Winegard connect - wires missing - Page 2

simplesimon777 · 04-25-2021, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jxnbbl

The green/white wire coding is for interior 12V circuits. So it is probably used for the lights. In my case, I do not need the light switch on.

However, for the Bullet (273bhs) the light switch does not control all the lighting, only the lighting in the main ceiling. I believe, other lights in the bedroom, bunk room are activated with the push switch built into the light.

First I say I believe as we have only used the trailer for one trip and it is in storage....and I believe we left the bedroom light on by mistake one night in our driveway where other lighting was off.

The bottom line is that where it might share one circuit with ceiling lights it is not the one switched off/on at the trailer door.

So, when I pull of the gateway cap, I have the 3 antennae wires and then two sets of green/white wires (labeled 1 and 2). Any idea on which to use. And are you saying that using these wires shouldn’t require me to keep the light switches on by the door?

Javi · 04-25-2021, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplesimon777

So, when I pull of the gateway cap, I have the 3 antennae wires and then two sets of green/white wires (labeled 1 and 2). Any idea on which to use. And are you saying that using these wires shouldn’t require me to keep the light switches on by the door?

One of the green will be hot even with the switch off. Don't know which but if you have a test light it will be easy to find out.

jxnbbl · 04-26-2021, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Javi

One of the green will be hot even with the switch off. Don't know which but if you have a test light it will be easy to find out.

One of the best tools to get is a Klein electrical tester that does low voltage detection as it is non intrusive to the insulation. Probably both is these are active one found to the bedroom and the other to the slide out.

Javi · 04-26-2021, 04:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jxnbbl

One of the best tools to get is a Klein electrical tester that does low voltage detection as it is non intrusive to the insulation. Probably both is these are active one found to the bedroom and the other to the slide out.

The wiring for mine were pink and white, and fed nothing else thatIcould find. It was/is hot continously except when I pulled the fuse labeled accessory.
As I said, I suspect that one of the two green wires in his bundle is also hot continously and controlled by a fuse.

jxnbbl · 04-29-2021, 04:31 AM

https://keystone-rv-dealer-app.cdn.p...box_Oct20b.pdf

The above basically states pink and white will be found too. (I just expected the lighting circuit to be in the area)

Eddies252 · 05-01-2021, 06:13 AM

I removed the plate and wires are all there, but the pink/white (power) wires are in a loop. Do you have to cut wires and splice both ends to the router power cable? I assume pink is positive

PeteK · 05-12-2021, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddies252

I removed the plate and wires are all there, but the pink/white (power) wires are in a loop. Do you have to cut wires and splice both ends to the router power cable? I assume pink is positive

Did you ever get an answer to this? It's looks like mine is the same way, the pink/white wire is zip tied to the little cap that you remove but it appears to be a loop..I can't find the ends..

Brantel · 05-12-2021, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeteK

Did you ever get an answer to this? It's looks like mine is the same way, the pink/white wire is zip tied to the little cap that you remove but it appears to be a loop..I can't find the ends..

You have to cut the wires and make a three way splice on each wire. (Turn off power first!)

Javi · 05-12-2021, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeteK

Did you ever get an answer to this? It's looks like mine is the same way, the pink/white wire is zip tied to the little cap that you remove but it appears to be a loop..I can't find the ends..

The pink is hot and the white is ground.
I cut each in two a then spliced the appropriate wire from the unit together with the two wire ends (all 3 wires) with the included wire nuts.

If I'd had some of the Scotch splice clips I would have used them and not have had to cut the wire.

PeteK · 05-12-2021, 11:33 AM

Thank you Brantel and Javi. Looks like a trip to Lowes is in store for some scotch fasteners (I think that's what you call them).

Brantel · 05-12-2021, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeteK

Thank you Brantel and Javi. Looks like a trip to Lowes is in store for some scotch fasteners (I think that's what you call them).

I personally don't care for ScotchLock splices. Bad experiences with them failing. Lowes sells the same crimp splices that are used throughout your RV.

PeteK · 05-12-2021, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brantel

I personally don't care for ScotchLock splices. Bad experiences with them failing. Lowes sells the same crimp splices that are used throughout your RV.

I already had some of those laying around, thanks for the suggestion. I finally got everything configured.

All is up and running! Thanks for the help

Pete

**JRTJH** · 05-12-2021, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brantel

I personally don't care for ScotchLock splices. Bad experiences with them failing. Lowes sells the same crimp splices that are used throughout your RV.

Those crimp fasteners will work, but if used on the brakes, with wires hanging out in the open, they can corrode and the copper wiring on the brake magnets won't make it very far... I found that the waterproof ScotchLock fasteners are much more reliable. They're available in a variety of configurations. I use the "double wire:double wire" ones to jumper brakes and the "single:double" ones on the axle far end connections.

Inside the trailer, the crimp fasteners are my "go to every time" rather than twist on connectors. Outside, not so much.

PeteK · 05-12-2021, 04:16 PM

Good info. Thanks

**JRTJH** · 05-12-2021, 04:41 PM

OOPS !!!!! I had about 4 threads open and was reading one about changing brake assemblies and then read Brantel's post about crimp connectors... I put "2+2 together" but in separate threads... I'd definitely say that there's no reason to use "waterproof ScotchLock connectors in the roof"....

Anyway, back to our regular program.....

TacoTruckie · 07-25-2021, 04:09 PM

Any ideas if I can get cables extensions to the wifi and 4G cables coming from the Winegard 360 +? The cables do not reach the Winegard Gateway.

LHaven · 07-25-2021, 05:18 PM

I see only one cable in that photo, and it looks like push-on coax. You can add a short coax extension and then tape it up good so it won't pull apart at the joint. You'll lose a couple dB, but maybe it beats running a whole new wire.

Javi · 07-25-2021, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TacoTruckie

Any ideas if I can get cables extensions to the wifi and 4G cables coming from the Winegard 360 +? The cables do not reach the Winegard Gateway.

That isn't the wiring for the Gateway. That looks like a CAT6 cable

The wiring for the Gateway may need to be fished out of the ceiling, mine did.

LHaven · 07-25-2021, 10:16 PM

That's clearly coax. CAT6 is RJ-45.

jxnbbl · 07-26-2021, 05:12 AM

The gateway will have 3 wires that look like that, but to me they were smaller...and they did not have green insulation. I believe white with 3 colors depicting what they went to - red, green and yellow. I am assuming the hole had the prewired 'cap' on it initially?

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