Bottle Jack

[IA-Outdoors]

I've got a trip to South Dakota planned and I'm doing all my "worst case" scenario planning. Tries on the 2920BH are a year old and look good as does the spare and I keep them covered when I store it (outside) in the winter. I don't plan on any issues *but* debris, etc is always a concern. I have a bottle jack and I think that should suffice if I need to replace a tire on the trailer but wanted to see what some of you more seasoned vets think.

Thanks in advance,

--Tony

[therink]

Yes, I carry a bottle jack, plenty blocks of wood, 3/4" drive socket with extention to remove lugs and a torque wrench.

[bsmith0404]

I carry/use a bottle jack as well (12 ton), but test the height. I also have to carry a wooden block which I made with 2x10s. I have 6 of them screwed together to give me the height I need to raise my camper.

[notanlines]

IA, the most frequent bit of advice given on here concerning changing a flat is this: Actually park your trailer in a parking lot or in your drive and change a tire. (Also keep in mind that the axle is going to be about 5 inches lower because the tire will be FLAT!) That way you know what you're up against.

[chuckster57]

Along with a jack and wrenches, I now carry a small metal saw. I had a blow out in '09 just east of Terra Haute. The tire shredded and wrapped itself around the backing plate. I ended up using a serrated kitchen knife and spent a little more than an hour cutting tire off enough to remove the rim and what was left.

[bobbecky]

I purchased a kit of hydraulic jack accessories from BMI, their Safejack line. USA made and very solid, eliminates the unsafe need for a stack of blocks to jack a trailer or other vehicle. http://safejacks.com/collections/bot...ck-accessories

[buzzcop63]

I would add to the above an AC/DC tire compressor as the spare is almost always low on PSI, a camco trailer aid 21 tandem tire changer, it is light and it works. Also for those who use any type of hydraulic jack to lift their trailer or truck, these units are lifting devices only; they are not meant to hold a load safely. Get it up in the air and then use a stand or blocks before getting your body under any part that can come down if the jack fails.

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by therink

Yes, I carry a bottle jack, plenty blocks of wood, 3/4" drive socket with extention to remove lugs and a torque wrench.

Just noticed you mentioned a 3/4" drive wrench. Did you mean 1/2" drive? 3/4" is pretty big for the task.

[therink]

Originally Posted by Desert185

Just noticed you mentioned a 3/4" drive wrench. Did you mean 1/2" drive? 3/4" is pretty big for the task.

Oops, yes meant 1/2"

[Hans Jr]

also make sure your bottle jack will fit underneath the axle when flat and isnt too tall. we had our first blowout within the first 3 hours of driving and i found out rather quickly i didnt have the right socket and the bottle jack in my truck was about 5" too tall to fit underneath since the tire was blown out.

just what we went thru earlier this year.

[Sparky]

I carry a bottle jack and use my lego blocks to reach the frame. I've had 2 flats and for both I used the tire changing ramp I bought. Best $30 I ever spent. All I do is put the ramp on a 2x6 and drive up. Tire that requires changing is off the ground.

[Barbell]

Keep in mind that Lippert and Dexter (folks who make the axles for most rv trailers) both say don't jack on the axle; only use the frame. Obviously, that means more blocks to reach the frame with your jack.

[Desert185]

That's true, but you aren't raising the trailer, you are only jacking on the axle u-bolt just inside the brake drum to compress the spring enough to change the tire. If this is all you jack, then the axle won't be damaged.

To give yourself enough clearance for changing the tire, this may be necessary on the adjacent tire to provide more lift:

http://www.andersenhitches.com/Produ...apid-jack.aspx

When I installed wetbolts, the trailer frame didn't need to be lifted at all, BTW.

[PerryB]

Originally Posted by Barbell

Keep in mind that Lippert and Dexter (folks who make the axles for most rv trailers) both say don't jack on the axle; only use the frame. Obviously, that means more blocks to reach the frame with your jack.

I will never understand the logic (or lack thereof ) in jacking it up by the frame. Talk about a concentrated stress point. Lifting it by the axle keeps the pressure points where they belong. From what I've seen from Lippert, they actually know very little about engineering or building trailer frames. My last trailer had multiple shears built into it where the spring hangers were welded on without gussets, directly abeam the body mounts. Of course the frame cracked and of course they had no idea what I was talking about. Interestingly enough, the next year they started gusseting the suspension attach points. I have my own farm/fab shop so I repaired and modified it myself since it was just (like 1 month) out of warranty and Lippert had zero interest in fixing it. Also their weld quality is universally poor. My fifteen year old son is a far better welder/fabricator than anybody Lippert has on staff. Sorry for going somewhat off topic. Rant over.

PS -- As far as the axle being low due to the flat, back it up on a couple 2x6s before jacking it up.

[bsmith0404]

I think the main concern they have with jacking on the axle is jacking in the middle of the axle not where the springs attach. The axle tubes are not meant to lift the RV and will bend. Yes the attaching point at the spring already supports the weight and by jacking at the spring it is essentially spreading the weight across to the frame at the spring attachment points. Personally, I just prefer to jack at the frame with a bottle jack, I can do that either ahead or behind the tire (depending if it is front or rear axle) without having to get in behind the tire. A bottle jack is small/compact and easy to carry with me.

[MarkS]

If you go the jack the frame route, be aware that the springs will droop, and you will need to lift more than you think.

I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. I carry a trailer aid ramp and a bottle jack.

It's also a good idea to carry a breaker bar for your socket. Keeps you from having to jump up and down on your ratchet.

Remember to check the lug torque. Several times after a tire change.

[audio1der]

I bought an 8ton unit and used it to take all 4 wheels off while it sat in our gravel storage spot, in order to have the tires changed. Placing it under each of the u-bolts, it worked like a charm to quickly lift that end of the axle.
Always good to practice somewhere near home before yo uhave to do it on the side of the road at night in the rain

[b.d.keathley]

Call me crazy but I thought a bottle jack was gay. I use a 3ton floor jack. Is that not needed? If not ill switch to a bottle. I always thought they were dangerous.

[Exsailor]

Well call me crazy too but after changing a tire on the side of the hiway I ponied up the 3 bucks to my insurance for roadside assist. Yes they take an hour or two to get there but Ill get a coke out of the cooler, a chair, and a cigar and just wait for them. I still carry a bottlejack but never use it. Same with my truck. 3 bucks a month? Ill wait.

[chuckster57]

To each their own. Since I travel with cats, I can't sit on the side of the road for a long time. The sooner I'm leveled and slides out, the sooner they settle in.