Propane switch-over problem -- maybe?

[Jerryb1973]

Situation: 2010 276RLS, propane valve switch pointing to right side tank, furnace on over night, woke up cold ---furnace had stopped heating. Turned on one stovetop burner for breakfast, flame was sputtering and after about 5 minutes burner was black with "soot". Apparently the auto valve didn't switch over to left hand tank. I manually turned switch valve to left-hand tank which cut off all propane flow -- stovetop went out. Unhooked both tanks, replaced right hand tank with left hand tank and switched valve back to right hand tank. Burner lit without sputtering -- and furnace started without problem. Note: When I switched the tanks from side to side, I noticed that the right hand tank that I thought might be empty was "frosted" (a coat of thin ice) from bottom to mid tank height and, based on how heavy it was, was NOT empty. When replacing and switching tanks and changing valve position I am careful to open valves slowly, so I dont think I am shutting down the regulators. Does anyone have some thoughts on this situation?

Overnight temp. was 28 degrees F.

In advance, Thank You!

[jje1960]

I had problem last year (think I posted it) with switching over. Long story short, $100.00 later (including the service tech charge) I'm back in business. It ended up being the main regulator on the passenger side.

[hankaye]

Jerryb1973, Howdy;

MERRY CHRISTMAS!
Some times it can be the pigtails, the parts that connect
the tanks to the regulator, never hurts to have a spare
around anyway.
There have been several discussions about these kinds of
problems and below is one of them and it has the precise
steps to properly crack open the tanks see entry #4.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...propane+switch

Hope this solves the problem.

hankaye

[Jerryb1973]

Originally Posted by hankaye

Jerryb1973, Howdy;

MERRY CHRISTMAS!
Some times it can be the pigtails, the parts that connect
the tanks to the regulator, never hurts to have a spare
around anyway.
There have been several discussions about these kinds of
problems and below is one of them and it has the precise
steps to properly crack open the tanks see entry #4.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...propane+switch

Hope this solves the problem.

hankaye

Thanks for the info. Two things though:
1. Why was the tank frosty?
2. My red regulator has a tag that says 18psi. Is that the proper psi?

[hankaye]

Jerryb1973, Howdy;

Don't know how to explain the frost covered tank, might take
a stroll through Google, Bing or one of the search engines.

YES, those remote regulators reduce the tank's pressure (about
80 to 100 psi), to a working pressure that can be safely handled
by the black iron pipe that connects to the regulator. It moves the
gas at a pressure that will be workable for the 2 stage regulator on
the curbside of the trailer.
When I had my 125 gal. tank installed the tech. removed mine as
there was one on the tank that was being installed and mine wasn't
necessary.

hank