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Old 03-09-2018, 11:24 AM   #1
RV6APilot
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Air conditioning straight replace or upgrade

Well, the Dometic A/C unit on our 2009 Cougar 318SAB has quit cooling. Have spent hours troubleshooting but it just doesn't cool any longer. Seems the compressor is not starting. Fan runs fine but again no cold air. As we will be going to Florida here in about 6 weeks(SunNFun 2018) I definitely need to have the A/C working. So the question is can I/do I upgrade the unit with a 15KBTU unit or stay with a 13.5K unit? Has anyone done this on
a 30A electrical system? Inquiring minds want to know.

Thanks!
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:07 PM   #2
vampress_me
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All I can say is that we have a 28RDB with a 30amp connection that came with a 15K A/C unit. It was sold to us as having a 13.5K unit, but obviously didn’t. Hubby wanted to change out what we thought was the 13.5 unit for the PS version (power save) that would work with a single Honda generator. When we installed the 13.5 PS one, is when we found out it had come with a 15K unit (sticker inside unit stated it was a 15K). The 15K unit was used for a few times one summer, the 13.5 has been used for the past 3 years. We camp in fairly non-really hot locations (MN, MT, WY, SD, NY, etc). It works fine for that, and I don’t like a really cool “house” anyway. But I can say, if we ever camped in FL or any other hot place, I would REALLY want the 15K unit back. It did put out more cold air and more efficiently, I think. And worked just fine on a 30 amp plug.
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:25 PM   #3
chuckster57
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I changed out my 13.K AC for a 15K unit last year...30A service and it was the best thing I've done.
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:28 PM   #4
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The 15K unit will probably work on a 30A system, if the wiring to the AC is rated for the amount the 15K unit draws. On the trailer we are purchasing, the 15K unit is an option and the trailer remains a 30A system.
One issue I see is that the 15K unit will draw more power when operating, so you will have less available to run other 120V equipment than you did when running the 13.5K unit. The Keystone website has a video on the power management and they use pennies as an analogy. In the video they say how much the AC draws and how much the converter etc draw.
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingAroundRV View Post
The 15K unit will probably work on a 30A system, if the wiring to the AC is rated for the amount the 15K unit draws. On the trailer we are purchasing, the 15K unit is an option and the trailer remains a 30A system.
One issue I see is that the 15K unit will draw more power when operating, so you will have less available to run other 120V equipment than you did when running the 13.5K unit. The Keystone website has a video on the power management and they use pennies as an analogy. In the video they say how much the AC draws and how much the converter etc draw.
A good argument for a quality EMS, with remote display. I know how many amps I am drawing at any given time.
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Old 03-09-2018, 03:46 PM   #6
texas-traveler
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was replacing my old 13.5k unit with a 15k.(another brand rv) the amp draw was significantly lower on the new 15k. ran at 13amps after start compared to the older unit at 17 amps. was checking amp readings with a dork brand ac amp meter w/ ferrite sensor and comparing with fluke ammeter.
removed the new unit before trade in of other brand.
Note FYI: repeating ac breaker trips can be caused by weak / over heating breaker
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Old 03-09-2018, 08:38 PM   #7
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Check the start amp draw on the old and new 15. My neighbor in a Florida CG did and found them similar. Some of the back in sites there have shade and the 13.5 will work well if you deploy shades and awning. In the summer Florida sun even one 15 will work hard. Almost none of the pull through sites there have shade there. Let them know early you prefer a shaded site. That will help you and those that want none for their tv. I use Direct TV so no shade is preferable but I have two 15 and one 13.5 AC units.


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Old 03-20-2018, 01:50 PM   #8
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Most of the well known parts sellers list start up and running amps. The modern 15K btu isn't significantly more power hungry than a 13.5 and may well draw less than the old unit. I suggest you get up on the roof after disconnecting the AC and remove the shroud up on the roof. You will find the electric motor that runs the fan has a small condensor. Make sure the condensor doesn't continue to hold a charge by placing a screwdriver with a non-conductive grip across the two lugs on the condensor to ensure you won't get shocked. Once you are sure the condensor isn't holding a charge and is safe to work with, remove the two wires and take the condensor out and replace it. They should be very inexpensive if you go off the specs on the condensor and match them (eBay is good for this). If you buy an OEM, it will cost more, of course. Install the new condensor it is likely the compressor will kick on again when it should. Lube the bearings for the motor (small amount of grease) and clean the cooling fins which will help performance. RV shops sells stuff you just spray in and it melts off the goo. You can also use a small compressor to blow things out. If you use water, it will go through and you will find a puddle on the coach floor... (don't ask how I know this). Anyway, I just service my 2002 Dometic Duo-Therm and it ain't a big deal. A/C blows a lot colder now! wg
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Old 03-20-2018, 02:44 PM   #9
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Man, how can you beat advice like this^^^^^! Ol' George has got it all under control. Certainly worth a try!
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Old 03-25-2018, 09:40 AM   #10
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Thanks to all. I did get up top and discharged the capacitor after first trying to start the unit. The fan ran but the compressor just kind of groaned. No cool air. Looks like it seized. Checked the capacitor with a multi-meter and it was/is good. So it is online to order a new 15K Btuh A/C unit. One thing I need to know is do I need a new thermostat and control box along with the A/C or will my older analog still work, bit that another $150.00 is going to matter.

Again, thanks to everyone!!
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