OEM brake controller

[T-Bone]

Alright, so I finally got to hook up and haul the new TH home yesterday and did I ever have to crank up the OEM brake controller. On the Outback set at 3.5 no prob at all but with the Fuzion I've got it up to 9.5 and the trailers brakes still won't grab tight. Anyone else have this sort of issue and know if the Dodge controller is just a POS and no good for the bigger 5ers?

[Javi]

First thing I'd check is the brake adjustment... But it is also true that the more mass you have moving, the more difficult it is to stop it..

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by Javi

First thing I'd check is the brake adjustment... But it is also true that the more mass you have moving, the more difficult it is to stop it..

+1 on the brake adjustment.

Second, make sure all four (or six) brakes are working. Loose connections is the most common problem here.

[Bob Landry]

The controller should not lock up the brakes. When you are setting it, you only want it to feel it slow the trailer. You don't want them to lock up and smoke tires when you hit the brakes.

[Javi]

Adjusting GAIN NOTE:

This should only be performed in a traffic free environment at speeds of approximately 20–25 mph (30–40 km/h).

1. Make sure the trailer brakes are in good working condition, functioning normally, and properly adjusted.

See your trailer dealer if necessary.

2. Hook up the trailer and make the electrical connections according to the trailer manufacturer’s instructions.

3. When a trailer with electric brakes is plugged in, the GAIN setting will illuminate.

4. Use the GAIN adjustment (+/-) buttons to increase or decrease the GAIN setting to the desired starting point. A GAIN setting of 6 is a good starting point for heavier loads.

5. In a traffic-free environment, tow the trailer on a dry, level surface at a speed of 20–25 mph (30–40 km/h) and squeeze the manual brake control lever completely.

6. If the trailer wheels lockup (indicated by squealing tires), reduce the GAIN setting; if the trailer wheels turn freely, increase the GAIN setting.

Repeat Steps 5 and 6 until the GAIN setting is at a point just below trailer wheel lockup. If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lockup may not be attainable even with the maximum GAIN setting of 10.

[T-Bone]

Originally Posted by Javi

Adjusting GAIN NOTE:

This should only be performed in a traffic free environment at speeds of approximately 20–25 mph (30–40 km/h).

1. Make sure the trailer brakes are in good working condition, functioning normally, and properly adjusted.

See your trailer dealer if necessary.

2. Hook up the trailer and make the electrical connections according to the trailer manufacturer’s instructions.

3. When a trailer with electric brakes is plugged in, the GAIN setting will illuminate.

4. Use the GAIN adjustment (+/-) buttons to increase or decrease the GAIN setting to the desired starting point. A GAIN setting of 6 is a good starting point for heavier loads.

5. In a traffic-free environment, tow the trailer on a dry, level surface at a speed of 20–25 mph (30–40 km/h) and squeeze the manual brake control lever completely.

6. If the trailer wheels lockup (indicated by squealing tires), reduce the GAIN setting; if the trailer wheels turn freely, increase the GAIN setting.

Repeat Steps 5 and 6 until the GAIN setting is at a point just below trailer wheel lockup. If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lockup may not be attainable even with the maximum GAIN setting of 10.

This bottom note is where I'm at, the max being 10 and not being able to lock up the brakes. I'm used to adjusting it till they start to lock up and then back it off a touch. Still I wonder if opting for a P3 would be a better controller?

[Javi]

Originally Posted by T-Bone

This bottom note is where I'm at, the max being 10 and not being able to lock up the brakes. I'm used to adjusting it till they start to lock up and then back it off a touch. Still I wonder if opting for a P3 would be a better controller?

The P3 may well be a better controller (personal opinion, I doubt it) however I don't think it matters that much when manually actuating the brakes to set the gain..

If I had to guess I'd check the brake adjustment... when I picked up my Passport from the dealer it wouldn't come close to locking the brakes even on gravel with a 10 gain... after a short trip I adjusted them and now I run at 4.5 to 6 depending on road conditions... They start to lock on 7.5 - 8 on dry pavement..

Funny thing about the brake adjustment... the young fellow who did the 2 minute walk through said he couldn't let me drive out until he set the gain..... he then set it on 3.5 drove it a couple of yards then hit the handle and pronounced it set... As soon as I got behind the wheel I checked it... it wouldn't even hold the rig at high idle...

[KenBob]

Our 2012 Ram 3500 has the integrated brake controller and it works great! There is a "light trailer" or "heavy trailer" choice. You might be on the "light" setting. Ours uses buttons on the steering wheel to scroll through the different systems/settings.

[audio1der]

Originally Posted by KenBob

Our 2012 Ram 3500 has the integrated brake controller and it works great! There is a "light trailer" or "heavy trailer" choice. You might be on the "light" setting. Ours uses buttons on the steering wheel to scroll through the different systems/settings.

Bingo. I had the same issue, and realized I'd been using the "Light Electric" mode. Switching to "Heavy Electric" made all the difference. You have to use your EVIC and go to the system setup near the bottom of the menu to choose between Light and Heavy electric mode.

[T-Bone]

Alright after further digging I've found out the controller on the 2010 rams were not designed with "large" 5ers in mind. And on the brakes themselves they are the Dexter self adjusting brakes that come standard on the FuIon line.
I picked up the P3 and installed it today, we head out for the maiden camping trip tomorrow so I'll post back with the news. Hope everything else works well on the unit.

[SAD]

Originally Posted by T-Bone

Alright after further digging I've found out the controller on the 2010 rams were not designed with "large" 5ers in mind...

This seems very strange to me. Where did you learn this?

[T-Bone]

Originally Posted by SAD

This seems very strange to me. Where did you learn this?

Got it right from the mouth of the dealership service dept, as well as quite a few other disappointed Ram owners on the Cummins forum have found to have the same issue.

[KenBob]

You may need to have the integrated brake controller "deactivated" as to not set any failure messages in the evic after installing another controller. Or just ignore them. Deactivating can only be done at a dealer.

[Jim W]

Did you check with the service department if the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Management system)/ECM is compatible with the P3 brake controller? The Ram trucks at least as from 2006 and on have used a Can Bus wiring system and if the TIPM senses a differential power output difference three times in a row it could shut down and fail. Several users have found out the hard way when installing aftermarket electrical components.

This would not apply to older trucks say from 2006 to 2009 since only the adapter cable was provided for the brake controller. Since the new 4th generation Ram trucks have the brake controller incorporated into the truck’s wiring and TIPM/ECM this could be an issues since power output/input could be different.

On Turbo Diesel Register. Com, most users who tow trailers claim that the “Max Brake controller” is superior to any other controller on the market. They will use this controller only, transferring the controller from vehicle to vehicle as they upgrade the truck to newer models.

Jim W.

[SAD]

Originally Posted by T-Bone

Got it right from the mouth of the dealership service dept....

Ah... The same people who love the phrase, "could not duplicate". Gotcha.

[1bacamaro]

I have a 2011 dodge dually and mine doesn't have heavy tow also. I asked to see if they could flash it to the 2012 programming but dealer wasn't sure. I just installed a a p3 instead and it works great.

[KenBob]

Adjusting GAIN

Note: This should only be performed in a traffic free environment at speeds of approximately 20–25 mph (30–40 km/h).

Make sure the trailer brakes are in good working condition, functioning normally, and properly adjusted. See your trailer dealer if necessary.
Hook up the trailer and make the electrical connections according to the trailer manufacturer’s instructions.
When a trailer with electric/EOH brakes is plugged in, the trailer connected message should appear in the EVIC (if the connection is not recognized by the ITBM, braking functions will not be available), the GAIN setting will illuminate and the correct type of trailer must be selected from the EVIC options.
Press the UP or DOWN button on the steering wheel until System Setup appears on the screen.


Press the SELECT button and then press the UP or DOWN buttons until Trailer Brake Type appears on the screen.


Press the SELECT button and then press the UP or DOWN buttons until the proper Trailer Brake Type appears on the screen.

Trailer Brake Type
When this feature is selected, the Trailer Brake Type can be changed between “Light Electric” and “Heavy Electric”. To make your selection, scroll up or down until the preferred setting is highlighted, then press and release the SELECT button until a check-mark appears next to the setting, showing that the setting has been selected. Refer to “Integrated Trailer Brake Module” in “Starting And Operating.”



Note: 1500 Models Only – Light Electric and Heavy Electric will only be available due to the tow capacities of the vehicle.

Use the GAIN adjustment (+/-) buttons to increase or decrease the GAIN setting to the desired starting point. A GAIN setting of 5 is a good starting point.
In a traffic-free environment, tow the trailer on a dry, level surface at a speed of 20–25 mph (30–40 km/h) and squeeze the manual brake control lever completely.
If the trailer wheels lockup (indicated by squealing tires), reduce the GAIN setting; if the trailer wheels turn freely, increase the GAIN setting.
Repeat Steps 8 and 9 until the GAIN setting is at a point just below trailer wheel lockup. If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lockup may not be attainable even with the maximum GAIN setting of 10.


EVIC Display Messages
The trailer brake control interacts with the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC). Display messages, along with a single chime, will be displayed when a malfunction is determined in the trailer connection, trailer brake control, or on the trailer. Refer to “Electronic Vehicle Information Center” in “Understanding Your Instrument Panel” for further information.

Caution!
Connecting a trailer that is not compatible with the ITBM system may result in reduced or complete loss of trailer braking. There may be a increase in stopping distance or trailer instability which could result in damage to your vehicle, trailer, or other property.

Warning!
Connecting a trailer that is not compatible with the ITBM system may result in reduced or complete loss of trailer braking. There may be a increase in stopping distance or trailer instability which could result in personal injury.


Note:

An aftermarket controller may be available for use with air trailer brake systems and other systems not compatible with ITBM. To determine the type of brakes on your trailer and the availability of controllers, check with your trailer manufacturer or dealer.
Removal of the ITBM will cause errors and it may cause damage to the electrical system and electronic modules of the vehicle. See your authorized dealer if an aftermarket module is to be installed