What did you do to your RV today?

[Bandit12]

Originally Posted by LHaven

Did you bring enough for the rest of the class?

This is going to be my 2nd retirement. I retired from the USAF in 1999. I haven't been in a class for over 20 years. Y'all on yer own.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by Bandit12

Looked at it as I was brushing the snow from the windows of my truck on my way to work. While at work, dropped some serious coin to upgrade my boondock electrical system. Bought two 6 volt battery boxes and two 6 volt golf cart batteries. I'm replacing nearly new group 24 deep cycle batteries that came with the coach. While doing my research, the group 24 batteries are rated 130 minutes at 25 amp draw. the 6 volt golf cart batteries are rated at 132 minutes at 75 amp draw. I figured I would bite the bullet before I retire at the end of next month and give up my employee discount.

Where did you order the battery boxes from? I need to get a pair,my 6 volts fit in the existing boxes but are a little too tall for the lid. Thought about modifying the box or the lid.

[MarkEHansen]

Originally Posted by Bandit12

Looked at it as I was brushing the snow from the windows of my truck on my way to work. While at work, dropped some serious coin to upgrade my boondock electrical system. Bought two 6 volt battery boxes and two 6 volt golf cart batteries. I'm replacing nearly new group 24 deep cycle batteries that came with the coach. While doing my research, the group 24 batteries are rated 130 minutes at 25 amp draw. the 6 volt golf cart batteries are rated at 132 minutes at 75 amp draw. I figured I would bite the bullet before I retire at the end of next month and give up my employee discount.

When comparing the capacities of deep cycle batteries, most batteries provide a 20-hour AH rate. This makes it easier to compare "apples to apples" batteries from different manufacturers.

For example, the 20-hour rate for the Interstate GC2 batteries I purchased for my trailer is 210AH.

[MarkEHansen]

Originally Posted by jasin1

Where did you order the battery boxes from? I need to get a pair,my 6 volts fit in the existing boxes but are a little too tall for the lid. Thought about modifying the box or the lid.

Here's what I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00316KU6E..._t1_B006WAFIEA

[Bandit12]

Originally Posted by jasin1

Where did you order the battery boxes from? I need to get a pair,my 6 volts fit in the existing boxes but are a little too tall for the lid. Thought about modifying the box or the lid.

Well, I work for Napa Auto Parts. I dug in the catalog and found 6 volt battery boxes. Part # 730-6745, if your local Napa does not have them, they should be able to order them, as I had to do myself. Cost is about $25 each. Since my unit came with dual 12 volt group 24 batteries wired in parallel, I hope to be able to use the jumper cables from those to hook up the dual 6 volt batteries in series. My only concern is will I have enough length in the coach cable to reach the far side battery for the ground wire.

[Bandit12]

Originally Posted by MarkEHansen

When comparing the capacities of deep cycle batteries, most batteries provide a 20-hour AH rate. This makes it easier to compare "apples to apples" batteries from different manufacturers.

For example, the 20-hour rate for the Interstate GC2 batteries I purchased for my trailer is 210AH.

All the numbers I'm going to quote here are from Napa so take them as that.

Our Group 24 Dual purpose battery, 8240 is rated at 62 amp hour

The Group 24 Deep cycle marine battery, 8302 is rated at 75 amp hour

The 6 volt Golf Cart Group GC2 battery, 8146, is rated at 235 amp hour.

Between two new 6 volt batteries, the OTG package, and our generator, I don't think I'll need to worry about battery consumption on our boondocking trips. And most of the camping we do is at campgrounds with no hook ups.

[MarkEHansen]

Yes, it depends on how much power you consume. We have an "entertainment" closet which includes a number of components which run off of the batteries, like a Raspberry Pi (mini computer), Roku, Wifi Router, 300Watt inverter so we can run the TV, etc.

We then have two CPAP machines which run off the batteries all night.

Along with the other normal things, like the Fridge, Furnace, water heater, phone chargers, laptops, etc.

We can get probably two days of normal usage before we have to recharge, but we just recharge daily.

[Bandit12]

So I got the batteries switched out today and nothing burned to the ground so I guess I did everything right. I used the factory ground cable, guessing it was about 2 gauge cable to make the jumper from the ground post to the power post between the two batteries. I had to go to the hardware store (our local Napa stores are closed Sundays, thank God) and got a 42 inch 4 gauge lug to lug cable to run from the ground terminal on the far battery over to the original frame grounding point. Before I connected anything to the trailer, I hooked the two batteries together in series and checked the voltage with my multimeter. Can't help myself, old aircraft mechanic coming out in me, trust but verify before making ANY connection. Everything seems to be working properly. I was a bit surprised to find the jumpers for the parallel connections of the factory batteries to be approximately 10 gauge wire. I did not use them but I did keep them. The other project I tackled today was replacing the tiny nearly useless wheels on my Predator 3500 generator. I got a big wheel kit on Amazon, took all of 20 minutes to install completely. Trial fit it on my cargo tray and with the larger wheels, it will not fit on the tray. So I fabbed up some risers out of 4x4 and 2x4. I relocated the spare tire to the ladder side of the bumper, cut my 4x4 to fit inside the tray, screwed a slightly shorter piece of 2x4 on top of those and now the generator sits on top[ of the wood blocks with the wheels just over the edge of the tray. I had to drill 2 new holes for my tie downs in order to for the generator cover over it with strapped down. But everything now fits and it's secure.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Bandit12

So I got the batteries switched out today and nothing burned to the ground so I guess I did everything right. I used the factory ground cable, guessing it was about 2 gauge cable to make the jumper from the ground post to the power post between the two batteries. I had to go to the hardware store (our local Napa stores are closed Sundays, thank God) and got a 42 inch 4 gauge lug to lug cable to run from the ground terminal on the far battery over to the original frame grounding point. Before I connected anything to the trailer, I hooked the two batteries together in series and checked the voltage with my multimeter. Can't help myself, old aircraft mechanic coming out in me, trust but verify before making ANY connection. Everything seems to be working properly. The other project I tackled today was replacing the tiny nearly useless wheel on my Predator 3500 generator. I got a big wheel kit on Amazon, took all of 20 minutes to install completely. Trial fit it on my cargo tray and with the larger wheels, it will not fit on the tray. So I fabbed up some risers out of 4x4 and 2x4. I relocated the spare tire to the ladder side of the bumper, cut my 4x4 to fit inside the tray, screwed a slightly shorter piece of 2x4 on top of those and now the generator sits on top[ of the wood blocks with the wheel just over the edge of the tray. I had to drill 2 ne holes for my tie downs in order to for the generator cover over it with strapped down. But everything now fits and it secure.

Curious?
The 3500 generator & the spare are attached to the flimsy factory bumper?

[Bandit12]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Curious?
The 3500 generator & the spare are attached to the flimsy factory bumper?

No. I bought a tray that goes into the factory receiver hitch. Hitch is rated for 300 lbs and the tray is rated for 500 lbs. I only put the generator on that tray and it weighs 100 lbs, well under the lowest rated piece back there. I've watched the generator in the back up camera to make sure its not bouncing around too much. The only thing on the bumper is the spare tire carrier. The factory installed on the right side of the trailer, nearly obscuring the view of the license plate. I merely moved it to the left side closer to the roof ladder.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by CampNBrew2

Were you finding it eating your battery charge? This is on my list as well, but since adding the solar it's not been a priority. Curious to see if you get freezing door seal issues. I guess you could run it for an hr a day or so if needed.

Sorry, just noticed this.

I read that the heat strip pulled over an amp of power and that seemed wasteful, so I added the switch... I would rather use that power for longer furnace run times, when we are boondocking.

I have a 100 watt solar panel to charge the batteries up during the day and a generator if necessary.

I have not noticed any excess moisture on the fridge cabinet, so far.

-Brian

[CampNBrew2]

Originally Posted by B-O-B'03

Sorry, just noticed this.
I read that the heat strip pulled over an amp of power and that seemed wasteful, so I added the switch... I would rather use that power for longer furnace run times, when we are boondocking.
-Brian

Thanks Brian!
My Atwood just died. The dreaded cool in freezer only and percolating in the boiler. As far as I can tell, it leaked at the factory process tube where it was filled. A tiny bit of white crust there. Extremely frustrating because everything else worked great. The service manual has a procedure to run diagnostics to show the "stress level" of the cooling unit. I assume this is a log of high temperatures? Mine had zero.

I could find nobody in the country to repair or buy a replacement cooling unit. I spoke with several of the larger cooling unit remanufacturers to try and get dimensions to modify my cabinet to match another brand. No go. They are truly obsolete unfortunately.

So I just purchased a new Norcold Polar 7. I also bit the bullet and purchased the ARP with fan controller. While searching in the wiring diagram hooking up the ARP, I found the wire feeding the heat strip to do the same as you. I don't know if the heat strip runs based on time or temperature, but will only turn it on if it starts to freeze.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by CampNBrew2

Thanks Brian!
My Atwood just died. The dreaded cool in freezer only and percolating in the boiler. As far as I can tell, it leaked at the factory process tube where it was filled. A tiny bit of white crust there. Extremely frustrating because everything else worked great. The service manual has a procedure to run diagnostics to show the "stress level" of the cooling unit. I assume this is a log of high temperatures? Mine had zero.

I could find nobody in the country to repair or buy a replacement cooling unit. I spoke with several of the larger cooling unit remanufacturers to try and get dimensions to modify my cabinet to match another brand. No go. They are truly obsolete unfortunately.

So I just purchased a new Norcold Polar 7. I also bit the bullet and purchased the ARP with fan controller. While searching in the wiring diagram hooking up the ARP, I found the wire feeding the heat strip to do the same as you. I don't know if the heat strip runs based on time or temperature, but will only turn it on if it starts to freeze.

Hi Chris,

Ouch, that sounds spendy.

How was the fitment, any issues?

What prompted the 7 over the 8?

What isthe ARP?

Guess I should not say anything about mine, don't want to jinx myself.

-Brian

[bobbecky]

https://www.arprv.com/

[CampNBrew2]

Bobbecky beat me to the link. Basically a controller to prevent the boiler from overheating. My miserly side thought of simply buying a snap disc thermostat to attach to the boiler tube. My nerd brain thought it would be cool to build an Arduino controller. In the end my busy side won out and I just bought it. Good insurance and hopefully the fan controls will help with efficiency.

Kind of the same reason I did not buy the 8cu ft fridge for only slightly more- I'm too busy to rebuild the base it sits on. It is doable, as the 8' was an option for our trailers. In mine, I would have to reroute the vent stack slightly, reroute a whole bundle of wiring (likely having to extend them), and rebuild the framing, base, baffle panel and front louver over the furnace. I figure the 7 is already slightly larger than existing and we don't really have any issues with that size. We already take way too much food anyway

Fitment is right on the money. I like the Atwood latch much better, as well as it's ability to latch partially open so it stays aired out. The Norcold does not have this latch. I'll find something to use for this.

I thought I was going to have to remove the trailer door frame to get it in but it JUST squeeks by.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by CampNBrew2

Bobbecky beat me to the link. Basically a controller to prevent the boiler from overheating. My miserly side thought of simply buying a snap disc thermostat to attach to the boiler tube. My nerd brain thought it would be cool to build an Arduino controller. In the end my busy side won out and I just bought it. Good insurance and hopefully the fan controls will help with efficiency.

Kind of the same reason I did not buy the 8cu ft fridge for only slightly more- I'm too busy to rebuild the base it sits on. It is doable, as the 8' was an option for our trailers. In mine, I would have to reroute the vent stack slightly, reroute a whole bundle of wiring (likely having to extend them), and rebuild the framing, base, baffle panel and front louver over the furnace. I figure the 7 is already slightly larger than existing and we don't really have any issues with that size. We already take way too much food anyway

Fitment is right on the money. I like the Atwood latch much better, as well as it's ability to latch partially open so it stays aired out. The Norcold does not have this latch. I'll find something to use for this.

I thought I was going to have to remove the trailer door frame to get it in but it JUST squeeks by.

So, you did not have the 8' Atwood?

Mine is an 8', would the Norcold just drop right in?

I had to pull my Atwood most of the way out, so I could install some better bracing to mount it to, instead of the cheap particle board that keystone used and the screws pulled out of and it was quite a job by myself.

Not looking forward to having to replace the Atwood, I hope it lives a long time

Thanks for the info.

-Brian

[Bill-2020]

Filled the grey tank full up with 40 gallons of water and 25 oz of Dawn dish soap... seems we’ve got some misbehaving sensors that need a cleaning. I’ll let this sit for two days, drain it, fill up 1/3 the way with fresh mix of soapy water and head out Friday morning to a site for a three day weekend about 90 minutes NW of here. Hopeful the traveling portion of soapy water mix will get the last of the gunk off the tank walls as it sloshes around.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Bill-2020

Filled the grey tank full up with 40 gallons of water and 25 oz of Dawn dish soap... seems we’ve got some misbehaving sensors that need a cleaning. I’ll let this sit for two days, drain it, fill up 1/3 the way with fresh mix of soapy water and head out Friday morning to a site for a three day weekend about 90 minutes NW of here. Hopeful the traveling portion of soapy water mix will get the last of the gunk off the tank walls as it sloshes around.

I wouldn't put to much faith, time or $$ in those sensors! They are notorious for being completely useless.

[Bill-2020]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

I wouldn't put to much faith, time or $$ in those sensors! They are notorious for being completely useless.

That’s what I hear. I’ve never had any big problems with them. First camper did ok and didn’t have any issues with those, and this one has been good too except I neglected to rinse the grey tank from a trip in January so... it’s a swirl of Dawn and hope for the best!

[CampNBrew2]

Originally Posted by B-O-B'03

So, you did not have the 8' Atwood?
Mine is an 8', would the Norcold just drop right in?
-Brian

No mine was the 6'. A new 8' should drop in as the dimensions are fairly standard I believe. Mine has some room to cut the trim if I had to. Yours is likely the same.

You should be good. I have heard of control board issues with these but mine always worked great. Very bummed that it leaked after all this time- and not a boiler issue just a factory weld

One of the companies (Amish?) does have Atwood 8' model replacement cooling units so that is better than my situation.