Single Axle Camper, Slight Nose Up Towing

[Auto Parts Guy]

Hello all, just wanted some other opinions besides my own, I know level is best and slight nose down is better than slight nose up, but is it really that relevant on a single axle trailer?

I have a weight distribution hitch with the anti-sway bar installed. It pulls nicely with no sway, brakes work great, no rub anywhere, I'm just wondering am i missing something for smaller single axle trailers with slight nose up? Besides MPGs which aren't great anyway

My hitch is on the lowest setting so I would have to change it out if I needed to go lower.

TV is a 2004 Avalanche 2500 w/ 35" tires & 4.88 gears
TT is a 2016 Keystone Hideout 185LHS

What say you all?

[flybouy]

With a lifted truck you need a drop hitch to match offset the lift. The rear of the camper could get damaged if you run thru a large dip that often lay in wait going into or exiting gas stations.

[RollaMo]

Not sure what hitch you have, but just about all of them have options for a longer shank.

When I moved from my previous 1/2 ton to my current 3/4 ton, I purchased a longer drop shank for my Equalizer hitch.
You keep all your current hitch head, and just transfer it to the longer shank, which allows you to set it down lower.

[Auto Parts Guy]

I've got a different drop shank I use for my other truck, it may work on the lowest setting. Just not sure if it's necessary in this situation?

I guess my biggest question is, are there any other negatives to running slightly nose up on a single axle TT other than scrubbing or maybe MPG? This little camper pulls and maneuvers in parks pretty well, even on uneven terrain. I understand the other negatives on dual and tri axles.

Maybe I'm just being cheap and lazy? My other drop shank is tubular, the current one is solid cast.

[sourdough]

You need a drop shank because that lift is pulling the nose up - or pull the lift and 35s. Nose up and highway speeds will give you some squirrely driving. A lift with 35s should always have a drop shank. IMO it's a matter of safety and control of the trailer. When "it" happens there's no time to say "I'll get a safer hitch tomorrow".

[Auto Parts Guy]

I'll try the other drop shank I have or grab a new one for our next outing and report back. I havent gone interstate with the camper yet, only max 60-65mph down some hills and all was good. But you're right, better to be safe.

Don't get me wrong, it's only an inch or 2 high up front but still, it's not level like it's supposed to be. I just kept thinking about the logic behind it on a single axle trailer after reading other threads and couldn't really come up with much.

[hawghauler]

That things gunna wag like a puppys tail at about 70 drop the front to level or slightly below

[bsmith0404]

Probably more important on a single axle than double axle. It may tow nice now, but if the weight changes a bit and you end up a little lighter on the nose combined with nose high and get hit with a crosswind, it could definitely start dancing on you.

[bobbecky]

Another issue with a single axle versus a tandem axle trailer is, make sure you have the very best tires you can get for it, because when you lose a tire, you don't have another tire on the blowout or flat side to easily get off the road to a safe location.

[NC Camper]

If the trailer is nose-up, I would think the weight bars are not giving any benefit. Lacking that benefit increases sway, plus I expect more sway with a nose-up trailer.

Check the hitch manufacturer web site for hitch install instructions.

Aside from that, unhitched and with both vehicles on level ground, the top of the ball should be about 3/4" to 1" above the top of the coupler. If you cannot adjust your existing shank to achieve that, consider a new shank with more drop.

A nose-down trailer can be remedied by adjusting the weight bars or the hitch angle. In this adjustment, ensure the distance from the ground to the top of the front wheel well is the same when hitched and unhitched.