What are these?

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by flybouy

In your pic the CONV is converter not convenience, the GEN is the non-gfi recepticals.

Well, that explains why one breaker has two labels.

The irony is that I explicitly asked Keystone this back in 2018, they gave me the same answer, and I entirely forgot it.

So RES12 is probably both your non-GFI outlets and the converter. Easy enough to check -- turn on all the 12V lights until your converter fan starts whining, then flip it.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by LHaven

MIC would be the dedicated microwave socket. I'm assuming that RES12 has to be your non-GFI power outlets, as there has to be a breaker for those and that's the only one left. (Do you happen to have 12 non-GFI outlets?)


Oh alright, I should have realized that, but I wasn't aware microwaves have dedicated circuit. Makes sense though do to the wattage. I would have to count the lights, but off the top of my head, it would be right around there. I can picture 5 fixtures with 2 lights, and then the bathroom and the range hood light. But also have 2 small exterior lights, one for steps an one for tongue.


I know flybouy says you should have a separate breaker for your converter, but my rig doesn't have one either (image -- on mine, the outlets are labeled CONV for convenience). If I want to disable the converter, I have to flip the main breaker which shuts off that along with everything else. At least I assume it does, I've never depended on it, I've just unplugged shore power since it's more foolproof and produces the same result.

I am now curious if you flip the CONV, would the converter shut off??? Either way, mine still doesn't have that.

Originally Posted by flybouy

I'm guessing it's the RES is the breaker but the only way to confirm that is to remove the panel cover and trace out the wiring and test with a meter. If you aren't comfortable with working on 120 vac then I'd suggest seeking the help of a qualified tech.

Yea, I would have to hire a pro, as I am no sparky. My luck, I would mess something up. Would the converter over time charge a depleted battery, or does it slowly just keep juice in it? I check the tongue battery yesterday and I got a reading of 0V (Zero Volts). Shes been sitting without shore power for a while. I don;t have a battery charger, but will have to get one soon.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by LHaven

Well, that explains why one breaker has two labels.

The irony is that I explicitly asked Keystone this back in 2018, they gave me the same answer, and I entirely forgot it.

So RES12 is probably both your non-GFI outlets and the converter. Easy enough to check -- turn on all the 12V lights until your converter fan starts whining, then flip it.

Thanks and I will take a look when I get home.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by derowe82

I would have to count the lights, but off the top of my head, it would be right around there. I can picture 5 fixtures with 2 lights, and then the bathroom and the range hood light. But also have 2 small exterior lights, one for steps an one for tongue.

No, the lights are all 12 V DC, which runs off the fuse side. The breaker side runs the 120 VAC wall outlets.

Obviously the 12 on your breaker stands for 12 V converter, so don't bother trying to count the outlets, that was a bad tip. I'm not sure how you get RES out of non-GFI outlets, nevertheless, I'm almost positive that that's what the breaker is, given that mine is the same combination.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by LHaven

No, the lights are all 12 V DC, which runs off the fuse side. The breaker side runs the 120 VAC wall outlets.

Obviously the 12 on your breaker stands for 12 V converter, so don't bother trying to count the outlets, that was a bad tip. I'm not sure how you get RES out of non-GFI outlets, nevertheless, I'm almost positive that that's what the breaker is, given that mine is the same combination.

Oh, lol. Got ya. Yea I will take a look this weekend, but may get a battery charger prior to then and charge the battery. That way I can run the slide out again without messing anything up. By charging it and trying it, I will know if I have the right switch on. Last time I ran the slide out, I use my vehicle as I didn't have the adapter for the 120V for my house yet. Which makes sense why the slide had no trouble running out with the battery.


Thanks for the help all. I appreciate it. Learning new stuff daily this rv.

[Texas Steve]

Originally Posted by derowe82

I am now curious if you flip the CONV, would the converter shut off??? Either way, mine still doesn't have that.





Yea, I would have to hire a pro, as I am no sparky. My luck, I would mess something up. Would the converter over time charge a depleted battery, or does it slowly just keep juice in it? I check the tongue battery yesterday and I got a reading of 0V (Zero Volts). Shes been sitting without shore power for a while. I don;t have a battery charger, but will have to get one soon.

Chances are that if your battery reads zero (0) volts it is toast. You can take it out and bring it to an auto parts store that will usually load test it for free. If you need to buy a replacement, make sure to get a true deep cycle battery. Good luck.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by Texas Steve

Chances are that if your battery reads zero (0) volts it is toast. You can take it out and bring it to an auto parts store that will usually load test it for free. If you need to buy a replacement, make sure to get a true deep cycle battery. Good luck.

I was kinda thinking the same. Any recomendations on a good battery? Currently has a Duracell Marine & RV battery on it. Has a 600CCA, but I am guessing that doesn't matter since not "Cranking" anything.


Thanks

[Texas Steve]

Originally Posted by derowe82

I was kinda thinking the same. Any recomendations on a good battery? Currently has a Duracell Marine & RV battery on it. Has a 600CCA, but I am guessing that doesn't matter since not "Cranking" anything.


Thanks

I have (2) Group 24 Interstate which works great for us. We stay in full hook-up campgrounds most of the time.

[flybouy]

Any combination starting/deep cycle is not a true deep cycle battery. I agree that the battery is damaged if it's fully discharged. To answer your last question the converter/charger typically charges in 3 stages. First is a "bulk" charge which is the highest voltage that replenishes the bulk of the energy that was discharged. Then the second stage is a bit lower voltage and the last stage is a maintenance or "trickle" charge.

Before you replace the battery either install a battery disconnect switch in the ground cable of the battery or remove the battery cable from the battery when the camper isn't in use. Parasitic electrical current from the radio memory, LP leak detector, TV antenna booster if left on, etc. will discharge the battery over a few days to a week. No sense in destroying a new battery. Depending on how you use your camper will determine if you need a true deep cycle battery or not.

You can plug the camper in at home by using a simple 30 Amp to 15 Amp adapter. Buy a "dog bone" adapter vs the cheap self contained one the looks like a hockey puck. With the camper plugged in you can have the battery charging and use the fridge on 120 vac but DO NOT run the air conditioner or microwave on a 15 Amp outlet. Do yourself a favor and get a simple volt meter and teach yourself how to use it, there are plenty of YouTube videos out there.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by Texas Steve

I have (2) Group 24 Interstate which works great for us. We stay in full hook-up campgrounds most of the time.

Not a bad idea to have 2 batteries but not too sure if two is needed in my case, but thanks for the name of the batteries.

Originally Posted by flybouy

Any combination starting/deep cycle is not a true deep cycle battery. I agree that the battery is damaged if it's fully discharged. To answer your last question the converter/charger typically charges in 3 stages. First is a "bulk" charge which is the highest voltage that replenishes the bulk of the energy that was discharged. Then the second stage is a bit lower voltage and the last stage is a maintenance or "trickle" charge.

Before you replace the battery either install a battery disconnect switch in the ground cable of the battery or remove the battery cable from the battery when the camper isn't in use. Parasitic electrical current from the radio memory, LP leak detector, TV antenna booster if left on, etc. will discharge the battery over a few days to a week. No sense in destroying a new battery. Depending on how you use your camper will determine if you need a true deep cycle battery or not.

You can plug the camper in at home by using a simple 30 Amp to 15 Amp adapter. Buy a "dog bone" adapter vs the cheap self contained one the looks like a hockey puck. With the camper plugged in you can have the battery charging and use the fridge on 120 vac but DO NOT run the air conditioner or microwave on a 15 Amp outlet. Do yourself a favor and get a simple volt meter and teach yourself how to use it, there are plenty of YouTube videos out there.

Thanks! Good to know about the charge stages. I will look into a disconnect as well. You mention get the dog bone style(I did buy the puck one). Why is the dog bone style better? Guessing your talking this style(https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Dogbone...2043375&sr=8-5)


I have heard not to use the AC and microwave on the 15A shore power. I have a volt meter(how I checked the battery). Thanks for the info. You all have helped alot already.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by derowe82

Not a bad idea to have 2 batteries but not too sure if two is needed in my case, but thanks for the name of the batteries.





Thanks! Good to know about the charge stages. I will look into a disconnect as well. You mention get the dog bone style(I did buy the puck one). Why is the dog bone style better? Guessing your talking this style(https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Dogbone...2043375&sr=8-5)


I have heard not to use the AC and microwave on the 15A shore power. I have a volt meter(how I checked the battery). Thanks for the info. You all have helped alot already.

Yes that's the dog bone style adapter that you referenced from Amazon. The hockey puck style are notorious for causing issues with overheating the contacts. They can create a lot of leverage on the 15 Amp male plug causing it to partially pull out of the receptical.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Yes that's the dog bone style adapter that you referenced from Amazon. The hockey puck style are notorious for causing issues with overheating the contacts. They can create a lot of leverage on the 15 Amp male plug causing it to partially pull out of the receptical.

Awesome, thanks. I will get one today. Appreciate it

[cenders]

Originally Posted by derowe82

Obviously AC is Air Conditioning and WHeater is for water heater. The only 30A is the Main, so would it just be that?
Attachment 41435

The black switches on the left are AC (110v) breakers. On the right are 12v fuses.

Your slide motor runs on 12v, off the battery. The battery is charged via the AC to DC converter. All of your AC breakers should be switched to on position, unless I've missed some part of the conversation.

If the slide won't operate, maybe your battery is dead (and not holding a charge).

Flip the main breaker on, give it a day to charge. OR, use jumper cables to hook your vehicle battery to the trailer battery and run the slide immediately.

[philbtv]

Chuckster57,
Could one of these battery circuit breakers being bad explain why my solar panel doesn't seem to be actually charging my batteries? The solar controller says it is sending power to the battery but the batteries don't appear to be recieving it. How do I test one of those breakers with a volt meter?
Thanks!

[chuckster57]

with the meter set to Volts DC, the black (negative lead of the meter goes to a known good ground and the red (positive lead of the meter) goes to each pole of the circuit breaker.

Odds are the solar leads go directly to the battery(s) and may have an inline fuse on the positive lead. I would be looking for that fuse first.