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03-18-2016, 07:10 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Dexter Ga
Posts: 130
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12 v issue
During our weekend trip I had trouble with my 12 volt lights. Battery was dead but with shore line plugged in, I had to flip the converter breaker on and of to get working. Later discovered if I left at least one light on, it continued to work fine. We left the stove light on the rest of the weekend and had no more problems. After coming home and checking it, if I turn all lights off then sometimes I have to flip breaker to get back working. Bad converter??? Any help will be greatly appreciated. By the way, I have 2006 Springdale 256rll with a 8935 wf converter.
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03-19-2016, 01:40 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chico, California
Posts: 296
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Was the battery dead because of the converter not charging, or is it an old worn out battery(s)? Theoretically the converter is supposed to work in an unballasted condition but I've never actually tried it. Based on your description I suspect the converter, but I would ascertain the battery health first.
__________________
2011 F-350 C.C. 4X4 LWB 6.7PSD
2010 Montana Mountaineer 345DBQ
2005 F150 FX4
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03-19-2016, 03:29 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Dexter Ga
Posts: 130
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Sorry, I failed to mention battery was bad but I had the same problem with the battery disconnected. Converter is showing 13.6 volts when it's working. It's just getting it going that is the issue.
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03-20-2016, 06:17 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 82
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My WF converter did some weird stuff like that... Not putting anything out, and then it would start putting out volts and a strange high pitched noise (almost one that only a dog would hear)... And then the noise would go away and it would continue to work for a while...
Early in the morning - when it's been a while since any 12v usage has occurred, the process would repeat...
I said, "fuhghettaboutit" and simply bought a Progressive Dynamics converter and solved the problem with a way better product.
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03-20-2016, 07:13 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 692
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Converter
We had to replace our converter at the end of last summer. Similar, however not the same symptoms. Have you attempted to put a known, healthy fully charged battery in, then see how it acts? I'm suspecting bad converter, however a badly damaged battery can make them act real squirrel y as well.
__________________
2011 F350 DRW 4X4
"The Beast"
2011 Cougar 325 SRX 
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03-20-2016, 09:33 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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Since you already know that you need a new battery, why not replace that first and then see what happens from there?  If the bad battery is the cause of the converter failure, you may ruin a new converter. If you have been removing and then reconnecting the battery check the fuses on the converter that protect polarity and see if they are blown.
__________________
 Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD  .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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03-20-2016, 11:03 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,671
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A bad battery will cause the converter to do weird stuff and will definitely cause the output to fluctuate. I had a bad battery (unknown) and I kept ruining 12v only LEDs. Found the bad battery, removed it (had a good one put in place) and voila!, no more weird converter "stuff" and LEDs quit flickering and dying.
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03-20-2016, 01:35 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 82
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The "bad battery" conversation can go both ways....
Is the bad battery causing the converter to do weird things?
OR
Is the (bad) converter doing weird things causing the battery to go bad?
Replacing the battery, you may end up with TWO bad batteries and the same behavior in the converter.
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03-20-2016, 04:03 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,671
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Obviously I think you should check your converter output. In my case, with one battery case bulged and two cells dead while the other one was just fine it was pretty clear what my problem was. I didn't know the battery was bad and it definitely affected the converter/DC output to the rest of the trailer.
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03-22-2016, 03:27 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Taylor,TX
Posts: 115
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You cannot run your converter without a battery connected, or it will die. I suppose you could assume the same if the battery was bad.
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03-22-2016, 04:53 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy_z
You cannot run your converter without a battery connected, or it will die. I suppose you could assume the same if the battery was bad.
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The WFCO website has a lot of very good information about operation and maintenance/troubleshooting their products. One of the FAQ's is this:
"Does the converter need a battery to operate?
No. The battery works in conjunction with the converter to supply DC power to the RV. A battery is typically only necessary if you do a lot of dry camping or have slide-outs and/or a leveling system."
The only time you need a battery connected is if you'll have a "large load" on the system. That's usually operating a slide or a self leveling system. Otherwise, the converter will provide up to 55 amps of 12 volt power without a battery in the system.
The website FAQ's are here: http://wfcoelectronics.com/faq/#tab-56f1e770d86eb
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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