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05-25-2016, 04:59 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 92
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rusty hot water heater anode thread
So we have a 5 year old keystone with a suburban water heater and it's very rusty around the screw-in section where you replace the anode. Our trailer is seasonal so is used all summer and then drained for the winter. We have replaced the anode each year. Last year the replacement (a Camco product that said it was for suburban) didn't seem to screw in far enough so maybe it was leaking a tiny bit over the summer. I did check to make sure there were no visible leaks. That anode did not deteriorate as much as others in the past so we didn't buy a new one and now when we opened the trailer and tried to replace that anode it wouldn't screw in at all. I had saved an old one that is more corroded and it was possible to screw that one in--it had noticeably less to screw in actually so now I'm wondering if the Camco was not a proper fit. Now I'm ordering an actual Suburban part but i wondered if there's a way to clean up the rust around that area. Can I use a product for rust removal? Steel wool even? When you're dealing with the potable water system I'm concerned about doing anything that might get back into the drinking water.
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05-25-2016, 05:25 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
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I use a dental pick together with a rust removal agent (applied to the threads with a toothbrush) to clean and remove the rust in the threads. Let the solution sit for a while then "pick away".
I've found that some anodes screw in farther than others.
Are you wrapping the anode threads with white pipe wrap? If not, I'd suggest that you do. It helps make a better seal and makes it easier to insert and remove the anode.
__________________
2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
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05-25-2016, 06:21 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,317
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We use Rectors #5, its a yellow paste that doesn't harden and makes anode rod removal a bit easier. As Festus stated, I've found that not all anode rods screw in the same depth.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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05-25-2016, 07:47 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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I use a 3/4 copper fitting brush to clean the female and male threads for the element. A little vegetable oil helps break down the rust and is non toxic ..... as mentioned use Teflon tape or pipe dope to get a good seal and easy removal. 4 in 1 fitting brush from Home store
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Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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05-26-2016, 08:29 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Okanagan, BC
Posts: 916
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Curious about the tape/dope comments. Doesn't that insulate the anode electrically from the rest of the tank, defeating it's purpose?
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2010 Cougar 30RKS
2015 GMC Sierra Max Trailer
"Drinks for 6, Dinner for 4, Sleeps 2"
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05-26-2016, 09:21 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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The anode is sacrificed through the water not the electrical or metal to metal connection. Same as on fiberglass and wooden boats to protect shafts and props.
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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05-26-2016, 12:27 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,907
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If the threads are really bad, a 3/4 inch pipe tap will clean up the threads, just don't turn it in too far, just enough to get clean threads. The Suburban manual says to use Teflon tape on the threads.
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Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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05-26-2016, 02:09 PM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMcKenzie
Curious about the tape/dope comments. Doesn't that insulate the anode electrically from the rest of the tank, defeating it's purpose?
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If you've ever looked closely at the Teflon tape on the threads when removing the anode, you'll see that the threads "cut" through the tape and make contact. The Teflon tape doesn't "completely isolate" the anode electrically, there's some metal to metal contact through the Teflon. Its main purpose is to help prevent leaks and to help the threads "not corrode together" and "slide" against each other on removal.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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05-29-2016, 05:06 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 92
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Thank you so much everyone. I like the idea of the 4-in-1-brush and using a rust removal agent. Thanks hankpage for the link to the 4-in-1 brush. I do use teflon tape and we haven't had trouble removing the anode. I was concerned however that the last one we bought didn't screw in all the way so it's very good to know that this is okay. I think I'll try using CLR to remove the rust, since that's supposed to be safe for coffee pots, etc.. It's also good to know that other people get the rust!
Thanks again,
parkgirl
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