just pull the old bearings and stick in the freshly packed ones without changing out the races, you may find some "uniquely abnormal wear patterns" on both sets of bearings. Sort of like getting into one airplane after flying a different one. The bathrooms aren't in the same place... It's the same with "high ridges on races and bearings" They aren't interchangeable even though they have the same part numbers... They come as a "matched set".....

[mwemaxxowner]

No, I'm just going to clean and grease the existing bearings as long as they are in good shape.

[Keystoned]

Since we are talking about this subject, what are normal running temps and where exactly do you point a 'laser' temp gage after pulling over? How much temp variation is normal between each 'hub'?

[JRTJH]

Every rig will have its own "running temperature" depending on many factors.

Tires/wheels on the "sunny side of the trailer" will be significantly higher (10-40F) hotter than on the "shady side of the trailer". Running at 80MPH will cause more heat buildup than running at 45MPH. Running in the desert in July will cause widely different temperatures than running in Minnesota in April...

So, expect temperatures to range widely, depending on where you are and the conditions of how you're towing. The objective is that all 4 wheel/tire/hub combinations should be similar temperatures if towing in the early morning or at night and the temperature should be similar on all wheel/tire/hub combinations on the sunny side and on the shady side if you're towing with the sun hitting one side of the trailer. So, if it's a "one sided sunny tow, expect similar temperatures on the sunny side pair and similar temperatures on the shady side pair...

Where to "aim the red dot" ?? I check the tire sidewall "top/bottom" (2 temps) the wheel forward/aft (90 degrees from where I checked the tire) and shoot through the spoke cutouts on the wheel to check the hub near the center (spindle) area. That's 5 temperature checks per wheel/tire/hub. It takes about 5-6 minutes to do that check on the fifth wheel. I also check the same way on the boat or slingshot trailer if we're triple towing.

I leave the truck idling while I do the temperature checks, that allows the turbo to cool down enough to prevent the oil from "coking in the bearings" inside the turbo. After the checks, I shut down the truck if we're going to be there for more than a couple of minutes. If it's just a "potty break at a rest area" I leave the truck running and lock the doors.

[Keystoned]

Thanks John, on our last trip I only checked as close to the center as possible thru the spokes and saw anywhere between 130 and 160F, so was just wondering if that was typical. It didn't seem very hot, so I was not worried...

[JRTJH]

With a temperature differential of 30F on adjacent wheels, I'd be checking the brake adjustment and possibly pulling the wheels to check the bearings.

You'll get a 30F rise with heavy breaking, but both wheels on that side should be "very close to the same temperature. If there's that much difference on the same side of the trailer, I'd suspect that one brake assembly is not working as well as the other…. It could be as simple as adjustment or it could be grease on the brake shoes from a leaking rear seal. Or, more damaging, it could be (possibly) one bearing is running hotter, causing that hub to be hotter.

Brakes first (the easy one to adjust) and if the next day's towing shows the same, then pull the "hot hub" and repack those bearings. Yes, I'd do it in the campground rather than tow it 1000 miles home before doing the work. Now, if I was 20 miles from home for a weekend trip, I'd wait until I got home.

[flybouy]

I essentially do what John described in post #35 but a few small differences as I tow a travel trailer.

The DW likes using the bathroom in the camper (it has an outside door). I also let the truck idle. I keep the IR temp gun in the driver's door. Hit the 4 way flashers then exit truck and shoot LF tire, then walk around front of truck paying attention to any smells that could be out of place (like hot oil, anti freeze, etc.) and pay attention to any sounds that may be out of place. Check lights as I go. Then shoot the RF truck tire with the IR then the RR. Shoot the ball couple with the IR and then the RF trailer wheel similar to John's pattern.

Open front door and turn on water pump. Open up rear door (bathroom) and step on flush to add water/make sure pump is on. Usually the DW is standing behind me doing a dance before she goes in. Take IR on trailer RR, Check lights on rear (I have a habit of traveling with lights on) then check trailer LR, LF, then truck's LR.

Go to truck and put the IR back and get the dog out, give him some water and take him on a short walk.. By the time he's finished the DW typically is to. Return the dog and it's my turn, thank God my bladder is larger than both of theirs! Flush toilet, wash hands, secure & lock rear door, steps & handle.

Go in to front door and turn water pump off, get drinks from fridge if we need them in the truck. Secure door, etc. The process takes between 10-15 min, most of that is waiting on DW and dog. Then we leave the are refreshed and relieved both physically and mentally knowing everything is good as can be reasonably checked during a quick stop.

Of course that routine get's changed up a bit if the DW is in dire straights (open bathroom FIRST !) or if there is some attraction to staying longer (scenic overlook, etc.)

When I first started doing this I made a checklist to follow (the pilot in me I guess) but didn't take long for it to become automatic and no longer need the list.

[Keystoned]

I should have mentioned the temp difference was side to side, not front to rear, IIRC.

[JRTJH]

Towing in the summer on a sunny day, you'll easily see 30F difference between the "sunny side" and the "shady side". The problem cones into play when there's a 30F difference on the same side between anything (when compared to the same location on the "same side assembly). Tires are usually cooler than wheels which are hotter than hubs (except after heavy braking, when the hubs will be hotter near the circumference/cooler near the spindle) but that will "normalize over the entire hub" after several minutes, so in 5 or 10 minutes after stopping, the hubs should be close to the same temperature at the spindle and at the outer edge....