Newbie Winterizing Question

[side_burns]

Hello all,

I'm getting ready to winterize my 2019 Passport 240BHS for the first time and I have a question that has not been covered in any of the YouTube videos I've been watching.

I know that I need to open my low point drains and faucets to drain the water out of the system, but what happens to the water that comes out of the faucets and into the grey water tank?

Do I need to empty the grey water tank at the end? Do I need to catch all the water from the faucets/shower etc in buckets and dump them?

This is one of those things that feels dumb because none of the videos bother to touch on it. Any input is appreciated.

Thanks!

[JRTJH]

Here's a link to one procedure you might consider: https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...d.php?t=20540c

Essentially, the objective to "winterizing" the plumbing is to remove all the water that can turn to ice and expand when it freezes that can damage or destroy the plumbing system.

Removing the water is paramount on winterizing. Yes, that includes all the water that "was in the fresh water lines" and is "now in the holding tanks"...

All the water needs to be removed from the trailer....

Then, RV antifreeze is introduced into those lines. Why? RV antifreeze will not expand when it freezes, so it won't "damage the system by creating inside pressure that causes cracks and splits in the plumbing components.

The two concepts, removing all the water and replacing it with RV antifreeze, is the "plumbing part" of winterizing....

Then you still have to clean, remove all food, prevent mold/mildew, guard against mice/vole infestation, leaks, protect against "winter UV damage", protect tires, metal components (rust/corrosion) as well as prepare the exterior by waxing/cleaning.....

Oh, and don't forget the tires, axles, bearings, brakes, propane system, bare metal on bumpers and frame, exposed wiring, gaps in the underbelly,

Winterizing is much more than "draining the fresh water lines"....

Your question: Do I need to empty the grey water tank at the end? The answer is, "Ideally, yes, remove all water from all components in the trailer"... That said, a cup of water left in the gray tank will not cause damage, a 1/4 full gray tank can (probably will) freeze, crack the tank sides/bottom and lead to an expensive repair bill in the spring....

I go so far as to leave all the faucets turned on so there's no water trapped inside the valve stems. Any (that means exactly that) ANY water left in the plumbing lines or components has the potential to migrate to a low spot, combine with other "few drops of water" to make for a "puddle that is large enough to do damage"... So, the objective, "remove all the water"... Failing that, 'remove as much of the water as possible".... That means from every part of the trailer, Fresh water system, black tank system, gray tank system, water heater, water pump, drain lines, low point drains, ice maker, condensation lines, and any "bottles of water stored in a cabinet.....

[dutchmensport]

Advise above is completely correct. Short answer to your question.

Drain all your holding tanks: Black and Grey (and your fresh water). Now pump the pink. Some water will go into your holding tanks, but not all that much. When done with the pink-stuff, drain what little bit is in the holding tanks.

Because of the way mine is configured, I pump some into the water heater and let it drain immediately with the plug pulled. I just want to see pink stuff run out. And some into the fresh water tank, and through the black tank flush line. Yes, it's a little more challenging when de-winterizing to clean out the residual antifreeze, but I know those lines are protected, and that's more important than the extra 10 minutes it takes to flush out the water heater and the fresh water tank. Like I said, mine is configured kind of strange. I just feel better doing it this way.

[side_burns]

Thanks for the info.

Im assuming that because it is just water in both the grey and black tanks that I don't need to go to a dumping station in order to drain them at the end?

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by side_burns

Thanks for the info.

Im assuming that because it is just water in both the grey and black tanks that I don't need to go to a dumping station in order to drain them at the end?

Once a black tank has been used, you will NEVER have "just water" in it !!!!!

Sort of like drinking fine wine out of the toilet bowl ....

[Falcon67]

Grey can go right on the ground. When we lived in the sticks, I replumbed the clothes washer to run out into the garden space just to keep the extra water and soap load out of the septic system.

Black is black - unless you flush the hell out of it, use caution. If it's clean and maybe shot a little bleach mix in there to help sanitize - maybe OK. Use your own judgement there. I wash the heck out of our blacks, so dropping a little left over before winter isn't a problem. Just be sure that if you run around with some fill water in the black that you drain it completely on the last run to home.
I like to see the antifreeze drain out a little anyway before closing the valve. Note - we have a means to dump at the house, so I have more control than most.

The new RV is more of a pain, looks like. Like, last month new. The propane water heater has to be drained. I assume - it's new - that there is a bypass so I can pump RV antifreeze through the hot side without it getting in the tank. Put antifreeze in the drains. I'll put enough in the fresh to pump through the lines, but thats all. Flush the pot to get it in the flush valve. I also dump some - gallon - in the black via the pot and in the gray via any available drain.

In our race trailer, there is a 120v 6 gallon water heater. I just set that to the "winter" setting and it stays warm. I pull the hoses off the water heater, cap the heater ports, then use an adapter to blow air through the water lines to clear them out. The water pump is under the sink and it gets an old school little heating pad on low as a backup. Could also use heat tape. Same on the tanks with a gallon of antifreeze. The fresh gets about 2 gallons, enough that it runs out the drain line. Which, nicely, is plumbed to the side of the trailer with a valve - not like the nipple on the Keystone that just hangs under the trailer. Which I will upgrade LOL, that's just tacky.

We've had the race trailer with bath package for 4 years and we came out from the Texas "snowmageddon" last February without damage. It was around zero or below for 4 days - unheard of in my 65 years in north Texas (DFW - Abilene areas)

[dutchmensport]

If the black tank is flushed out as good as you can get when you start the process, then if you do not have a sewer or a tote to drain into, then just catch what little bit comes out into a bucket and flush it down the toilet in your house. At most, it will probably be only a cup or two of liquid. You only flush the toilet long enough till the water turns pink, and that happens pretty quick.

You are correct, grey can go on the ground. If you live in town where neighbors can see you ... drain that last little bit at night. No one will ever know then.

[side_burns]

Thanks everyone. This is really helpful.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Falcon67

Grey can go right on the ground. When we lived in the sticks, I replumbed the clothes washer to run out into the garden space just to keep the extra water and soap load out of the septic system.

Black is black - unless you flush the hell out of it, use caution. If it's clean and maybe shot a little bleach mix in there to help sanitize - maybe OK. Use your own judgement there. I wash the heck out of our blacks, so dropping a little left over before winter isn't a problem. Just be sure that if you run around with some fill water in the black that you drain it completely on the last run to home.
I like to see the antifreeze drain out a little anyway before closing the valve. Note - we have a means to dump at the house, so I have more control than most.

The new RV is more of a pain, looks like. Like, last month new. The propane water heater has to be drained. I assume - it's new - that there is a bypass so I can pump RV antifreeze through the hot side without it getting in the tank. Put antifreeze in the drains. I'll put enough in the fresh to pump through the lines, but thats all. Flush the pot to get it in the flush valve. I also dump some - gallon - in the black via the pot and in the gray via any available drain.

In our race trailer, there is a 120v 6 gallon water heater. I just set that to the "winter" setting and it stays warm. I pull the hoses off the water heater, cap the heater ports, then use an adapter to blow air through the water lines to clear them out. The water pump is under the sink and it gets an old school little heating pad on low as a backup. Could also use heat tape. Same on the tanks with a gallon of antifreeze. The fresh gets about 2 gallons, enough that it runs out the drain line. Which, nicely, is plumbed to the side of the trailer with a valve - not like the nipple on the Keystone that just hangs under the trailer. Which I will upgrade LOL, that's just tacky.

We've had the race trailer with bath package for 4 years and we came out from the Texas "snowmageddon" last February without damage. It was around zero or below for 4 days - unheard of in my 65 years in north Texas (DFW - Abilene areas)

Personally other than a small diluted amount to sanitize the fresh water tank & lines after storage I wouldn't use bleach, especially straight bleach dumped into any holding tanks, not sure how it may affect the valve seals.
As mentioned earlier, any antifreeze dumped into the fresh tank will most likely be diluted enough to no longer be effective due to the water left in the tank that unless you violently rock the rv back & forth will never get drained. At any given time there could be a couple gallons left in the fresh tank long after it has quit draining.

[GHen]

Don’t forget to remove that partial case of soda in the back of that lowest cabinet that you have to get on your knees to see into, don’t ask me how I know, lol

[Falcon67]

If I put in any bleach, it's well diluted. I dump enough anti freeze in the fresh to run it out the drain, which takes 2-3 gallons, so whatever is left is well protected. Normal here is maybe 3-5 days below freezing, maybe 20f. Then high 30s to 60 or so most times. I still mow in December and January. I can heat my 960 sq/ft shop with a single 5kw electric heater. Last Feb was - I hope - a massive one off deal.

[PetersonPower]

1. Opening the low points first, then open facets. You’ll find that the water will be sucked back into the system and drained out the low points.

2. Drain the holding tanks.

3. When you push antifreeze through the system, antifreeze comes out the faucets and into the drain traps and holding tanks.
The antifreeze in the traps and holding tanks is good. It will prevent the traps from breaking and the dump valves from drying out.

Originally Posted by side_burns

Hello all,

I'm getting ready to winterize my 2019 Passport 240BHS for the first time and I have a question that has not been covered in any of the YouTube videos I've been watching.

I know that I need to open my low point drains and faucets to drain the water out of the system, but what happens to the water that comes out of the faucets and into the grey water tank?

Do I need to empty the grey water tank at the end? Do I need to catch all the water from the faucets/shower etc in buckets and dump them?

This is one of those things that feels dumb because none of the videos bother to touch on it. Any input is appreciated.

Thanks!

[PetersonPower]

Uh, yeah just know from a friend ��

[Mndiver]

A little rv antifreeze in the toilet to keep the seal from drying out?

[Falcon67]

More or less - I always put some antifreeze above the seal and check it once in a while. With two trailers now, going to have to buy that stuff by the case.

[Mndiver]

Did that with my ancient class C never checked till spring. But never had to replace that seal.

[Jchism759]

Originally Posted by Mndiver

A little rv antifreeze in the toilet to keep the seal from drying out?

Might be a good idea to put plumbers grease on toilet seal too, use a rubber glove.

[Falcon67]

Meh, just don't lick your fingers.

[Qwerty]

Don't forget the outside shower as I did last winter!

Water in the line caused the diverter tee to crack.