Lock lube

[chunker]

I'm not talking about the key tumbler but the handle and door lock mechanism. The Raptor has a rather awkward type door handle anyway pivoting at the bottom of the handle but the rear door doesn't close or open correctly. The handle sticks, the door latch doesn't close easily smoothly. The front door into the living area open easily, closes smoothly without slamming. I'm wondering if taking it out and seeing if something in the rear door latch isn't aligned correctly but first I'd like to try the correct lubrication to the mechanism. I tried a silicone spray with not much help. I don't want to gum it up by spraying silicone, teflon, lithium, penetrating oil, etc and create a gummed up mess that I have to disassemble to clean.

[flybouy]

If it's the latch/striker plate I've used beeswax (what the PDI tech recommended) and graphite powder for the tumbler and interior parts. Had that issue during our PDI and the tech had the items in his coveralls. He spent about 30 seconds to "fix" it. I've repeated this treatment about twice a year and haven't had an issue.

[chuckster57]

I use a dry silicone spray. Pull the handle to retract the striker, spray into the mechanism and operate the handle a few times.

[chunker]

Thanks I'll get some wax for the latch and striker. The other issue is the handle itself sticks being difficult to pull open and sticks in the open position. I don't see any adjustments to the handle itself. The front door is very smooth in opening and closing.

[chuckster57]

Loosen the screws that hold the inside plate, you can shift it a very small amount and you might get enough to make it smooth.

[flybouy]

I would try a dry lube first on the sticking pull handle and if that doesn't solve it then I'd remove it. Check for and debris that may have fallen into it or signs of binding like shiny marks an two surfaces that are in close proximity.

Edit: I use the small plastic container of graphite like this https://www.amazon.com/Graphite-Lubr...s%2C242&sr=8-6
One "puff" in the latch when the handle is pulled out and a "puff" in behind the handle where it goes into the door. It doesn't take much. When I apply a "puff" of graphite I'll operate the handle a few times while the graphite "cloud" is settling.

[chunker]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I use a dry silicone spray. Pull the handle to retract the striker, spray into the mechanism and operate the handle a few times.

Have you seen any difference between the silicone and the Teflon type spray? Sometime various different products interact together to make a mess. If so I'll clean it with some brake cleaner and "start again" in lubrication.

[chunker]

As I have relied several suggestions came in. I'll try the physical adjustment when I get home. I'm leaving tomorrow on a hopefully 2 month trip to the upper midwest and near north west, SD/ND/WY tomorrow. One kicker to this could be the remnants of Laura creating flooding in some of the areas enroute, TN and KY.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by chunker

Have you seen any difference between the silicone and the Teflon type spray? Sometime various different products interact together to make a mess. If so I'll clean it with some brake cleaner and "start again" in lubrication.

I'd be real careful with using brake cleaner. Some brands of that stuff will melt/dissolve any Styrofoam in the door.

[Northofu1]

I use this at work. For automotive or buildings, works on all locks. I do it yearly in doors. Works on cylinders, lock sets, hinges, etc. No drip, not petroleum based.
Use it on municipal trucks , pad locks, all year round, found that locks don't freeze with it.

[chunker]

Lock working now. First I loosened the inside assembly screws and that seemed to free up the stickiness. Then sprayed the latch and moving parts of the handle with teflon type spray and the door closes nicely, for now. Thanks to all for the suggestions.