Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Repairs & Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-04-2019, 06:59 AM   #1
racetech
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 74
Why did my fresh water smell so bad?

About a week before I took my camper out for first trip, I had filled the fresh water tank, flushed all the antifreeze out of system, then drained tank. I then filled it with just a few gallons for rinsing sink and such I didnt want to tow a lot of water weight. Well I noticed when I used the water in the kitchen sink it smelled absolutely horrid! What am I missing or doing wrong in regards to my fresh tank? Thank you
__________________
2011 Silverado Z71
2016 Keystone Passport 171EXP
racetech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 07:05 AM   #2
busterbrown
Senior Member
 
busterbrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 1,659
Did you properly treat and sanitize your fresh water system? Draining, flushing, and filling is just part of the process. Bleach-based sanitation is required.

Also, what is the source for your water? Well or municipal?
__________________
2017 Keystone Bullet 308BHS in Saddle.
2017 RAM 2500 Laramie Mega Cab 4x4 Hemi 6.4L
2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali (SOLD)
Hensley SwiftArrow Control Hitch with 1000 lb Spring Bars
Me, DW, (3) little DS's, and 1 rambunctious Boston Terrier

busterbrown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 07:13 AM   #3
racetech
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 74
No, actually I did not do that. I recently read about the process, and was figuring thats what im missing. Ill have to do that!
__________________
2011 Silverado Z71
2016 Keystone Passport 171EXP
racetech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 07:14 AM   #4
racetech
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 74
So the sanitation process should help there is no additive or anything i need to put in my fresh water each time I fill it?
__________________
2011 Silverado Z71
2016 Keystone Passport 171EXP
racetech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 07:37 AM   #5
rjrelander
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Chaska MN
Posts: 227
If it's more of a chemical smell, there might still be antifreeze lingering in the tank and lines. You want to drain any antifreeze out of the fresh water tank before you start. I forgot this year and just filled the fresh water tank to flush the lines. It took almost an entire day of draining and refilling to clear the system of all the foamy antifreeze water.

Otherwise, we just bleach the system once after clearing out the antifreeze. Not sure if you are supposed to do more than that but we don't use it for drinking water, just washing and flushing. We have never used any fresh water additives. Also, make sure to use a good (non rubber) hose and an inline water filter if you don't have one built into the trailer.
__________________


Randi & Shirley
2016 Ford F-350 SRW CCSB 6.7L 4WD
2022 Forest River Vibe 26RK
rjrelander is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 07:51 AM   #6
busterbrown
Senior Member
 
busterbrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 1,659
It's recommended to use a quarter cup of bleach for every 15 gallons of freshwater. We have a 43 gallon fresh water tank. I just make it simple and use 1 cup for the process. Make sure you run each faucet (both hot and cold) until you smell the bleached water. Let it dwell overnight for 10-12 hours. Then drain the system. Refill the FW tank with clean, fresh water having run that water through each faucet too. Then drain again. Now you're system is sanitized. Should eliminate any nauseating smells.

Remember too, the source of your water can lend a hand in it smelling bad. You never know the quality of a campground's water supply until you fill up. We've had a couple of instances where the hydrogen sulfide content made the water unbearable to use. Now, when we travel within the state, I fill our FW tanks full with our local city-treated water.
__________________
2017 Keystone Bullet 308BHS in Saddle.
2017 RAM 2500 Laramie Mega Cab 4x4 Hemi 6.4L
2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali (SOLD)
Hensley SwiftArrow Control Hitch with 1000 lb Spring Bars
Me, DW, (3) little DS's, and 1 rambunctious Boston Terrier

busterbrown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 07:54 AM   #7
The John
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: West Linn, Oregon
Posts: 13
you can also use a substitute anti freezing agent depending on where you live. I live in Oregon and we rarely see below freezing temps for long periods (where I live). I use lemon scented cheap vodka for my anti freezing liquid. It works well, the lemon scent doesn't stay for long, its super easy to wash out without foaming the tank and what not.

Just my .02C.
__________________
2004 Outback 21RS
2000 F250 V10 (Will pass anything but a gas station)
Avid camper (>30 nights a year) with a hunting/fishing/outdoors problem.
The John is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 08:10 AM   #8
racetech
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 74
It smelled rotten, like bacteria was festering in it. It was bad as soon as I ran a little in the sink we stunk ourselves out for a few lol. Ill do the bleach process it sounds like my system needs it. I had filled with water at my house I have good city water i know it wasnt that. Just the lack of sanitizing im sure.
__________________
2011 Silverado Z71
2016 Keystone Passport 171EXP
racetech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 08:15 AM   #9
busterbrown
Senior Member
 
busterbrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 1,659
Quote:
Originally Posted by The John View Post
you can also use a substitute anti freezing agent depending on where you live. I live in Oregon and we rarely see below freezing temps for long periods (where I live). I use lemon scented cheap vodka for my anti freezing liquid. It works well, the lemon scent doesn't stay for long, its super easy to wash out without foaming the tank and what not.

Just my .02C.
The OP's profile says NE Ohio. I personally wouldn't leave it up to lemon scented spirits. RV Antifreeze is relatively cheap, FW safe, and works down to sub-zero temps, something a midwesterner experiences quite frequently in the winter. The pink stuff should be eliminated after a couple of fill/rinse cycles.

Oh, by no means, add RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank. Instead, use a bypass system to add the pink stuff to the fresh water lines.
__________________
2017 Keystone Bullet 308BHS in Saddle.
2017 RAM 2500 Laramie Mega Cab 4x4 Hemi 6.4L
2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali (SOLD)
Hensley SwiftArrow Control Hitch with 1000 lb Spring Bars
Me, DW, (3) little DS's, and 1 rambunctious Boston Terrier

busterbrown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 08:38 AM   #10
Park1911
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Indiana
Posts: 21
Also, it's always a good idea to start the new season with a new water heater anode rod and sediment/taste water filter that fastens to your hose.
__________________
2006 Keystone Mountaineer 342PHT
MorRyde PB & IS System
2018 RAM 3500 CC, SB, 6.7 TD, 4X4
SuperGlide 3300 Hitch
Park1911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 11:35 AM   #11
ADQ K9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Anchorage
Posts: 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by Park1911 View Post
Also, it's always a good idea to start the new season with a new water heater anode rod and sediment/taste water filter that fastens to your hose.
I pull the Anode rod out and leave it in the bottom of the water heater opening inside the door no need to replace it unless it is time for a new one. The filter is a no brainer for me. We have a whole house filtration system and the trailer tank gets filled from the house before every trip.
For de winterization I sanitize the FW tank with bleach after running all the antifreeze out. I will pump bleach through the hot/ cold faucets. I have 2 low point drains for the water heater as well as one for my FW tank
__________________
Mike
2016 Ford F350 CC 6.7 4x4 SRW (Ghost Rider)
2017 Cougar 29 RKSWE (The Tumble Weed)
Connected by a Curt 15K WDH W/Sway Control
ADQ K9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 06:22 PM   #12
mohead1
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: florida
Posts: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
The OP's profile says NE Ohio. I personally wouldn't leave it up to lemon scented spirits. RV Antifreeze is relatively cheap, FW safe, and works down to sub-zero temps, something a midwesterner experiences quite frequently in the winter. The pink stuff should be eliminated after a couple of fill/rinse cycles.



Oh, by no means, add RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank. Instead, use a bypass system to add the pink stuff to the fresh water lines.
Why is that? I put 2 gals of pink in the tank, bypass the wtr htr, run the pump and flow the antifreeze out the toilet and all faucets/shower w enough to put some in each drain trap (P or S). Worked for the last 20 yrs. Thos is of course after draining all the low point drains of fresh water.
mohead1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2019, 11:57 PM   #13
busterbrown
Senior Member
 
busterbrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 1,659
Quote:
Originally Posted by mohead1 View Post
Why is that? I put 2 gals of pink in the tank, bypass the wtr htr, run the pump and flow the antifreeze out the toilet and all faucets/shower w enough to put some in each drain trap (P or S). Worked for the last 20 yrs. Thos is of course after draining all the low point drains of fresh water.
It's not that you can't do it...obviously you have for the last 20 years. But its accepted (common) practice to bypass the fresh water tank in the winterizing process.

It's much easier to remove the anti freeze from downstream lines and fixtures than from a fresh water tank that may or may not completely empty. I know my coach's water tank usually requires at least 4 gallons before the water hits the distal end of hose on the inlet side of the pump. So in essence, after emptying the tank, it would require 6 gallons of bad tasting pink stuff in order to effectively winterize the lines. Four gallons would dwell in the FW tank and the other 2 be used in the lines.

Also, If it were accepted practice, there wouldn't be a need to engineer bypass winterizing valves into coaches. Everyone could just throw the pink stuff into the tanks and call it a day. Seems a bit wasteful and a bit bothersome to flush it out come spring. YMMV.
__________________
2017 Keystone Bullet 308BHS in Saddle.
2017 RAM 2500 Laramie Mega Cab 4x4 Hemi 6.4L
2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali (SOLD)
Hensley SwiftArrow Control Hitch with 1000 lb Spring Bars
Me, DW, (3) little DS's, and 1 rambunctious Boston Terrier

busterbrown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2019, 12:20 AM   #14
mohead1
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: florida
Posts: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
It's not that you can't do it...obviously you have for the last 20 years. But its accepted (common) practice to bypass the fresh water tank in the winterizing process.



It's much easier to remove the anti freeze from downstream lines and fixtures than from a fresh water tank that may or may not completely empty. I know my coach's water tank usually requires at least 4 gallons before the water hits the distal end of hose on the inlet side of the pump. So in essence, after emptying the tank, it would require 6 gallons of bad tasting pink stuff in order to effectively winterize the lines. Four gallons would dwell in the FW tank and the other 2 be used in the lines.



Also, If it were accepted practice, there wouldn't be a need to engineer bypass winterizing valves into coaches. Everyone could just throw the pink stuff into the tanks and call it a day. Seems a bit wasteful and a bit bothersome to flush it out come spring. YMMV.
I can see if your tank suction is that high, but two gals does mine w no problem.....then after winter, fill a put 1/2 the fresh water tank w potable water, run all the lines using the pump until clear, drain the low point drains...waa laa....its ready to go. Takes 30 min tops either way, winter or de-winter
mohead1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2019, 07:18 AM   #15
BoondockingBakers
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 11
We had the same problem this year and we've had our trailer for 5 years with no issues. We were told by Camping World to make sure we drain our hot water heater if not using for a couple of weeks as that is where a lot of the smell can come from. We are going to drain the hot water heater and use the bleach process as advised.
BoondockingBakers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2019, 07:27 AM   #16
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,841
Water heaters can "sulfate" (create a sulfur compound) that can cause the hot water to "sour". There is a procedure in the Dometic and the Atwood owner's manuals to clean/neutralize this process. It's a chemical reaction that occurs with water containing specific elements, so some people with water that doesn't have those elements will never see the problem while others will have to deal with it every season.

Check the owner's manual for "why does my water smell bad?"
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2019, 08:01 AM   #17
BadmanRick
Senior Member
 
BadmanRick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lehigh Acres
Posts: 176
If you live in an area where it Freezes I would suggest emptying all water tanks and blowing out the system with compressed air. Learn no water in the system. Then when you are ready to go camping flush the system with bleach.
__________________
Rick and Sandy
2017 Toyota Platinum Tundra 4X4
2011 Bullet Premier 19FBPR
BadmanRick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2019, 02:35 PM   #18
Ksupaul
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 124
Had same rotten egg, sulfer, bacteria smell too in previous trailer. Found out came from hot water heater. Found a bad anode rod and realized we left water in it between trips. Got a hose to stick in tank and clean sediment out. There was a ton of black sooty looking sediment we got out. From that point got a new anode and drained it after each trip at same time I’m dumping tanks. Never have had an issue again.
Ksupaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2019, 07:55 AM   #19
SR71 Jet Mech
Senior Member
 
SR71 Jet Mech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greenwood
Posts: 176
I also used to be a bleach or chlorine user for sanitizing my fresh tank. I now after talking with some water treatment folks, use hydrogen peroxide in my fresh water tank. Does a much better job of killing bacteria and much safer for contact of humans, dogs, cats etc.....
also need much less than chlorine. Doesn’t smell either....

Scott
__________________
2016 Keystone Sprinter 298FWRLS
2021 Ram 3500 DRW CC LB HO Aisin 4.10 50 gal.
Anderson 5th wheel hitch

SR71 Jet Mech is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
water

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.