Underbelly Replacement

[Bob Landry]

I've had to cut into the coroplast under my Outback a couple of times to do repair/upgrades. I've always replaced the screws and washers when reinstalling it, but had to seal pieces where I cut access holes and pretty large access holes using Gorilla Tape. Well, the tape is not holding so I'm looking at replacing the entire underbelly with a solid sheet of material. Just wondering if anyone has done this, is it an easy DIY and I need a source for the stuff. I did find a place online that sells it by the foot for $4/ft plus shipping. Is that a good price? I can only guess what my dealer sells the stuff for since they price everything 20-40% over list. Plus, I'm not about to pay their outrageous labor to put it in. I think their average repair time is 2 months.
Any suggestions, tricks, tips, etc from you guys who have done this. It doesn't really look like rocket science.

[chuckster57]

Get some of this:
https://www.rvautoparts.com/Surface-...FQsoaQod1K8P8g

It sticks a whole lot better than gorilla tape. Link is for pic of product, not necessarily that retailer. I use it on a semi regular basis and have yet to see a repair come back for tape failure.

[gkainz]

I seem to recall someone posting that they bought it direct from Keystone, and Keystone shipped it to their dealer inside a trailer they were delivering ... on the other hand, I can't remember if I had lunch today, so take my post with a grain or two of salt ...

[Bob Landry]

Keystone doesn't sell to owners. Everything has to go through a dealer and I refuse to buy anything from my dealer that is not an emergency. I had a toilet water valve fail on a trip and had to get one from my dealer to make the week. I found one online for a third of what they charged me. That's not going to happen again. I now carry every spare part that could ruin a weekend if it failed.

[chuckster57]

Underbelly (coroplast) comes in wide rolls and it isn't cheap to ship. At the factory, it's my understanding that the frame is upside down so it's easy to lay it down and secure it. I can attest to,the difficulty of trying to put it on from underneath, even just dropping about 1/2 of it.

I would try using the scrim tape first.

[SummitPond]

Chuckster is correct ^^^ - the frame is upside down. We took a tour in May; when I get my pictures in order I'll post a little of what we saw.

[sourdough]

I had my entire underbelly replaced at the dealership due to minor damage and Geico said just replace it all. I was skeptical and worried, staying involved (micromanage) through the entire process. They did a good job, BUT, they told me then that it was hard to get a "factory" looking job trying to do it from below. They did an excellent job given the chore but I still have a tiny bit more sag than when it was new and when they cut some of the holes for protrusions (drains) they weren't 100% centered and I can see a little bit of an angle on the fresh water drain. They did seal it all very well and it has not posed a problem since. I am a very critical person but ours came out OK. I'm not sure what kind of success an individual, by himself, would have trying to make it look good.

[Sulphur1]

I've had mine down to install air conditioner, extra tank supports & Aussie wiring. Held it up using large tradie containers & wood scraps while I replaced original Tek bolts. Not as good as ex factory but ok.

[notanlines]

Go with what Chuckster recommended. We got a piece of this from a neighbor to repair our fabric shelter over the bike and it actually did stick better than Gorilla tape, and the site he listed is the cheapest we could find.

[Rumtan]

Sign shops also carry corrugated plastic sheets, you may want to call one and see if they have something that would work.