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Old 03-03-2022, 08:26 AM   #41
Skins44
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Unfortuntely, i don't have a resolution to your problem, however i will say that i did the exact same thing when i arrived to my destination in a thunderstorm. Hooked city water hose to black tank rinse. Continued on with my set-up and noticed an excessive amount of water (in addition to the rain) running off of the roof (from the black tank roof vent). closer inspection confirmed the worst case scenario. What i did next was my big mistake...went to the bathroom and tried to flush. It was so hard to pull the flush due to the pressure. When i finally pulled it, **** hit the fan literally. Luckily, my tank was empty, and rinsed, from my previous trip so it could have been worse. the water from the toilet ran over and into my heat vent. there was small gap between my vent and the sub floor that allowed the waste water to flow down to the chloroplast. It was enough to make it look like a pipe cracked or a seal blew. I poked a couple of holes to let it drain and since patched them. Thankfully, no seals blew, nothing cracked in my case. Just an awful mess and cleanup. Been 2 years now.

Sounds like you are on the right track. Lots of good guys and help on here to get you on your way to a fix. The moral support is refreshing as well. I am steadily checking the mistake boxes as i go, however never had an issue i couldn't overcome myself with the help of this forum. And, better than waiting 6 months for some dealer to go back and forth with the manufacturer.
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Old 03-03-2022, 08:43 AM   #42
charger
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Unfortunately I did the same thing last summer, but when I took my fifth wheel to the dealership for repair, they informed me that this happens all the time, your black water tank is actually designed in case this happens. The banging noises you heard were the retaining straps releasing, and most likely the reason why you have sewage leaking is that there is a break away in the system so you don’t damage your black water tank. Most of the time the tank itself isn’t damaged, you’ll probably need to purchase new retainer straps and reinstall the tank and reconnect the plumbing. You should also remove most of the under belly cover and let it dry out for a while. I would only attempt this repair yourself if you feel that you would be confident in doing it yourself, otherwise I would either take it to your dealership or someone times you might have a mobile repairman do it for you.
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Old 03-03-2022, 09:07 AM   #43
pdaniel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikemechanic53 View Post
SO. I screwed up big time this morning. I went to a water source to fill my fresh water tank. Unfortunately, I thought I had previously connected the input water hose to the bottom of the three fill connections. (I've only filled this once, got it about 2 weeks ago.)

I turned the water on (high) and waited. The water system started making strange noises, then BANG and another BANG. Sewage began pouring out the bottom of the trailer all over the place.

Apparently I had connected the city water line to the tank flush valve. This pressurized the black tank and pipes. Something burst, letting the extra pressure and sewage out. It was not the toilet connection, as it is solid. I cannot see any of the other black tank connections.

I don't know what blew out. I'll have to drop the corroplast and examine the underside.

Does anyone know what could have blown. And how screwed am I?
(my wife has told me how screwed I am, but that's a different topic)

Tom
Not sure what you have done, but, I am a campground host and continually tell RV people at the dump station to make sure their dump valve is open or the will have a “crappy” mess to clean up.
Fortunately my RV has a separate inlet for flushing the black tank that is never left connected to a hose.
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Old 03-03-2022, 10:21 AM   #44
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I did the same thing

I hate to admit this, but I have done this twice. The first time was with my old trailer, a 2007 Sandpiper. The water pushed up the roof vent and poured over the roof. But other than the horror of it, nothing was damaged.

The second time I did it was with our new Avalanche 395BH. My problem is, I am doing to many things and get distracted. I walked away for a second and when I remembered. Water was pouring out from under the frame around the coroplast. What was weird was, it did not go up the vent tube to the roof. Not sure why. I assume there might be a one way check valve? Not sure.

So I immediately pulled the tank dump valve to relieve the pressure. I think I caught it soon enough because it only leaked underneath a small amount. It was summer time and quickly dried out. I have never had a problem since. We have been using the trailer ever since.

So, this makes me think there must be some sort of pressure release on the tank. Or, it possibly pushed water up to the toilet valve and leaked past the valve and back down. I’m really not sure. But for now, I think I dodged a bullet.

I have now promised myself. I WILL NOT walk away from the dump station when flushing the tanks. And it I have too, I will turn the water off.

You may be alright.

On another note. The way Keystone plumbs their tanks is ludicrous. The rear black tank in my 395BH is plumbed to the toilet, shower and outside sink. The rear bathroom sink is the inly thing connected to the rear grey tank?!?!?!?!

That is stupid. One or two quick showers in the rear bathroom and the black tank is full.

So I decided to buy a termination valve for the end of the dump line. When we are on full hookups, I leave both the rear black and grey tanks open and only use the valve at the end of the dump line. I open it all up when we are camping and let the shower water continuously flush the black tank.

This, however is not ideal at all for boondocking. There is no way to dump or leak off the grey water in the rear.

Keys
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Old 03-03-2022, 10:27 AM   #45
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Out of all the replies on here, I will give you the best one.
When you drop the cloroplast, keep your mouth closed and wear protective eye ware. And do not lick your lips or bite your nails.....
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Old 03-03-2022, 11:11 AM   #46
bikemechanic53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirdkeys View Post
I hate to admit this, but I have done this twice. The first time was with my old trailer, a 2007 Sandpiper. The water pushed up the roof vent and poured over the roof. But other than the horror of it, nothing was damaged.

The second time I did it was with our new Avalanche 395BH. My problem is, I am doing to many things and get distracted. I walked away for a second and when I remembered. Water was pouring out from under the frame around the coroplast. What was weird was, it did not go up the vent tube to the roof. Not sure why. I assume there might be a one way check valve? Not sure.

So I immediately pulled the tank dump valve to relieve the pressure. I think I caught it soon enough because it only leaked underneath a small amount. It was summer time and quickly dried out. I have never had a problem since. We have been using the trailer ever since.

So, this makes me think there must be some sort of pressure release on the tank. Or, it possibly pushed water up to the toilet valve and leaked past the valve and back down. I’m really not sure. But for now, I think I dodged a bullet.

I have now promised myself. I WILL NOT walk away from the dump station when flushing the tanks. And it I have too, I will turn the water off.

You may be alright.

On another note. The way Keystone plumbs their tanks is ludicrous. The rear black tank in my 395BH is plumbed to the toilet, shower and outside sink. The rear bathroom sink is the inly thing connected to the rear grey tank?!?!?!?!

That is stupid. One or two quick showers in the rear bathroom and the black tank is full.

So I decided to buy a termination valve for the end of the dump line. When we are on full hookups, I leave both the rear black and grey tanks open and only use the valve at the end of the dump line. I open it all up when we are camping and let the shower water continuously flush the black tank.

This, however is not ideal at all for boondocking. There is no way to dump or leak off the grey water in the rear.

Keys
I called Keystone and the tank maker Ameri-Kart Corp. They do not put pressure relief valves in their tanks. They said most likely the glued seal between the top and the bottom of the tank let go. I could drop it and try to re-glue it. But I'm just going to get another tank.
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Old 03-03-2022, 11:20 AM   #47
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Hi, I usually just read these posts, as there are waaay smarter people on here. I have twice done this wi my 2010 Laredo fifth wheel. Both times I walked away wi the black tank flush going and the dump valve shut… so dumb.
Anyway, both times the leak was not evident until recreating the circumstances. The black tank flush sealant had given way allowing a surprising volume of mostly water to come out. I have twice replaced the black tank flusher and put in all new dump valves. The access to the area is not zip tie sewn and taped to allow easier access for next time, as saying “I won’t do that again” is ridiculous…
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Old 03-03-2022, 12:47 PM   #48
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Maybe we need a little sticker on the side of the trailer showing a toilet overflowing, one for each time you have over flushed a tank, you know like the fighter pilots have on the cockpit of their jet
I'm in the club also. Best remedy I have found is a chair, a beer and the stop watch on my phone. If I am flushing the tanks that's ALL I am doing. It's easy to get distracted so I just set anchor for the task at hand. I usually run the flush for 4 minutes (after emptying the tank) then empty and repeat two more times. Yeah it takes time, but that's what the chair and beer are for
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Old 03-03-2022, 03:10 PM   #49
bikemechanic53
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Maybe we need a little sticker on the side of the trailer showing a toilet overflowing, one for each time you have over flushed a tank, you know like the fighter pilots have on the cockpit of their jet
I'm in the club also. Best remedy I have found is a chair, a beer and the stop watch on my phone. If I am flushing the tanks that's ALL I am doing. It's easy to get distracted so I just set anchor for the task at hand. I usually run the flush for 4 minutes (after emptying the tank) then empty and repeat two more times. Yeah it takes time, but that's what the chair and beer are for
RMc
Excellent! I like that idea. Kind of like a poop emoji.

The replacement tank is supposed to be here Monday. Then off to dump again (see if I can get it right this time) and pull the tank and replace.
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Old 03-03-2022, 03:33 PM   #50
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You could wire a n.o. micro switch to the dump valve, a flow sensor in the flush line and a relay to energize a klaxon horn and rotating light like a nuclear powerplant melting down.
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Old 03-03-2022, 05:34 PM   #51
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It’s easy to get distracted, I try not to talk to anyone when flushing the black water tank or looking at my phone. Since I never used the outside shower I hook the shower hose up to the black water tank flush. I have been distracted a time or two but luckily haven’t blew up the tank yet. But I have done enough dumb things. Last year I was not looking at where I was going and ran into a gate post with my truck, dumb things happen if you are lucky this will be the only dumb thing you have done. Me I could write a book
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Old 03-03-2022, 05:39 PM   #52
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It’s easy to get distracted, I try not to talk to anyone when flushing the black water tank or looking at my phone. Since I never used the outside shower I hook the shower hose up to the black water tank flush. I have been distracted a time or two but luckily haven’t blew up the tank yet. But I have done enough dumb things. Last year I was not looking at where I was going and ran into a gate post with my truck, dumb things happen if you are lucky this will be the only dumb thing you have done. Me I could write a book
Might need another chapter to your book

Using that shower hose may back siphon black tank water into your fresh water…it’s a long shot but I wouldn’t use it

I could be wrong but I don’t ever mix good hoses with bad things
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Old 03-03-2022, 06:11 PM   #53
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I did the same. I hooked up the city water to the wrong inlet and walked away
Wife called out that there was no water at the outlets. I went back and looked, water and sewage was pouringout if the Chloroplast, needless to say the tank was cracked. We were ub the middle of a month long trip. We soldiered on using the facilities in the RV parks. We took it to the RV repair and we found out the damage, I had cracked the bottom of the tank. The only good thing about it was the Good San Service Contract. I only had to oay the $500,00 deductible on a &1300.00 repair.
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Old 03-04-2022, 05:45 AM   #54
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Might need another chapter to your book

Using that shower hose may back siphon black tank water into your fresh water…it’s a long shot but I wouldn’t use it

I could be wrong but I don’t ever mix good hoses with bad things
I have 2 backflow preventers on that line so no chance of black water coming back. Sometimes I run hot water in to loosen up any stuck on debris.
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Old 03-06-2022, 02:38 AM   #55
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Excellent! I like that idea. Kind of like a poop emoji.

The replacement tank is supposed to be here Monday. Then off to dump again (see if I can get it right this time) and pull the tank and replace.
I watched this video on keystones website…it shows the tanks and the fiittings that are on top. Notice the clear plastic flush tank plugs on some of the tanks……wonder if that’s what blew out …it also said the tanks are one piece..not sure if that’s a new design from 2016. https://www.keystonerv.com/innovatio...-wheel-chassis
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Old 03-06-2022, 09:52 AM   #56
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There are several different types of "holding tank construction" methods. The cheapest is "injection molding with a glued top" (on Amazon, about $120 for a 35 gallon tank) and the most expensive, "rotocast, one piece" (on Amazon, about $240 for a 35 gallon tank)....

I'd suspect that everyone here can pretty much guess which ones Keystone uses....

Here's a link to how a "rotocast tank is produced". As you can see, it ends up as a "one piece tank with no seams to split", but like a balloon, it can overpressurize and split, however it's a much stronger (and more expensive) tank product.

Here's photos of a rotocast and a glued/welded top black tank

Why should we be aware of both types of holding tanks? Because there are some rotocast tanks in some Keystone RV's. Knowing what's in your RV would eliminate a "split top tank" possibility if you have rotocast tanks, or more likely, knowing you have "glued top tanks" would increase the probability that is what gave way as the weakest link if you hear a "boom"....
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Old 03-07-2022, 04:55 AM   #57
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Thanks for the two links to videos. Removes a lot of questions on / about tanks.
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Old 03-13-2022, 09:46 AM   #58
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Excellent! I like that idea. Kind of like a poop emoji.

The replacement tank is supposed to be here Monday. Then off to dump again (see if I can get it right this time) and pull the tank and replace.
Any updates? Kinda curious how it turned out
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Old 03-13-2022, 10:15 AM   #59
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Well, the tank I bought was an Icon, glued top. Even these are expensive. $500 from a regular tank supplier, plus $250 for shipping! I did find one cheaper that had it's box torn up. That tank appears OK.

However, I could not find the toilet-to-tank fitting locally, so had to order one. Won't be here till next week. At that time, I expect to dump and clean out the old tank. Then saw off the two input pipes and the exit pipe. I then unbolt the left side support and (very hopefully) pull the old tank out. Then weasel the new one in place, rebolt the support. Then cut the two top holes for toilet and vent. I hope to be able to reuse the gate valve, but it is attached very close to the tank outlet. We'll see after I cut the old tank out.

I'm using this project to insulate the tank area and route a pipe from the furnace into the belly. Be good to have that done before I return to Oregon.
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Old 03-13-2022, 10:19 AM   #60
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Well, the tank I bought was an Icon, glued top. Even these are expensive. $500 from a regular tank supplier, plus $250 for shipping! I did find one cheaper that had it's box torn up. That tank appears OK.

However, I could not find the toilet-to-tank fitting locally, so had to order one. Won't be here till next week. At that time, I expect to dump and clean out the old tank. Then saw off the two input pipes and the exit pipe. I then unbolt the left side support and (very hopefully) pull the old tank out. Then weasel the new one in place, rebolt the support. Then cut the two top holes for toilet and vent. I hope to be able to reuse the gate valve, but it is attached very close to the tank outlet. We'll see after I cut the old tank out.

I'm using this project to insulate the tank area and route a pipe from the furnace into the belly. Be good to have that done before I return to Oregon.

Keep us updated..maybe you could rig up a portable black tank tote to use while your repairing it ? Unless you have nearby facilities you may be able to attach some flexible hose from the tote to what ever pipe is left from the toilet.

Need to closely watch it though for overfill
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