GM duramax cp4 settlement

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by Stircrazy

that is one weird looking filter, where is that located on the truck?

The filter/water separator is the first of 2 in line filters. The 2nd is located near the firewall next to the power brake booster.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by firestation12

The filter/water separator is the first of 2 in line filters. The 2nd is located near the firewall next to the power brake booster.

WOW, just watched a video on changing those Ford fuel filters, glad I have a Ram Cummins! Rear is a simple spin on canister, with a screw in water sensor. The front is a drop in element, screw off the cap and swap element, after draining the element bowl.

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

WOW, just watched a video on changing those Ford fuel filters, glad I have a Ram Cummins! Rear is a simple spin on canister, with a screw in water sensor. The front is a drop in element, screw off the cap and swap element, after draining the element bowl.

The important take away isn’t what your truck manufacturer designed to filter the fuel, it’s that we need to adhere to a strict standard of maintaining fuel, oil, and air filters. Newer diesel engines with EPA required EGR systems, cannot be idled for long periods, oil change intervals should not exceed 7500 miles…preferably not more than 5,000, regardless of using synthetics (which claim 15,000 mile protection). One thing I like about my Ford’s fuel filter, is I can easily see what it’s collecting. I’m more careful of where I buy fuel locally. A quick comment about being glad Ram trucks have an easy to change spin on fuel filter, there’s that pesky oil filter that sits behind the wheel well liner that makes up for it. We all have our crosses to bear.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by firestation12

The important take away isn’t what your truck manufacturer designed to filter the fuel, it’s that we need to adhere to a strict standard of maintaining fuel, oil, and air filters. Newer diesel engines with EPA required EGR systems, cannot be idled for long periods, oil change intervals should not exceed 7500 miles…preferably not more than 5,000, regardless of using synthetics (which claim 15,000 mile protection). One thing I like about my Ford’s fuel filter, is I can easily see what it’s collecting. I’m more careful of where I buy fuel locally. A quick comment about being glad Ram trucks have an easy to change spin on fuel filter, there’s that pesky oil filter that sits behind the wheel well liner that makes up for it. We all have our crosses to bear.

Well changing the oil filter on our Ram is not all that difficult. A simple little tool from Geno’s garage that seals the top of the filter makes for a no mess change.
While I would need to cut open the primary fuel filter to see how dirty it is, the secondary is a drop in, so very visible as to dirt.

Ram has a 15,000 mile oil change interval, heck was doing 10,000 miles on our 2001. When I developed a oil leak at just over 300,000 miles on the 2001, when I pulled the tappet cover, clean as a whistle.

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Well changing the oil filter on our Ram is not all that difficult. A simple little tool from Geno’s garage that seals the top of the filter makes for a no mess change.
While I would need to cut open the primary fuel filter to see how dirty it is, the secondary is a drop in, so very visible as to dirt.

Ram has a 15,000 mile oil change interval, heck was doing 10,000 miles on our 2001. When I developed a oil leak at just over 300,000 miles on the 2001, when I pulled the tappet cover, clean as a whistle.

The difference now and 2001 is the 2001 era trucks didn’t have EGR. You won’t see 300,000 on today’s new trucks doing 15k oil changes. See posts from Dave’s auto on YouTube. Dave is a major engine rebuilder in Circleville Utah. Lake Speed (yes that’s his real name) does thousands of oil analysis on a dyno. You can find his videos on YouTube as well. IMHO, unless you are doing oil
analysis with every oil change, doing extended mileage oil changes is risky ownership in newer diesel trucks. The buil cost on my newly order truck will exceed 100k. I’ll happily pay for a few extra service stops.

[Stircrazy]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

It is in the lower filter housing/water separator under the truck (diesel 6.7L) mounted to the forward end of the fuel tank.

ok that's a different unit than I have on my 6.7, what year is your truck? They must have made a change at some point. I have one with a drain valve against the frame rail by the drivers seat, that a bowl unscrews and you change the element inside, then the one on top of the engine.

this is the replacement kit for my 2014.

https://www.amazon.ca/Separator-Powe.../dp/B07TNP7LST

[NH_Bulldog]

That type of fuel filter I showed a picture of is for the Ford 6.7L and used on 2017 and up models of that motor

[Stircrazy]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

That type of fuel filter I showed a picture of is for the Ford 6.7L and used on 2017 and up models of that motor

I wonder why they changed to that for the first filter, the style like I have been using with the racor element has been working perfect for 50 years. that just looks like a synthetic furnace filter type of media now..

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Stircrazy

I wonder why they changed to that for the first filter, the style like I have been using with the racor element has been working perfect for 50 years. that just looks like a synthetic furnace filter type of media now..

Changing filter canister shape can be needed in "design engineering" for just about any reason. It could be as simple as needing to meet a requirement for specific square inches of filter media from some "research testing", or from having to redesign the fuel tank to make room for a bed corner step or from a loss of some obscure regulation buried in the bowels of some government document.... Who knows the "why" when it comes to changes in filter shape, size or location. My 2004 Mustang air cleaner changed in 2005, but same engine, same basic hood layout, just a "different air filter canister and element.

I was changing all my filters on the truck last week, getting ready for winter and I always use Motorcraft filters. Anyway, I changed the engine mounted 4 micron filter canister as usual, then purged the fuel lines and when I turned on the ignition, the fuel pump started, about 3 or 4 seconds later, I heard a "pop" under the hood, wasn't sure what it was, so I shut down the ignition, got out and peeked under the hood. The ENTIRE top had blown off the filter canister and diesel was "everywhere". After cleaning things up and going to town to get a new filter kit (Ford doesn't sell the filters separately any longer), I got the truck running without any more problems....

SCARES me to think what could have happened if that canister had come unglued while towing with a "hot engine".... I'd suspect the good probability of the truck "burning to the ground as diesel sprayed on the "glowing red turbo"....

The dealership didn't seem to be too concerned about the failed part. I took photos and reported it to Ford Customer Service and also to NHTSA as a safety concern.

Seems way back in time, I think I remember that canister originally had a locking bar or something that went over the top of the canister to hold it in place... Also, back then, the canister had 3 ports, two used in replacement filters and the third used at the factory (probably to bleed the fuel system) while the truck goes down the assembly line....

Anyway, if you change your own filters, listen for a "pop" while bleeding the system after changing the fuel filters.

[Stircrazy]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Changing filter canister shape can be needed in "design engineering" for just about any reason. It could be as simple as needing to meet a requirement for specific square inches of filter media from some "research testing", or from having to redesign the fuel tank to make room for a bed corner step or from a loss of some obscure regulation buried in the bowels of some government document.... Who knows the "why" when it comes to changes in filter shape, size or location. My 2004 Mustang air cleaner changed in 2005, but same engine, same basic hood layout, just a "different air filter canister and element.

I was changing all my filters on the truck last week, getting ready for winter and I always use Motorcraft filters. Anyway, I changed the engine mounted 4 micron filter canister as usual, then purged the fuel lines and when I turned on the ignition, the fuel pump started, about 3 or 4 seconds later, I heard a "pop" under the hood, wasn't sure what it was, so I shut down the ignition, got out and peeked under the hood. The ENTIRE top had blown off the filter canister and diesel was "everywhere". After cleaning things up and going to town to get a new filter kit (Ford doesn't sell the filters separately any longer), I got the truck running without any more problems....

SCARES me to think what could have happened if that canister had come unglued while towing with a "hot engine".... I'd suspect the good probability of the truck "burning to the ground as diesel sprayed on the "glowing red turbo"....

The dealership didn't seem to be too concerned about the failed part. I took photos and reported it to Ford Customer Service and also to NHTSA as a safety concern.

Seems way back in time, I think I remember that canister originally had a locking bar or something that went over the top of the canister to hold it in place... Also, back then, the canister had 3 ports, two used in replacement filters and the third used at the factory (probably to bleed the fuel system) while the truck goes down the assembly line....

Anyway, if you change your own filters, listen for a "pop" while bleeding the system after changing the fuel filters.

oh I know that, but the frame mounted racor style has been around since the .. well forever haha because it worked and I haven't seen anything in the newer truck that plugs up that area to cause a change, but ya there has to be some reason for it. I did notice it has a 30000 mile change interval where mine is every second oil change which is usually about every 28000Km faster if I drive it hard

I hope they gave you that new kit for free, I know I would have been livid if that happened to me on a expensive ford kit, I know I can get the exact same thing, with out the ford stamp online from the place that makes them for ford for about 1/3rd the price.. I was sceptical at first but after I cut a couple open and put them side by side with the ford stamped ones I am not anymore.. the only thing I do make sure I have that is ford is the air filter.. one of the mechanics showed me the difference between the Fram and the motocraft and I was sold as using a Fram cost me 400 in trouble shooting a check engine light