What kind of converter do I have?

[Oparollin]

I have a 2021 MHC 280CK and I would like to verify what kind of converter this model comes with and does it support or have these three charge modes: bulk, absorption and float?
voltage output modes: 13.2 VDC range “float” mode,
13.6 VDC range “absorption” mode,
14.4 VDC range “bulk” charge mode.

[hankpage]

I don't recall any Keystone trailers in the past ten years (at Least) that did not come from the factory without a three stage converter/charger. I'm sure someone else will be along to back me up on this. Enjoy your new trailer, Hank

[GHen]

Drain your batteries a bit, plug the trailer into shore power. Check to voltage going to the batteries and you find out real fast.

Over the next couple hour you will see the voltage drop as it moves from one phase to the next.
14.4 then 13.6, 13.2. Then unplug, let rest for 30 minutes and you should see 12.7 for a good, charged battery. If it won’t stay over 12 volts, you got a bad battery.

Don’t have a volt meter….it’s a must have for an rv. Even a cheap one from harbor freight is better than nothing.

[snoobler]

Originally Posted by GHen

Drain your batteries a bit, plug the trailer into shore power. Check to voltage going to the batteries and you find out real fast.

Over the next couple hour you will see the voltage drop as it moves from one phase to the next.
14.4 then 13.6, 13.2. Then unplug, let rest for 30 minutes and you should see 12.7 for a good, charged battery. If it won’t stay over 12 volts, you got a bad battery.

Don’t have a volt meter….it’s a must have for an rv. Even a cheap one from harbor freight is better than nothing.

Attachment 37095

Unfortunately, the wiring in most trailers makes this method unreliable.

It's best to take voltage readings AT the converter to overcome the wiring loss most trailers have.

And if you can access the converter to take the measurements, then you have your answer, make and model, and you can look up the specs.

Lastly, it's important to note that the chart of voltages is for batteries with no charge or discharge current for at least a couple of hours. An instantaneous voltage reading with unknown net current may tell you nothing.

30 minutes may be inadequate. If you only wait 30 minutes, your fully charged voltage will be higher than the table.

Those numbers are more typical for flooded cells. AGMs tend to be a little higher than flooded.

[GHen]

Originally Posted by snoobler

Unfortunately, the wiring in most trailers makes this method unreliable.

It's best to take voltage readings AT the converter to overcome the wiring loss most trailers have.

And if you can access the converter to take the measurements, then you have your answer, make and model, and you can look up the specs.

Lastly, it's important to note that the chart of voltages is for batteries with no charge or discharge current for at least a couple of hours. An instantaneous voltage reading with unknown net current may tell you nothing.

30 minutes may be inadequate. If you only wait 30 minutes, your fully charged voltage will be higher than the table.

Those numbers are more typical for flooded cells. AGMs tend to be a little higher than flooded.

How many minutes rest do you recommend before taking a battery voltage measurement?

[JRTJH]

Before you start trying to read 14.4 VDC (in boost) or 13.2 VDC (in float) you really need to spend a few minutes on the WFCO website reading the theory of operation document and then the "how your converter works" documents.

I'm assuming your trailer has a WFCO power center, with very few exceptions, almost every Keystone trailer has that brand installed. Verify what's in your trailer, then, if it's WFCO (99% it is) then go to this link, read the theory of operation, https://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conte...eration-v2.pdf then to this link and download the owner's manual for "your specific converter model" https://wfcoelectronics.com/#tab-619302fb27f08 Click on PRODUCTS in the header bar, then click on POWER CENTER and/or CONVERTER tab to go to the model tree and select your model.

The owner's manual (not the brochure) will contain a section on how to troubleshoot your specific converter/charger. There are some differences, so trying to give "generalized instructions applicable to every model" is not possible.... Don't get caught up in trying to obtain 14.4 VDC for any specific time period and don't ever expect to sit in a trailer long enough to see the voltmeter drop from 13.6 to 13.2 VDC. You'll die of "old age" waiting for that to happen... Read the "Theory of Operation" and you'll understand why....

[Oparollin]

I found all the information I need at this site https://www.progressivedyn.com/ my model is a PD4560 and has what they call "charge wizard" https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/po...s/4500-series/
https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co...rd-Pendant.pdf

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Oparollin

I found all the information I need at this site https://www.progressivedyn.com/ my model is a PD4560 and has what they call "charge wizard" https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/po...s/4500-series/
https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co...rd-Pendant.pdf

Be sure to download and follow the 4500 troubleshooting procedure https://www.progressivedyn.com/suppo...-d78955a6-cf35 and https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co...LESHOOTING.pdf , paying special attention to step 4A. If you don't remove the reverse polarity fuses, the battery voltage will be "sensed by the converter voltage regulator" and will inhibit converter voltage/current output... PD "removes the RP fuses" while WFCO disconnects the battery cables.... BOTH systems must be disconnected from the battery to properly troubleshoot....