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Old 06-28-2016, 03:43 PM   #1
Dave in Fl
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Do I really need a load distributing hitch?

I am looking at a 2017 212LHS trailer that weighs 4600 lbs dry. My primary tow vehicle is my Chevy 2500HD crew cab, it is 4wd and has the factory towing suspension. I run E rated tires but 60 psi. The salesman suggested installing a load distributing hitch which will also control sway. This is my first RV, and I was always under the assumption that the load distributing hitch leveled out the truck and trailer - something I don't see being a problem with my combo.

That being said, sway from cross wind may be a whole 'nuther animal I would rather not deal with.

Any experience or advice is welcome...
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Old 06-28-2016, 05:17 PM   #2
GaryWT
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I tow with a 350 and use a wdh with sway. Works great. The other thing the hitch helps with is the hitch receiver/payload as some are limited to 500 pounds if no wdh is used.
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Old 06-28-2016, 05:45 PM   #3
SADLY
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WDH has nothing to do with truck capabilities.

It has everything to do with how much hitch weight is on just the rear bolts holding the hitch to the truck frame VS how much weight is on the rear-most bolts AND the front-most bolts holding the hitch to the truck frame.

With WDH, the load is equalized.
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Old 06-29-2016, 04:06 PM   #4
Dave in Fl
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I went ahead and bit the bullet and picked up a WDH at the local RV supply - half the price of CW, although they included installation in their price... I'm more of a diy guy. Should pick up the TT saturday if I don't have to work.
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Old 06-29-2016, 05:55 PM   #5
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Good move. Although it may not seem necessary with your truck, it is. It's actually a law in some states that they must be used on trailers with GVWR over certain weights, I believe OH is one that requires it over 5k. Keep in mind the tongue weight capacity of your WDH is much less if you do not use the bars. Also, the rating on the bars is based on how much weight they have the ability to transfer, it's not a load rating.
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Old 06-30-2016, 03:50 AM   #6
SADLY
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Originally Posted by bsmith0404 View Post
Good move. Although it may not seem necessary with your truck, it is. It's actually a law in some states that they must be used on trailers with GVWR over certain weights, I believe OH is one that requires it over 5k. Keep in mind the tongue weight capacity of your WDH is much less if you do not use the bars. Also, the rating on the bars is based on how much weight they have the ability to transfer, it's not a load rating.
I've never heard this. Do you have a link?
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Old 06-30-2016, 02:26 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by SADLY View Post
WDH has nothing to do with truck capabilities.

It has everything to do with how much hitch weight is on just the rear bolts holding the hitch to the truck frame VS how much weight is on the rear-most bolts AND the front-most bolts holding the hitch to the truck frame.

With WDH, the load is equalized.


If that were true, the front bolts would have problems, because in order for weight to be pushed back on the front axle, the hitch is being rolled/curled forward. If you look at your drawbar, it is being lifted in the back. The front of the hitch is being pulled down and the rear of the hitch is being lifted. The front hitch bolts are taking all the weight (actually, more so). The front of the hitch is pulling down and the rear of the hitch is pushing up. This is with WD of course.

The WD does equalize things, but it has nothing to do with saving the rear hitch bolts. It has to do with leveling out the TV and its suspension.

There is A LOT of stressors going on in a hitch. I'm amazed they fare as well as they do.


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Old 06-30-2016, 03:10 PM   #8
sourdough
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You made the right choice. Installation shouldn't be too bad; just getting it set up right.
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Old 06-30-2016, 05:30 PM   #9
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Dave in Fl, Howdy;

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Fl View Post
I went ahead and bit the bullet and picked up a WDH at the local RV supply - half the price of CW, although they included installation in their price... I'm more of a diy guy. Should pick up the TT saturday if I don't have to work.
When you go to pick up the trailer have the dealership set-up the hitch for your trailer.
Get them to do it BEFORE you sign the paperwork... Should save you any or most of
the headache.
It's what I'd do...

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Old 06-30-2016, 06:44 PM   #10
Ken / Claudia
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Use heavy duty bolts. I think they are called grade 8? I mounted a receiver once and it is not hard but, used standard bolts and found when towing the hitch did slide/tilt forward until a talked to a old time RVer who said the need for grade 8?. And it never moved again.
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:54 PM   #11
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I've never heard this. Do you have a link?
I guess it's for commercial. Here is a link with some other information based on lawyer speak. This again addresses a lot of commercial use, but based on the information provided I can see it being used in courts for personal use as well.

http://www.hardworkingtrucks.com/tow...-still-needed/
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:57 AM   #12
Tesoro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Fl View Post
I am looking at a 2017 212LHS trailer that weighs 4600 lbs dry. My primary tow vehicle is my Chevy 2500HD crew cab, it is 4wd and has the factory towing suspension. I run E rated tires but 60 psi. The salesman suggested installing a load distributing hitch which will also control sway. This is my first RV, and I was always under the assumption that the load distributing hitch leveled out the truck and trailer - something I don't see being a problem with my combo.

That being said, sway from cross wind may be a whole 'nuther animal I would rather not deal with.

Any experience or advice is welcome...


I hope you put one on and have it adjusted right!! My recent experience story:

I have a 2006 Dodge diesel 4x4 Prob have 15000 bucks in suspension upgrades and braced front axle blah blah. sits on 37in 10 ply e rated mud terrains. its a heavy duty 4x4 and only sits 4in higher than a stock truck on 32in tires as it has fiberglass wide fender flares. Anyhow I decided I wanted to go back to a camp trailer and found a used 5500lb empty cougar 21 about 300 miles from home. All I had on my truck was a drop hitch that extended 10 in down and 6 in back from my custom rear bumper. I pull my 5000lb boat with this setup no prob so I figured my truck could handle the camper trailer 'good enough' to get home. Wrong. Now I knew/know about wd hitch physics but opted to scud run home down I5 with just ball and chain hookup. It takes a few hrs to install and set up a wd hitch right and wanted to do this at home and not in the sellers hot driveway.

Let me tell you that was a mistake. That was the most dangerous drive I have ever done and I have done some crazy stuff. The trailer put just enough leverage on my front end to lose most steering and traction amongst other probs. I got into one uncontrollable fish tail nightmare situation at 62 mph in middle lane between a semi and car than nearly wiped me out. Wife about had a coronary as she didnt have the steering wheel to hang onto. Needless to say I limped home after that being the slowest driver on I5 as there were no country roads to take as an option.

I had no idea that the physics would do that to a heavy duty rig with just 4 in higher and 6 inches longer leverage than normal. I was able to pump up my airbags to reduce the front lift but then that put the trailer way out of level so there was no quick fix.

As soon as I got home I ordered a combo wd and sway equ-a-lizer hitch as supposed to be the cats miaow. After installing I was able to get my truck exactly back to pre load level when hooked up and the trailer was only 1/4in off level from front to back. pretty much dead on. I used my airbags a bit to bring up the rear an inch due to the tongue weight.

The handling difference was like night and day! The truck felt like it had an even weight pushed down on all 4 tires and the trailer felt like it was part of the truck. I test drove on the freeway with 25 mph winds and no issues or sway that didnt immediately self correct.

One word of advice...If you have a dealer install then before you take away do the necessary before and after measurements to make sure the dealer went the extra bit to tweak the hitch to perfect match for your setup.

moral of the story is if you dont have the correct weight distribution then you cannot properly control sway. Just imagine towing a trailer while you are doing a wheelie..thats pretty much whats going on and the trailer is shoving your rear end around but there is no front tire traction to keep 'er straight!
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