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Old 09-12-2021, 08:41 AM   #21
flybouy
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Originally Posted by dutchmensport View Post
I've had an air compressor for several years now. Not sure where I purchased it from now, but it's been a good one. Although a little to big for comfortable storing in the trailer, it stays home. I use it more for airing up my tires than anything.

I recently purchased another one from Harbor Freight and I've been somewhat disappointed in it, and I'll explain why.

My tires on the trailer call for a max of 105 psi. I like to keep 100 psi in them. Now the older air compressor has no problem blowing up to 105 psi. The turn off point for the air compressor is about 120 psi. When using filling a tire, it will kick back on about 100 psi, thus enabling the compressor to continuously keep pumping air to reach my desired 100 psi in the tires.

Now, the new one runs and turn off at 135 psi. Sounds good? right? But, when using it, the pressure will drop to about 45 psi before the compressor kicks back on again. Absolutely not good for filling a tire 100 psi.

I have found a work around with the smaller new air compressor and feel comfortable using it now to air up my tires at 100 psi. The solution check the pressure in the tires before starting. Say, they lost 10 pounds. The pressure is now 90 psi in the tires. I'll turn on the air compressor, watch the gage. When it reaches 90 psi, I'll start filling the tires. The compressor is still running, attempting to fill the air tank to 135 psi, but it's also now got enough pressure to start adding more than 90 to the tires. ..... patients, and a lot longer than my old compressor, it will finally fill the tires to 100 psi. I watch the gage on the air compressor. Its off about 2 pounds from my tire gage, so when the compressor says 102, the gage says 100. I always use the same tire pressure gage for consistency.

So, when getting a new air compressor, you REALLY need to know where the max pressure is, where the compressor shuts off. And you REALLY need to know where the minimum is ... where the compressor turns back on.

Of course, if you are winterizing an RV, this is not such a critical issue. But if you get an air compressor, you might as well get one that will service your RV tires comfortably too!
Sounds to me like your HF compressor has an issue. I've never seen a compressor with nearly 100 psi differential between start and stop. Depending on the control it may or may not be adjustable. On my onboard compressor for my train horns (12 vdc) it has a simple air pressure switch the screws into the air tank and interrupts the ground wire. At 150 psi it opens and at 90 psi it closes. Most 120 vac compressors have a control switch you can replace for around $15.
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Old 09-12-2021, 08:55 AM   #22
Richeyb
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Air compressor

I opted to purchase a DeWalt 20v portable air compressor. Found it t be a cheaper option than the more expensive VAIR compressor everyone talks about. The DeWalt uses the same 20V battery as my other DeWalt power tools and works great to check tire pressure and top off all my tires on the road or blow up toys at the lake. You just set the pressure and let it do it’s thing. Very happy with it!
However to Winterize, I use my shops air compressor to blow out my 5th wheel and TT.
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Old 09-12-2021, 11:51 AM   #23
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The previous owner of this rig used a compressor to blow the lines free, and nothing else. So, the bottom of the shower hose (with residual water in it) cracked;as did the outdoor shower and sink hose. I learned from him that whatever HE did in this 5er, either check it or replace it!

I’ve never used air to clean my lines out. I make sure my fresh water tank is empty and add 3 or 4 gallons of potable anti freeze to it. Open each valve until pink come out, and then close it. I’ve done this from my 1955 Dalton Apache through this Cougar. Am I missing something?
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Old 09-12-2021, 12:39 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Hballer21 View Post
The previous owner of this rig used a compressor to blow the lines free, and nothing else. So, the bottom of the shower hose (with residual water in it) cracked;as did the outdoor shower and sink hose. I learned from him that whatever HE did in this 5er, either check it or replace it!

I’ve never used air to clean my lines out. I make sure my fresh water tank is empty and add 3 or 4 gallons of potable anti freeze to it. Open each valve until pink come out, and then close it. I’ve done this from my 1955 Dalton Apache through this Cougar. Am I missing something?
I used compressed air then pump in antifreeze. Takes less antifreeze that way and no issue of dilution. I never put antifreeze in the FW tank for 2 reasons. First you often cannot get all the water drained from the tank so it may dilute the antifreeze. Secondly, it can be difficult to remove all the antifreeze and it's residual taste. This can result in a lot of disinfecting and flushing.
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Old 09-12-2021, 12:51 PM   #25
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Hft

Yes good tools will serve you well. However you can't beat the little tank model for 39.95. The pancake style really takes up more storage space than the little tank model. Now for using them once or twice a year to blow out the water lines, its perfect. Set it for 40 psi, get the adapter and took it up and let it go. 10 minutes later your all done. However disconnect it before pulling out the water tank heater plug. It had been turned off so it wasn't hot. It got my attention.
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Old 09-12-2021, 12:59 PM   #26
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I have the ViAir 400P and I love it. It comes with 60 ft of hose (two 30 footers that connect together). It is pricey, but very handy on the road. I have also used it with an air nailer to fix stuff inside the trailer that fell apart. Having one with a tank is nice, but like others said, take up more room. I've used it the past two years to blow the lines out and it does a fine job.
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Old 09-12-2021, 01:09 PM   #27
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I carry a pancake 120 v with a Honda 2000 watt Gen. I have had no problems filling tires to 100 psi . Except above 6000 ft in the high desert. The compressor maxed out at about 90 psi. The max ratings of these compressors is probably at sea-level
Higher altitude will reduce your pressure and volume output.
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Old 09-12-2021, 03:40 PM   #28
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Tank flush port.

Don't forget to blow out the water from the black tank flush lines. There is a 1 way valve (plastic) - mine is under bathroom sink. It will freeze and crack if you dont blow it out as well.
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Old 09-12-2021, 07:02 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Hballer21 View Post
The previous owner of this rig used a compressor to blow the lines free, and nothing else. So, the bottom of the shower hose (with residual water in it) cracked;as did the outdoor shower and sink hose. I learned from him that whatever HE did in this 5er, either check it or replace it!

I’ve never used air to clean my lines out. I make sure my fresh water tank is empty and add 3 or 4 gallons of potable anti freeze to it. Open each valve until pink come out, and then close it. I’ve done this from my 1955 Dalton Apache through this Cougar. Am I missing something?
Truth of the matter, I blow out the lines with low pressure and then fill the lines with antifreeze. Takes less than a gallon. And then final pour enough in the sinks to fill the traps.
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Old 09-13-2021, 02:30 AM   #30
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A previous poster "I make sure my fresh water tank is empty and add 3 or 4 gallons of potable anti freeze to it."
While there is no problem per se to this system, this is not the accepted correct method when winterizing. Too much money, and too much trouble getting the taste out.
I have always blown out all the lines with air first, including the outside shower/hose, grey tank and black tank rinse, and do not forget the washer connections, both hot and cold. And no, it doesn't matter if you have a washer or not, they still have to be done. Winterizing your washer, dishwasher or refrigerator should be done as per manufacturer. I then follow up with the pink goodie stuff. Usually a little less than 2 gallons. Pour a cup or two down all the drains, two cups in the commode and you're done.
As a side note, don't forget to flush your commode until it runs pink!
I almost forgot, I use the pancake compressor, 150 PSI, from
Lowes, never any problems and going on 6 years.
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Old 09-13-2021, 08:18 AM   #31
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A previous poster "I make sure my fresh water tank is empty and add 3 or 4 gallons of potable anti freeze to it."
While there is no problem per se to this system, this is not the accepted correct method when winterizing. Too much money, and too much trouble getting the taste out.
I have always blown out all the lines with air first, including the outside shower/hose, grey tank and black tank rinse, and do not forget the washer connections, both hot and cold. And no, it doesn't matter if you have a washer or not, they still have to be done. Winterizing your washer, dishwasher or refrigerator should be done as per manufacturer. I then follow up with the pink goodie stuff. Usually a little less than 2 gallons. Pour a cup or two down all the drains, two cups in the commode and you're done.
As a side note, don't forget to flush your commode until it runs pink!
I almost forgot, I use the pancake compressor, 150 PSI, from
Lowes, never any problems and going on 6 years.
The one point I'd add to Jim's excellent procedure is a slight change to that last line. It's only a "clarification" to his comment: Don't use that Lowe's air compressor with the regulator set to 150 PSI. Regulate the pressure to around 40-50 PSI. "Blasting" the PEX plumbing system with 150 PSI may cause more damage to the system than the ice would over the winter.....

Other than that "slight reduction in air pressure", I do the same thing every fall and store our fifth wheel in an unheated pole barn where the temperature hovers around -20F for weeks on end every winter.....
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Old 09-13-2021, 10:22 AM   #32
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I certainly should have clarified that I only push that water around with about 30-35 PSI, NOT the 150 PSI. My bad....
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