Added an EMS-HW30C to the 22RBPR

[B-O-B'03]

It was fairly easy to do, find a mounting spot was the hardest part.

The converter is under the pantry and the cuby for the cord storage is between that space and the outside wall.





I cut the power cord, leaving enough to go from the distribution panel to the EMS and still be able to have it pulled out of the space.



The pantry wall has a chase-way, for all the 12 and 120 volt wiring, so I ran the remote display cable through that and mounted it on the outside of the pantry wall.



After it was hooked up I tested it, before mounting the display and noticed it was showing there was only 113 volts, so I got my DVM to compare and it said 120.

I called the Progressive Industries tech support line and they are shipping me a new logic board for it.

I will report back after I get that installed.

I am also going to add another 120V outlet, with 2 USB power ports in it, in the same wall, since there is no power available in that area.

-Brian

[SloMo]

Nice clean install [emoji106]🏽


Maurice

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by SloMo

Nice clean install [emoji106]🏽

Maurice

Thanks Maurice.

I received the new logic board, from Progressive Industries, on Friday and installed it Saturday.

The voltage reading was closer than the initial board, but still did not agree with my DVM.

I looked at the board and there was a potentiometer on it so I tweaked it and it adjusted the voltage reading on the remote display ... problem solved

I took a picture of the new outlet while I was out there.



-Brian

[Yosemitebob]

Nice job Brian. Where is the potentiometer located, on the new board? I noticed mine says 117v and I read with my meter 120v.

[bill-e]

If I had it to do over I would have purchased a portable unit.

Two things with the HW unit.

1. It will not work with an external generator without purchasing or making a plug which grounds neutral. I foolishly did not test this until I tried to use our generator last week and it wouldn't work. I had to rewire around the unit for that trip. I called PI and they told me that I needed their "Generator Plug" for $18 and $11 shipping. It works with the plug.

2. My Yamaha will not run my AC now. PI unit gives a PE4 error. I'm sure the unit is acting like it's supposed to but now I have no AC while on generator.

[Rick]

Great job on the install, Brian. I just ordered one and I'm waiting for it to arrive.

bille-e...You're saying your AC doesn't work now with the HW unit. Is that with or without the "generator plug", or both? Did the AC run on 15A before? The "generator adapter" is a 15A adapter. Might have to make a 30A one.
Rick

[bill-e]

Originally Posted by Rick

Great job on the install, Brian. I just ordered one and I'm waiting for it to arrive.

bille-e...You're saying your AC doesn't work now with the HW unit. Is that with or without the "generator plug", or both?

Rick

First off, Brian, great install. I installed mine in a compartment under my bathroom sink where the cable storage is.

Rick,
One needs to generator plug to get any power to the camper. Without it the PI unit gives an "Open Ground" fault and does not provide any power.

So with the plug attached, the AC causes the line voltage to drop upon startup which causes the PI unit to disconnect power from the camper.

It is probably not a good condition for my AC so I cant complain about what's happening but with a portable unit I just would not hook it up to my generator. This will probably cause me to sell my generator and go bigger.

[bill-e]

Originally Posted by Rick

....... The "generator adapter" is a 15A adapter. Might have to make a 30A one.
Rick

The adapter just plugs into one of the outlets and I believe grounds neutral....you do not plug the camper power cord into it. I plug my power cord into a 30-15 amp adapter and then into the generator outlet.

My Yamaha EF2400iSHC ran my last camper with ease, this one, though I believe that it is still a 13,500btu unit, would take a bit to get it to start without overloading the generator, but once started would stay running forever.

[Rick]

Bill,
Understand it now. I don't have a generator large enough to run AC (yet), but it's something to plan for in the future. I'll have to come up with some type of work-around.

Thanks for the info.

Rick

Towards the end of this page is how to make your own.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by Yosemitebob

Nice job Brian. Where is the potentiometer located, on the new board? I noticed mine says 117v and I read with my meter 120v.

Thanks Yosemitebob.

The potentiometer is a blue square, on the edge of the board, with a slotted screw head facing out, as you are looking into the box with the cover off.

With the EMS oriented like I have it installed the board it at the top of the box and the pot is about in the middle, very easy to find and I did not have to turn it very much to get it dialed in... maybe a quarter turn, clockwise, or less.

Originally Posted by bill-e

If I had it to do over I would have purchased a portable unit.

Two things with the HW unit.

1. It will not work with an external generator without purchasing or making a plug which grounds neutral. I foolishly did not test this until I tried to use our generator last week and it wouldn't work. I had to rewire around the unit for that trip. I called PI and they told me that I needed their "Generator Plug" for $18 and $11 shipping. It works with the plug.

2. My Yamaha will not run my AC now. PI unit gives a PE4 error. I'm sure the unit is acting like it's supposed to but now I have no AC while on generator.

Hi bill-e,

I bought this plug, at home depot, for a couple of bucks



And used a piece of copper ground wire from the romex I bought to add the new outlet and tied the neutral and ground lugs together on it.

I have a Champion 3100 watt inverter generator that has a 30 amp RV socket and a 15 amp duplex outlet, I plan on plugging the orange plug into the duplex outlet and that should solve the open ground problem for the EMS.

Also, the remote display has a bypass switch on it, for times when you want to run your generator and not bother with the open ground issue.

You did not mention the capacity of your Yamaha, so maybe it is a good thing(tm) that the EMS would not let anything pass?

I have not tried the AC, with the generator and the EMS yet, so I might be in the same boat as you... guess what I will be doing tomorrow

Thanks,

-Brian

[bill-e]

OK, I did not realize that the switch on the remote was actually an on/off for the unit. I thought it was just for the display. PI never told me that I could bypass the protection by flicking that switch. I did bypass it and I was able to run my AC. Turning it back on caused the same low line voltage fault so running the AC with the generator (2400w) is probably not good for the AC unit.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by bill-e

OK, I did not realize that the switch on the remote was actually an on/off for the unit. I thought it was just for the display. PI never told me that I could bypass the protection by flicking that switch. I did bypass it and I was able to run my AC. Turning it back on caused the same low line voltage fault so running the AC with the generator (2400w) is probably not good for the AC unit.

Bill,

Turning on the EMS does not consume any amperage (it's a negligible current draw device) so turning it on or leaving it off wouldn't affect your "low voltage condition". What's happening is that you're using a 2400 watt peak generator to power your trailer which is too small of a generator to power the electrical system plus the air conditioner. As soon as you turn on the A/C, the generator "overloads" and voltage drops. You need a larger generator to power everything that's operating in your trailer (especially when you turn on the A/C).

The Yamaha 2400 watt generator is rated at 2400 watts peak, 2000 watts continuous. That's 16.6 amps continuous. When you consider that your converter, at the time you plug your trailer into the generator will draw approximately 5-9 amps (depending on battery condition) that only leaves 8-11 amps for the remainder of your trailer. Should you have the water heater, refrigerator, or any other "plug in" device also in use, it would be even less power available to the A/C.

The A/C requires approximately 16 amps to start and about 11 amps to run, so you can see that your trailer is drawing the full 16.6 amp generator output and needs another 5-9 amps as well. This is the reason for the low voltage condition and is why the EMS is shutting down power (to protect your trailer electrical system). If you should "bypass the EMS", your A/C will start, but you'll probably burn it up (along with the generator if it doesn't shut off automatically) in a fairly short time.

You are correct in stating that you need a larger generator. The one you currently have is "ok" to run the trailer when the A/C is not in use, but it's simply too small to operate the load you're connecting to it.

The EMS you installed, while it won't work with your current setup, is telling you that it's an "unsafe condition" because the input power source is "too small" for the load".

I suppose you could say that it's identified a poor power source, your generator that can't keep up with the load......

[Rick]

I wonder if this would help for that situation-

Hard start capacitor

Rick

[bill-e]

John, yes, I know that about the PI unit. My comment was simply that when I through it back into the circuit it registered the low voltage condition and disconnected the power.

I know the generator will run everything else, including the AC on fan mode. I use propane for hot water when dry camping.

I just have to convince myself that AC for a couple of times a year is worth spending $2k. I'm listing my Yamaha on Craig's List to see if I can sell it.

Thanks
Bill

[bill-e]

Originally Posted by Rick

I wonder if this would help for that situation-

Hard start capacitor

Rick

Rick, that might help with starting but would not affect the running current. I've been looking at that and if I decide not to upgrade I may try it.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by bill-e

John, yes, I know that about the PI unit. My comment was simply that when I through it back into the circuit it registered the low voltage condition and disconnected the power.

I know the generator will run everything else, including the AC on fan mode. I use propane for hot water when dry camping.

I just have to convince myself that AC for a couple of times a year is worth spending $2k. I'm listing my Yamaha on Craig's List to see if I can sell it.

Thanks
Bill

Hi Bill,

I bought my Champion, 3100 peak - 2800 run inverter generator at Costco and it was $699 + tax and free shipping.

I went out and tested it with the EMS today, started it up, plugged in my little orange ground adapter and the RV power cord, went in and turned the main breaker on... waited for the converter to realize the batteries were full and then turned on the AC.

The fan came on first, total current draw was 3 - 4 amps and then the compressor came on, bringing total current up to 18 - 19 amps (15K AC unit). I let it run for an hour, with no issues and it pulled the camper internal temp down from 96 to 81 and total current had dropped to 15 amps.

I realize I do not have a lot of head room, but most of our camping is of the dry variety and hopefully not in a place where the generator is a requirement, but, I am glad it will run the AC if we need it and we can use it to charge the batteries and run the party lights

-Brian

[bill-e]

Brian, good for you!

I will likely only upgrade if I sell my current unit (or my daughter talks me into giving it to her).

I think we'd like to do a little more dry camping because the state parks are so nice up here. Now that I don't have a hybrid which required us (meaning my wife) to bring a lot of extra stuff and making setup/takedown a real chore we can likely go out on more short dry overnights local to us.

I still work, out of town most every week so not a lot of time for long camping outings.

Bill