Cable Slide Motor Question

[sourdough]

That sure sounds like the thermal protection switch in the motor. It sounds like it might be weak, the motor is in a bind or the slide. Mine would do that before I did the modifications I described earlier. Sounds like yours just might be bad.

[MontanaMike]

Originally Posted by sourdough

That sure sounds like the thermal protection switch in the motor. It sounds like it might be weak, the motor is in a bind or the slide. Mine would do that before I did the modifications I described earlier. Sounds like yours just might be bad.

The "gearbox" felt pretty warm but the motor was only room temp. I'm going to head to my dealer today and see if they have any ideas. I'm heading out for a week of camping on Monday but it should only need to come in once....when I'm leaving the following Monday. Going out, it doesn't have that issue.

[Sandi587]

Originally Posted by MontanaMike

So this might be the culprit. Any suggestions on where to find this circuit breaker? When pulling in the slide today it went about a foot and stopped. The switch did nothing...not even a click. Waited about seconds and heard a click from up near the slide motor. Pushed the button and it came in about another foot and stopped dead. Wash/repeat 3 or 4 times and the slide was all the ways in but each time, the switch was dead and then I heard a click and then the slide would come in again. I don't see any fuse or breaker (see picture attached) anywhere near it.

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Mine were in the battery compartment. The wire ran from the battery to the breaker and then on to the switch for the slide. This is what mine looked like.

[MontanaMike]

Originally Posted by Sandi587

Mine were in the battery compartment. The wire ran from the battery to the breaker and then on to the switch for the slide. This is what mine looked like.

I've got 2 of those with a bunch of wires coming from both sides in the battery compartment. Any idea on how I could test those without going to the hassle of pulling them out and replacing them?

[Sandi587]

There's two ways to figure it out. One side of the breaker is constant power, the other side is post breaker. Trace the wires, find the side that has a direct wire connection to the battery, that will be constant power side.

If you have a helper and a multimeter you can have them run the slide while measuring voltage on the post switch side of the breaker. If it cuts out, or shows large voltage drop that's a tell tale. If not you can just head to step two,

After I saw voltage drop in mine I confirmed by disconnecting all wires on the switched side of the breaker and isolated the problem slide by connecting the wires individually to the battery positive until I found the correct wire for the problem slide. Then I tested the slide open and close function several times to make sure the breaker was the issue. It worked flawlessly without the breaker.

However I wouldn't do that as a permanent fix, you need a circuit breaker in line in case of a short or other issue. The bad breaker should have an amp rating on it. I purchased an upgraded breaker and installed it. Haven't had an issue since.

I placed the all the slides on one good breaker. Reason being I only run one slide at a time, so I should never overload that breaker.

All those other wires are for other 12v loads that need power at all times, on mine I had the co2 detector, lp detector, electric brakes, radio, power to the remote In command system, power lead from the vehicle pigtail, and the level up system power. They are all drawing power from the breaker, they can place the breaker into overload depending on total amperage being drawn. My problem slide was drawing more than 20 amps all by itself.

I put in a separate 10 spot fuse block for all the other wires to remove their load from the slide breaker.

I will be back at my unit this week, if you want I can take some pics of my setup and pm them to you so you can get an idea of what I have going on.

[MontanaMike]

That would be awesome! Keystone, in their infinite wisdom, put my breakers on the roof of the battery compartment which is already pretty small. Might be a project for after my trip next week to sort all that garbage out but it would be great to have a picture to give me an idea

[MontanaMike]

Originally Posted by sourdough

That sure sounds like the thermal protection switch in the motor. It sounds like it might be weak, the motor is in a bind or the slide. Mine would do that before I did the modifications I described earlier. Sounds like yours just might be bad.

I think this might be it. I used a probe to test the circuit breakers as my daughter pulled the slide in and when the switch went dead and slide stopped, I still had power at both sides (not sure which is battery side and which is not) of the breakers. Plus the faint click I hear when the button goes hot again is coming from the motor on top of the slide.

End of the camping season for me although we might get one more in so I'll have it looked at by the dealer. Have a few more things needing attention that I'm not comfortable in looking at.

[Tinner12002]

Originally Posted by Sandi587

Another thing to check would be the circuit breaker for the motor. I had the same issue as you have, slide would move about 80% of the travel and then just quit. After about 20 seconds it would move again, and finish. While under warranty took it in, they replaced motor. Started acting up again within weeks.

In troubleshooting the system I found that I had a bad circuit breaker for that slide motor. Each motor should have its own circuit breaker, mine were in the battery compartment. I don't think it was rated to take the load the motor required. They're thermal breakers, heat up too much under heavy load. Was a small metal box with two posts on it.

I replaced the old circuit breakers with upgraded ones, like this,

https://www.amazon.com/Asdomo-12V-24...ircuit+breaker

Slide motor works flawlessly now.

I have 2 circuit breakers inside my battery compartment as well but tech told me they were for the landing gear as I inquired about a smaller battery cable that still had a power draw on it with the battery disconnected and disconnect in the disconnect position.