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Old 04-06-2021, 02:23 PM   #1
ckepka
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Installing Solar

Hi,
I have a Outback 24URS...does anyone know "blue prints" of that trailer, or the best way to install solar panels on the roof of my trailer?

I'm worried about thickness and not mounting the panels into a stud/wall or something thicker than the thickness of the roof. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions?

I'm putting in 2 100W panels.
https://www.renogy.com/200-watt-12-v...r-starter-kit/

Thanks!
Chip
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Old 04-06-2021, 03:39 PM   #2
KRumm
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Hello Chip,
If you get up on your roof you should be able to see the seams 4 x 8 sheets of plywood under the roofing material every 4 feet where they meet will have stud underneath and there will be two others between the seams at 16” intervals... I tried to stay away from the plywood seams as there is a lot meeting there as is and focused on leading mounts of the panels hitting a 16” support...
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Old 04-06-2021, 03:46 PM   #3
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You can put them pretty much anywhere you want for maximum exposure. If your buying a “kit” the screws provided will be sufficient to hold the panels to the roof decking.

I like to set the panel where I want it, put 1 screw in opposite corners about 1/2 in to hold it in place. Then I lift the mounting bracket, squirt some Dicor self leveling under it. Drive the screws through the Dicor and then cover the bracket in Dicor.
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Old 04-08-2021, 03:07 PM   #4
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Agreed, layout your roof expecting 4-6 panels even if your starting with just 1.
Put it where you want to, I have three mounted just into plywood roof just like chuck explained, no problems at all.
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Old 04-29-2021, 03:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
You can put them pretty much anywhere you want for maximum exposure. If your buying a “kit” the screws provided will be sufficient to hold the panels to the roof decking.

I like to set the panel where I want it, put 1 screw in opposite corners about 1/2 in to hold it in place. Then I lift the mounting bracket, squirt some Dicor self leveling under it. Drive the screws through the Dicor and then cover the bracket in Dicor.
^^ What he said. I mounted three more panels to add to my single 175 watt OTG factory setup. Vents and other rooftop items dictated where I could place the other three panels.
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Old 05-18-2021, 04:57 AM   #6
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Ditto on what these guys said. Put them wherever you want and screw them down. That plywood on the roof is thick enough to handle the small amount of weight a solar panel weighs with no issue. Just remember that you have to run wires from your panels inside the rv, so where you put them does make a difference, unless you want wires running all over your roof.
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Old 09-08-2021, 03:10 PM   #7
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Ditto on what these guys said. Put them wherever you want and screw them down. That plywood on the roof is thick enough to handle the small amount of weight a solar panel weighs with no issue. Just remember that you have to run wires from your panels inside the rv, so where you put them does make a difference, unless you want wires running all over your roof.
What is the thickness of the plywood they use for the roof?
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Old 09-08-2021, 06:37 PM   #8
GHen
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Not sure on yours, mine is about 3/8”.
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Old 09-08-2021, 08:43 PM   #9
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The roof material on mine is 3/8 OSB. Screws in OSB tend to loosen up over time when there are stress loads/vibrations. Plywood is much better. I made sure that when I mounted my 200 watt panel that I would screw into a roof truss, but not at the OSB sheathing seams.
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Old 09-09-2021, 03:16 AM   #10
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Within the next month I'm about to go down this road...I've been curious...would a stud finder help find the studs? I know that I've actually used them with sub flooring in a house and it seemed to work.
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Old 09-09-2021, 07:25 PM   #11
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I used a stud finder to locate the roof truss. It did locate them thru the roof membrane. Located the outer edges of the truss then marked center. It did take several attempt's to try and duplicate my reference marks. I did this in a 30 inch area following the truss direction, at 5 different spots. Then used a straight edge to line them all up. Made all my marks on blue painters tape. Also used a metal scanner to locate all the staples and screws so I could stay away from them.
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Old 09-09-2021, 08:08 PM   #12
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I just installed panels about a month ago, tried my newer stud finder, thought it was working pretty well. Not, drilled pilot holes for all my screws. I don’t think I hit a stud anywhere.
A couple things to think about, being able to “tilt” your panels toward the sun can have a big effect on their effectiveness. And I installed my panels on Unistrut so I can add or change out panels if needed, also helps spread out the load. Best of luck! 😊
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Old 09-10-2021, 07:12 AM   #13
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I hit every roof truss. I used 2 different stud finders with the same results. I slid the stud finder over the blue tape so I could press it firmly without it trying to stick to the roof membrane. Even though my marks for the outer edges of the truss where at different widths, the centers were all the same. It was very tedious. When I drilled my pilot hole for the screws, the drill had to go thru about 1 1/8" of wood. Which was correct for my trailer because the roof truss where 3/4" and the OSB was 3/8". I think its so hard because the membrane and the fact that the OSB in some places wasn't firmly contacting the truss. Even though there were staples and screws. I pulled a interior roof vent to see what I was getting into. It is very scary to see the quality in which they are built.
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Old 09-24-2021, 02:26 AM   #14
SR71 Jet Mech
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I actually screwed mine where they “fit”
Had the first five on for three years and when I removed them to relocate to add tilt up capability and a second string they were STUCK!!
I put VHB between the brackets and the membrane and the Dicor over. Doubt the dicor will let the screws loosen. Mine didn’t.
Also designed and installed the tilt system.
Works well.
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Old 09-24-2021, 08:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SR71 Jet Mech View Post
I actually screwed mine where they “fit”
Had the first five on for three years and when I removed them to relocate to add tilt up capability and a second string they were STUCK!!
I put VHB between the brackets and the membrane and the Dicor over. Doubt the dicor will let the screws loosen. Mine didn’t.
Also designed and installed the tilt system.
Works well.
Nice looking set up! I would like to have been able to find a “stud” somewhere but not going to loose any sleep over not. Did you make your tilting mechanism? Mine are manual tilt!
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Old 09-24-2021, 04:11 PM   #16
SR71 Jet Mech
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Nice looking set up! I would like to have been able to find a “stud” somewhere but not going to loose any sleep over not. Did you make your tilting mechanism? Mine are manual tilt!
Yes I did. Built the brackets and added the gas assist shocks. Put rivnuts in the inside brackets and have a “thumb screw” to remove and just flip them up. Going to Colorado next week to really put them to the test.

I also have 600w of “portable” panels for a total of 1600w. One 300 ah Lithium battery. I have a residential fridge that is power hungry.

I also bought a 6000 btu window air conditioner and it works so well I may take the roof units off. 35 amps on 12v vs. 130 amps per roof unit.
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Old 09-24-2021, 04:22 PM   #17
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You ever see Rick from Pawn Stars ranch in Oregon? Off grid ..pretty cool
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Old 09-24-2021, 04:30 PM   #18
SR71 Jet Mech
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You ever see Rick from Pawn Stars ranch in Oregon? Off grid ..pretty cool
Haha yes I have and I too have a goal. When we retire here in a year or so, we’re looking for property and hopefully build an off grid joint.

This project is “working out the bugs”. This last upgrade is the fourth and hopefully the last to the fiver. All I have to do is figure out the heat thing which will probably be a diesel air heater and remove the furnace.

My next project is going to be a pickup camper as a “second”, totally outfit it for off grid boondocking, then to the off grid property!

Drives the DW crazy

But……she gets it
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