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Old 04-11-2019, 07:11 AM   #61
JRTJH
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Originally Posted by Old Mustanger View Post
I have 2 group 24 house batteries and 2 group 27 batteries connected to the fridge inverter. Thought I had a pretty good setup but y'all have given me something else to think about installing. Never ends does it?
Jerry,

If your batteries use a "common charger" then you're either going to "burn up the GP24's or undercharge the GP27's".

That said, ALL batteries connected to a common charger are charged to the same limit. If a battery in the system is "weaker" it will be overcharged. If a battery in the system is larger/stronger than the rest, it will never be fully charged.

If your refrigerator and house batteries are "separate and use two different chargers" then they are "charged individually" meaning the GP24's are charged by one charger and the GP27's are charged by a different charger. On some Keystone models with residential refrigerators, the reefer battery is charged by the "inverter/charger" and that system is separate from the house batteries. If that is the situation with your installed system, then you may be OK.

On some other models, there is only an "inverter" (no charger) and the "main converter/charger" charges all the batteries. WFCO doesn't produce a "dual charger model" so if you've got a WFCO converter charger and a refrigerator inverter (without a charging system) then all your batteries should be the same capacity, same size and same age.

I don't know which system you have, so the above may not be applicable to your specific equipment, then again, it may apply and you may have a "pending problem" with two different size batteries connected to the same charger.
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Old 04-11-2019, 07:37 AM   #62
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His Alpine has the standard WFCO 1000 watt inverter. It’s batteries are charged by the main converter.

He’s got a decent setup. But the circuit just absolutely ... my opinion ... needs an isolator.

This could be installed in less than an hour by the OP. He’s just gotta find the kind he wants... and there are many with various prices.
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Old 04-11-2019, 08:11 AM   #63
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As I contemplate adding an inverter and batteries some day in my trailer, lots of great info in here
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Old 04-11-2019, 11:50 AM   #64
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As I contemplate adding an inverter and batteries some day in my trailer, lots of great info in here


I just got done removing the single group 27 and replacing with 6 6V batteries. Unplugged the converter and installed a Magnum 2000W inverter/charger. 1/2 of his 50A breaker panel is powered on inverter or shore power. He wanted to watch TV and use a coffee pot while dry camping. Inverter has 100W charger built in.

If you get to that point feel free to PM me for help.
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Old 04-11-2019, 07:20 PM   #65
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Well got the slides out, but have some serious clicking (skipping) before they start rolling out. After some searching here, it seems according to posts the batteries might be shot and not have enough in them to engage the clutches? Is this still a possibility?
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Old 04-11-2019, 07:44 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckS View Post
His Alpine has the standard WFCO 1000 watt inverter. It’s batteries are charged by the main converter.

He’s got a decent setup. But the circuit just absolutely ... my opinion ... needs an isolator.

This could be installed in less than an hour by the OP. He’s just gotta find the kind he wants... and there are many with various prices.
If I understand what you're saying and what Old Mustanger said, then essentially, he has 4 batteries tied to his WFCO charger. They all are "on the same charging circuit" and two are GP24 size and two are GP27 size batteries. The WFCO system doesn't have the capability to charge two banks of batteries independently, so all his batteries are receiving the same charge amperage for the same length of time.

If that is what he actually has electrically connected, 4 batteries in parallel on the charge circuit, then his WFCO is either overcharging the GP24's, undercharging the GP27's or both.

Putting an isolator in the circuit will prevent the "house batteries" from discharging when the refrigerator part of the system draws down too low, but the isolator won't help "equalize the charge condition" on any of the batteries, at least that's the way I understand how battery isolators work on a multiple battery system. Essentially, the isolator prevents inadvertent discharge of the "protected battery" but the isolator doesn't have any effect on the charging status. Maybe I'm missing something in the conversation ????
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Old 04-11-2019, 08:02 PM   #67
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I think the first thing I'm going to do is determine exactly what my converter and inverter are capable of doing for sure. Haven't had any issues yet (have had this trailer a little over a year now) but I do want to head off any possible trouble. I do hook up 2 separate trickle chargers when parked in the driveway and I have noticed that the one connected to the 24's goes to maintenance mode before the other one.
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Old 04-11-2019, 08:03 PM   #68
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Well got the slides out, but have some serious clicking (skipping) before they start rolling out. After some searching here, it seems according to posts the batteries might be shot and not have enough in them to engage the clutches? Is this still a possibility?
Justin,

If you have cable slides, it's likely to be the battery. If, on the other hand, you have ram operated slides (located under the trailer and through holes in the frame rail) then the "clicking at the start of extension" may be the bell adjustment. If that's your slide type, look under the trailer and see if the brass colored "bell" on the follower ram is too tight against the seat when the slide is retracted. If so, you can adjust it to eliminate the binding which is causing the clicking.
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Old 04-11-2019, 08:59 PM   #69
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Interesting post, sorry for your problems. I pulled a friends TT toy hauler a 30 footer around 12,000 lbs according to the owner 3 years ago and noted the brake controller was flashing NO connection. After a long time and 70 miles the owner found the break away was fried. It had a wire shorted out on the frame. Cost for a new 1 was 15 bucks. Sounds like if yours was fried the brakes never locked. I knew his did not lock up as I pulled it up a 6% grade on the I-84 at the cabbage hill at 65 to 50 mph at the top. Than on to another 50 miles before we got stopped in a town and had figured out why no brakes where working.
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Old 04-12-2019, 01:24 AM   #70
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Justin,

If you have cable slides, it's likely to be the battery. If, on the other hand, you have ram operated slides (located under the trailer and through holes in the frame rail) then the "clicking at the start of extension" may be the bell adjustment. If that's your slide type, look under the trailer and see if the brass colored "bell" on the follower ram is too tight against the seat when the slide is retracted. If so, you can adjust it to eliminate the binding which is causing the clicking.
Awesome thanks! It is the ram set up so I’ll be crawling under this morn.
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Old 04-12-2019, 01:28 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia View Post
Interesting post, sorry for your problems. I pulled a friends TT toy hauler a 30 footer around 12,000 lbs according to the owner 3 years ago and noted the brake controller was flashing NO connection. After a long time and 70 miles the owner found the break away was fried. It had a wire shorted out on the frame. Cost for a new 1 was 15 bucks. Sounds like if yours was fried the brakes never locked. I knew his did not lock up as I pulled it up a 6% grade on the I-84 at the cabbage hill at 65 to 50 mph at the top. Than on to another 50 miles before we got stopped in a town and had figured out why no brakes where working.
Yeah it’s been interesting for sure. Brakes have always worked fine, and still do. I have wiring to re-route now, poor job on their part IMO.

Wife is just happy to have it back and ready for a coast trip in May.
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Old 04-12-2019, 11:50 PM   #72
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I’m pretty sure the Alpine 3661 has hydraulic slides, and the clicking noise you are hearing is very likely the solenoid for the hydraulic motor as it tries to engage, but a low voltage is causing it to have issues. I know my Avalanche has had similar issues when I let the battery get too low. The cure? CHARGE YOUR RV BATTERIES and make sure you have a good set of batteries.
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:25 PM   #73
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I’m pretty sure the Alpine 3661 has hydraulic slides, and the clicking noise you are hearing is very likely the solenoid for the hydraulic motor as it tries to engage, but a low voltage is causing it to have issues. I know my Avalanche has had similar issues when I let the battery get too low. The cure? CHARGE YOUR RV BATTERIES and make sure you have a good set of batteries.
You are correct the 2 middle slides are hydro. Batteries are “fully” charged, but as brought out earlier, they might not be in the best shape after spending time with no charging at dealer, I’ll need to have them tested.
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Old 05-19-2019, 02:55 AM   #74
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Here is my story. While making a sharp 180 degree turn at a truck stop fueling station, the breakaway cable got caught on the 5th wheel sliding hitch (Pullrite). As I straitened out the trailer, the safety pin was pulled out causing the tires to lock up. The locked tires would not let the auto sliding feature move which led to the 5th wheel jaws breaking and releasing the pin box. Ouch! I was wondering if your safety release pin might also have been accidentally engaged. If the current flowing to the electric brakes is not corrected after several minutes, the safety switch is likely to overheat and melt. Remember that when the pin is pulled, a full 12 volts is being sent to the brakes. Your breakaway switch issue may only been present in the dealer's lot.
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Old 05-19-2019, 05:05 AM   #75
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Here is my story. While making a sharp 180 degree turn at a truck stop fueling station, the breakaway cable got caught on the 5th wheel sliding hitch (Pullrite). As I straitened out the trailer, the safety pin was pulled out causing the tires to lock up. The locked tires would not let the auto sliding feature move which led to the 5th wheel jaws breaking and releasing the pin box. Ouch! I was wondering if your safety release pin might also have been accidentally engaged. If the current flowing to the electric brakes is not corrected after several minutes, the safety switch is likely to overheat and melt. Remember that when the pin is pulled, a full 12 volts is being sent to the brakes. Your breakaway switch issue may only been present in the dealer's lot.
I don’t think I’ll ever know what happened. Brakes never locked up. They worked great for over 5000 miles. I just need to reroute the wiring they redid.
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