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07-17-2017, 08:42 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: West St. Paul
Posts: 12
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electric storm
Had a storm go through when not at the trailer. Go to the trailer on the weekend to find the A/C, furnace running simultaneously. Thermostat display is blank so I think replacing the thermostat will fix the problem. Replace thermostat to get an E1 displayed after 5 minutes second thermostat goes dead. Have 12 volts at the thermostat. At a loss, any suggestions?
Thanks
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07-17-2017, 09:37 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Downey, Ca.
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazapo
Have 12 volts at the thermostat.
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Can you be more specific. Is that in coming voltage only your referring to ? Have you disconnected the out going 12v signal to the ac unit and heater to see if the thermostat is operating as it should be with a test lamp or multimeter ?
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07-18-2017, 01:12 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,344
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electric storm
E1 is loss of communication:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ght=Thermostat
With the storm that passed by its possible your control board took a hit. It's in the A/C return duct.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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07-18-2017, 04:13 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Near Saratoga Springs,
Posts: 1,131
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A-h-h-h-h the real reason for a surge protection device - thunderstorms
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07-18-2017, 04:46 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,344
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Lots of reasons for EMS, thunderstorms is just one item on the list. I was lucky for many years but now have a hard wired with remote display.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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07-18-2017, 06:09 AM
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#6
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Highland, IL
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave W
A-h-h-h-h the real reason for a surge protection device - thunderstorms
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Although a great reason for one, I would put shade-tree campground-electricians at the top of my list.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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07-18-2017, 07:35 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: West St. Paul
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny's Journey
Can you be more specific. Is that in coming voltage only your referring to ? Have you disconnected the out going 12v signal to the ac unit and heater to see if the thermostat is operating as it should be with a test lamp or multimeter ?
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Measured 12 volts at both red/blue and 12 volts orange/blue. Does that help?
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07-18-2017, 08:50 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Near Saratoga Springs,
Posts: 1,131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outback 325BH
Although a great reason for one, I would put shade-tree campground-electricians at the top of my list.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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That's a good second reason for a surge protector as it will protect you from those idiots too - as well as high and low voltage line service problems.
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07-18-2017, 08:56 AM
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#9
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Highland, IL
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave W
That's a good second reason for a surge protector as it will protect you from those idiots too - as well as high and low voltage line service problems.
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Yeah. Low-voltage is what I have encountered the most.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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07-18-2017, 09:26 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,909
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Getting back to the original question, it would help to know what the rig is, year and model, what model thermostat, and also what air conditioner too. We had an experience several years ago after a storm went through where we lost the operation of one of our air conditioners that was running at the time. In this case, the thermostat had a display, but could not communicate with the unit. It turned out to be severe corrosion on the circuit board in the control box below the air conditioner in the return duct. Replaced the box with the circuit board and everything was back to normal.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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07-18-2017, 01:01 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: West St. Paul
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbecky
Getting back to the original question, it would help to know what the rig is, year and model, what model thermostat, and also what air conditioner too. We had an experience several years ago after a storm went through where we lost the operation of one of our air conditioners that was running at the time. In this case, the thermostat had a display, but could not communicate with the unit. It turned out to be severe corrosion on the circuit board in the control box below the air conditioner in the return duct. Replaced the box with the circuit board and everything was back to normal.
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Trailer is a 2011 keystone passport ultra lite ltd edition. Thermostat is a single zone dometic. AC is a dometic as well.
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07-18-2017, 05:27 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Downey, Ca.
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazapo
Measured 12 volts at both red/blue and 12 volts orange/blue. Does that help?
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The other members are touching on something of more concern. That being a possible power surge that took out your board. What I asked will only verify if thermostat is functioning as it should be and you'd need to know how to understand this...... https://www.google.com/search?q=Dome...ZROoYj-5WM3qM:
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07-19-2017, 01:28 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: West St. Paul
Posts: 12
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Hot water tank
Now electric component of hot water tank isn't working. Possibly because of ac? Recently replaced relay and element.
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07-22-2017, 09:14 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: West St. Paul
Posts: 12
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Thanks a bunch, it was the board. Now if I could only get the hot water tank(electric component) working.
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07-22-2017, 09:29 AM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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The only components in the electrical side of the water heater is a switch (inside the RV or on the lower left front corner of the outside compartment) a bit of ROMEX, a circuit breaker, a thermostat/high temp limit switch and the element itself. I'd start with the circuit breaker, make sure you have power there, then verify power at the water heater connections (in the outlet box behind the water heater). If you have power there and pressing the reset switch on the water heater (behind the black rubber plug) doesn't get it working, then disconnect the element (REMOVE POWER BEFORE TOUCHING ANYTHING !!!) and measure the resistance. It should read 14.5 - 17 Ohms. If it reads anything greater than that, replace the heating element. Remove it, go to Lowe's or HD and you can find a replacement for about $15. DO NOT BUY A 220 VAC REPLACEMENT, THE ELEMENT IS 115VAC).
That should get you working. If not, then you'll need to let us know and we can give you other suggestions.
It sounds like your trailer was either "struck by lightening" or suffered a power surge/brownout that caused multiple problems. You may find that more "stuff" is busted as you proceed.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-22-2017, 03:21 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,909
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One more part that could fail, at least on some rigs, is the 12 volt DC to 120 volt AC relay at the water heater, that is controlled by a 12 volt switch inside the coach, that activates the 120 volt circuit to the thermostat and then to the element. The little black switch at the lower left corner on the outside of the water heater is also a common fail point.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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07-22-2017, 04:38 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: West St. Paul
Posts: 12
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Thanks for the advice. Power at breaker ok, power at water heater ok, measured element 10.8 ohms. No power after relay. Switch? How can I check it?
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07-22-2017, 10:16 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,909
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If you are saying you have power to the relay but not after it, you probably have a bad relay. On ours, the 12 volt to 120 volt relay is inside a metal box that on our rig is only accessible by pulling out the water heater maybe 6 inches. The black switch only has the hot leg in and out of it, and is after the relay, but can be checked, with power off, by just prying the switch out and the connectors are spade type to the switch terminals. I am familiar with all this because I replaced our water heater last year due to a cracked tank. The Romex from the breaker terminates inside the relay box and is controlled by the 12 volt switch inside our trailer. I think there are trailers wired without a relay, and you have only the breaker and the little black switch on the outside. Those units will not have a relay. All this is about the Suburban water heaters.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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08-02-2017, 10:02 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: West St. Paul
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbecky
If you are saying you have power to the relay but not after it, you probably have a bad relay. On ours, the 12 volt to 120 volt relay is inside a metal box that on our rig is only accessible by pulling out the water heater maybe 6 inches. The black switch only has the hot leg in and out of it, and is after the relay, but can be checked, with power off, by just prying the switch out and the connectors are spade type to the switch terminals. I am familiar with all this because I replaced our water heater last year due to a cracked tank. The Romex from the breaker terminates inside the relay box and is controlled by the 12 volt switch inside our trailer. I think there are trailers wired without a relay, and you have only the breaker and the little black switch on the outside. Those units will not have a relay. All this is about the Suburban water heaters.
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Still fighting with this water heater. Measuring nothing on yellow wire to relay at relay. When I unplug 6 wire plug at control board, I measure 12 volts at yellow terminal. When I plug 6 wire plug back in measure 0 at yellow wire. Wire has good continuity . I'm lost, any ideas?
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