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Old 10-20-2013, 03:13 PM   #1
Capebreton
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Air bags

Hey guys,

I am considering using air bags to prevent some sag in the rear of my truck. I am driving a 2010 F150 screw with tow package. The hitch was setup at the dealer when I purchased my 2013 Cougar 28rbs. Is it worthwhile to invest in an airbag system to level my vehicle? I realize it will not increase my tow capacity but just considering if it will help with sway. Any suggestions or experience with similar setup would be greatly appreciated. This past summer was my first year towing an RV (other than a hardtop) so i'm open to any pros & cons as i'm still a newbie at this. Thanks!

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Old 10-20-2013, 03:22 PM   #2
hankpage
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The front of your TV looks high .... I would try readjusting your WD hitch before adding air-bags. You can always change it back and it does not cost anything. JM2¢, Hank
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:59 PM   #3
Capebreton
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Hankpage,,,it's the Equalizer 2 f(E2) hitch. It was already setup by the dealer, so you think they would have tuned it?
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Old 10-20-2013, 04:34 PM   #4
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Some dealerships do an excellent job of adjusting the hitch. They measure the front bumper and adjust the hitch angle/bar tension to get the truck to sit properly. Other dealerships hook 'em all up and slap the chains to the 4th link every time.... What your dealer did, who knows???? It doesn't cost you anything to take your rig to a level concrete pad (vacant parking lot) unhitch, measure the height of the front bumper (or wheel wells) then hitch the trailer, measure the same spot and adjust the bars until the bumper (or wheel wells) returns to the "unhitched height"

Then, if the back end is still sitting "uncomfortably low" for you, consider air bags. But as long as the front is higher than when unhitched, your equalizer is not adjusted properly.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:01 AM   #5
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I would seriously consider tuning the hitch yourself first.
That said, I am a proponent of helper airbags and once you are confisent the hitch is set properly, working a set of airbags in cannot hurt (but the hitch may require further adjustment due to changing the angles)
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:53 AM   #6
Capebreton
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Are there any links or tutorials for tuning an E2 Equalizer hitch. As I mentioned I am a newbie to this so I would be more confident in seeing it done a few times before attempting to make any adjustments. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:47 AM   #7
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I'm sure there are a number of U-tube presentations, as well as every hitch manufacturer has a website with specific downloadable instructions and hitch adjustment has been a topic explored in depth on this forum.

You can start to learn about your hitch in this thread: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...tch+adjustment

Do a forum search for "hitch adjustment" and you'll find a number of other excellent threads.

Adjusting a hitch is not "rocket science" rather it's a systematic sequence of measuring, adjusting, remeasuring and readjusting until you get it "just right"

Read up on it and drag your rig to a good level parking lot and bring along your yard stick. You'll be amazed at how much more level your rig sits when it's properly adjusted.
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:39 AM   #8
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I put air bags on my ram 1500. Then I adjusted my wd hitch per mfg instructions. The air bags were a big help, but I have coil springs so I kinda had to.

That said the front of your truck looks really high even without air bags. I wonder if your wd hitch is set properly?
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:10 AM   #9
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I had a similar setup until recently with my 28RBS and a 2008 Tundra.

My dealer did a good job adjusting my Equal-i-zer WDH it since the front fender was at the exact same height as it was when unhitched. It did squat a little in the rear with the trailer attached. I wound up adding some Timbren SES (rubber bushing style supports - http://timbren.com/timbren-ses/) that got rid of the squat and was really easy to install on the Tundra.

As I'm sure you're probably aware, these 28RBS units are extremely tongue-heavy. I purchased a tongue scale (http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sherline/5780.html) to be able to accurately weigh it while I was readjusting cargo. I moved all the heavy stuff (2-burner camp-chef, dutch ovens, griddles, extra power cords, etc.) out of the front storage compartment to the rear one, and I still could never get the tongue weight below 1000lbs.

The Tundra had plenty towing capacity left (~2100lbs) even if the trailer was at the 8200lb gross weight (it was less), towed it very well, and even did well in the hills and mountains of VA, MD and PA. However, I kept doing the math in my head, adding up the weight of me, DW, two growing boys and two medium-sized dogs and kept finding myself at least 225lbs over my payload of 1430lbs.

I happened across a good price on a very gently used 2012 F-250 diesel last week, so I traded in the Tundra both as an upgrade and for over double the payload. I haven't had a chance to even hook the trailer up to my F-250 yet, but I'm guessing it will be a night-and-day difference.
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twstdpear View Post
I had a similar setup until recently with my 28RBS and a 2008 Tundra.

My dealer did a good job adjusting my Equal-i-zer WDH it since the front fender was at the exact same height as it was when unhitched. It did squat a little in the rear with the trailer attached. I wound up adding some Timbren SES (rubber bushing style supports - http://timbren.com/timbren-ses/) that got rid of the squat and was really easy to install on the Tundra.

As I'm sure you're probably aware, these 28RBS units are extremely tongue-heavy. I purchased a tongue scale (http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sherline/5780.html) to be able to accurately weigh it while I was readjusting cargo. I moved all the heavy stuff (2-burner camp-chef, dutch ovens, griddles, extra power cords, etc.) out of the front storage compartment to the rear one, and I still could never get the tongue weight below 1000lbs.

The Tundra had plenty towing capacity left (~2100lbs) even if the trailer was at the 8200lb gross weight (it was less), towed it very well, and even did well in the hills and mountains of VA, MD and PA. However, I kept doing the math in my head, adding up the weight of me, DW, two growing boys and two medium-sized dogs and kept finding myself at least 225lbs over my payload of 1430lbs.

I happened across a good price on a very gently used 2012 F-250 diesel last week, so I traded in the Tundra both as an upgrade and for over double the payload. I haven't had a chance to even hook the trailer up to my F-250 yet, but I'm guessing it will be a night-and-day difference.
The 28RBS is very tongue heavy. Loaded ready for the road, mine tips in at 1380 lbs. By the way, congratulations on the new truck. You will be impressed.


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Old 04-27-2014, 06:49 PM   #11
Jim Dow
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Where to mount the air bag compressor?

Where did you mount the compressor that came with your air bags?
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:33 PM   #12
ncbound123
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Just finished installing our Air Lift bags. Hooked the camper up and ran some air into the bags. Unhitched measurement on the wheel well was 41". with 60 PSI and hooked up we are at 40". This should make our towing much better and level it all out. Looking forward to our next trip already.
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Old 05-14-2014, 03:32 AM   #13
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When the dealership adjusted the WDH, was the camper empty? If you put all of your gear in it, then adjust the WDH, it will make quite a bit of difference. It's at least worth a shot, if it doesn't help.......at least it didn't cost you much.
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