Receiver slop....

[wegone]

I have really never taken note before of how much slop is ok in the receiver after I push the ball- shank assembly in.

I have equalizer that I purchased with the trailer and installed on truck.

I noticed the other day when hooking it up some play in all directions.

Unlike my boat, which is lighter, smaller ball, but I use the same receiver.

It's not much play, but how much is ok, and should be looking for anything that might spell future trouble?

I did notice while reading info on the manufacturers site to remove spring bars before backing up any slope where the truck and trailer angle might put extra pressure on it....which, I have never done since I've owned it, and its a hill I back up while turning at the same time, not the easiest place to back into....

Thanks all.

[dutchmensport]

Too much "slop" happens when the banging of the shaft in the receiver becomes too annoying for YOU, when the tow vehicle is overcoming inertia (starting or stopping), or when hitting hard bounces. Only you can determine when enough of the banging is enough. Functionally, it doesn't hurt anything.

Wiggle up and down is not so bad as the shaft is rocking up and down like a teeter totter. But if the pin hole in the receiver and the shaft has slop and it moves forward and backward, in time the hole in the receiver will begin to wear, making the hole even bigger, allowing even more wiggle room (forward and backward).

My truck receiver has the larger receiver size. It has the insert for the standard receiver. The insert has wiggle room, and the hitch shaft has wiggle room inside that. It took a while to finally just accept the fact the hitch was banging sometimes (especially hard transitions on bridges on interstates). In time, I noticed the holes in the receiver wearing, but they were worn to the point, the insert cannot be removed any more. It doesn't matter if it never comes out, I have no hitches to fit the larger receiver size, and I'm now towing a fifth wheel. I do still have a utility trailer I use often, but it is so light weight, the hitch affect is nill.

They do make some insert (spacers) you can insert in the receiver to tighten them down. I've never used one or wanted to mess with it. Here's what I'm referring to: Something like this, click here.

[wegone]

Thanks for the reply, appreciated.

I moved the truck up on the grass to clean her up, got gadzillion of bugs on the front grill one evening a few weeks ago driving along the Madison River in Montana one evening.... they are baked on now. Having to use the pressure washer to loosen them up

Before I got things all wet I got down on my knees and gave the receiver a good looking over.
Everything looks fine to my eyes, no bent or tweaked parts/supports, minimal rust, welding seams show no outer decay or any issues I can discern.

My spring bars mount at the hitch by pushing them up, into a hole with clip, they are round, bend to a 90 degree, then flatten out and lay on top of the brackets with L clips holding them in place.

All that looks good, not much wear at all, pushing well over 5k travel on them.

I inserted my boat hitch, I was mistaken, it has more slop than my travel trailer one (10k rated).

I think I am good.....

[markcee]

I have the same sloppy problem....some up/down and some side to side. I towed the trailer home from the storage lot today (3 mile drive) with just the Equal-i-Zer hitch head - no bars - and heard a couple of good clunks when turning, so mine is definitely hitch slop and not the normal Equal-i-Zer pops and groans. I don't see any unusual wear either, but I would like a more snug fit. I did try one of those clamps, but for some reason it never stayed tight.

I am thinking of experimenting with affixing some thin metal shim stock to two opposing sides of the shank, to tighten things up. I would like to temporarily attach it to test fit. Once I find the right fit, do you guys think JB Weld would work to permanently attach?

[wegone]

I think I will just stay with mine as is....
The reason why is this, I have had to put my foot on the trailer-hitch connection when trying to unhitch at campgrounds and even my gravel driveway where its parked and add some movement to get it to let go, with it all the way open....
I push on it with my foot, introducing another force, as I have had the trailer tongue lift my truck rear up pretty high until it POPPED loose.
It seems if the truck and trailer are not on pretty much the same level and plane, it just wants to hang on, and this extra movement seems to help.

[sourdough]

Watch the hole in the receiver for the hitch pin, make sure it's not wallowing out. I've had a hitch pin that was made with the "bend" in it enlarge the hole due to the "slop". I use a hitch clamp for various things and started using it just before I got rid of my bumper pull. Made things MUCH tighter;

https://www.amazon.com/Hitch-Clamp-T...%2C301&sr=8-24

[dutchmensport]

Originally Posted by Island Eddie

....
I moved the truck up on the grass to clean her up, got gadzillion of bugs on the front grill ... they are baked on now. Having to use the pressure washer to loosen them up

....

A little off topic, but .... if you spray those bugs with WD-40, let it sit for a few minutes, spray a bit on a paper towel and then wipe with the paper towel, those bugs will come off. WD-40 will not hurt the wax or paint or rubber or plastic parts on your vehicle. I use WD-40 to remove bugs and road tar spots. It also shines chrome up really nice and keep all the rubber and plastic (especially black) looking really good.

It's just a suggestion, but it does work.

I suppose you could also spray those bugs with WD-40, let it sit a short while, then use the power washer. I think that would work too, except the bugs will melt off much easier with the power washer then.