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Old 05-13-2020, 12:26 PM   #1
Nimitz
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Sway Bar Installation

Hey all you campers and campettes. Installing a Reese sway control bar and have no idea how tight to make the bolts on the ball plate that goes on the tongue. The instructions say, “24in, mark holes, drill holes, Mount plate with screws.” No torque associated. How tight can I make them before they strip? Any intel would be great.
Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2020, 12:50 PM   #2
flybouy
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Hard to tell what you have without a model number. I've had very good experiences with Reese responding to and answering questions. Their website is full of info as well. https://www.reeseprod.com/
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Old 05-13-2020, 02:13 PM   #3
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I think you're talking about the holes you drill in your A-frame to mount the plates that hold the Reese "friction sway" bar ???

If so, Reese can't provide a torque applicable to that hole. It depends entirely on the thickness of the A-frame metal. If it's 1/8" thick, it would not support as much torque on the screws as it would if it your A-frame was 5/16" thick. So, you'll need to go to a "machinist's manual" to determine the torque based on the thickness of the material, the diameter of the screw shank and the type of threads (self tapping vs machined threads, etc)…

You won't find a "one torque fits all" answer for your question. It depends on what you're mounting the screws through, screw size and screw type.

If it were me and if I could access both sides of the mounting plate on the A-frame, I'd install it with grade 8 bolts, lock washers and nylock nuts.
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Old 05-13-2020, 02:26 PM   #4
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Thanks for the link. It’s sway bar #83660 but checking the site now. Cheers
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Old 05-13-2020, 02:28 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info
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Old 05-13-2020, 02:32 PM   #6
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If I were to bet I'd say that if you've pre-drilled the holes to the manufacturers specifications then used normal rachet & sockets, not a 1" drive air impact, then as tight as you can get them without any torque extension (aka cheater) then they are probably tight enough, basically strong arm tight, otherwise in my opinion the manufacturer would have specified something more. Not everything needs to have a specified torque to be tight enough.
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Old 05-13-2020, 05:22 PM   #7
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I drill an 11/32” hole, then using a 20V Dewalt impact driver set on #2, I tighten the screw until it just starts to get “tight”. You want the plate flat against the frame and then about 1/8 turn.
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Old 05-23-2021, 08:02 PM   #8
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I am thankful for the "search" function on the forum and the OP by "Nimitz"

I purchased a used 22KBSWE about a year ago. I had a Husky WDH installed by the dealership. I am towing it with an F150 4x4 Supercab long box.

I had it out on a few trips last season and, outside of struggling on the expected long cliimbs, I didn't have any difficulty with sway and the rig seemed to ride pretty good.

But before I head out this year I am planning on installing a friction style sway bar. And, I was hoping install it myself.

Thanks for sharing the information.
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Old 05-24-2021, 04:03 AM   #9
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Those friction style sway controls don't work the best, you would be better off looking into something like the Equalizer hitch.
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Old 05-24-2021, 04:20 AM   #10
flybouy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GordKey22 View Post
I am thankful for the "search" function on the forum and the OP by "Nimitz"

I purchased a used 22KBSWE about a year ago. I had a Husky WDH installed by the dealership. I am towing it with an F150 4x4 Supercab long box.

I had it out on a few trips last season and, outside of struggling on the expected long cliimbs, I didn't have any difficulty with sway and the rig seemed to ride pretty good.

But before I head out this year I am planning on installing a friction style sway bar. And, I was hoping install it myself.

Thanks for sharing the information.
What hitch are you using? With a 28' 6,500 lb gvw trailer the hitch weight will be 700-800 lbs. I know a good wdh with sway control is expensive but a vital investment IMHO. In my experiences the friction sway control works well with a pop up but not so effective on a long sail behind a light truck.
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Old 05-24-2021, 05:31 AM   #11
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I just installed mine. Used impact gun set on #2, Then finished it with ratchet. THEY WILL STRIP from research I found so I was careful. I check them after every trip so far. (2)! I have a very light trailer 590# tongue weight. So I just went with the sway bar. Works great!
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Old 05-24-2021, 01:04 PM   #12
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Before upgrading to the Equalizer E4 a few weeks ago, I had 2 HF sway bars and the HF WDH. When I installed the sway bars, I threw away the self-tapping bolts that came from HF and bought the same dimension from Fastenal. I then used red thread locker. We used the sway bars for a year and about a dozen camping trips with no problems. When I tried to remove them, I originally tried with my regular drill and almost broke my wrist. It required my hammer drill and/or wrench to remove them, so I'd say they were still going strong. I used the hammer drill to install them.
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