landing jacks and slides no longer work with switch, but remote works

Cougar2010 · 04-03-2013, 03:09 PM

As the title says.

In October we used our 2010 322QBS and everything worked perfectly, as it has since we bought it in July of 2009. I closed her up, brought the slides in and raised the jacks and we took it home to unload for the year( about 15 miles away).

When we got home I hooked her up to shore power and tried to lower the jacks with the switch and......... nothing. I made sure all the connections were good and tried again.... nothing. I then went and tried the slide switches.... nothing.

I then went to the remote and whallah everything worked. So we unloaded and I winterized the fiver and put her away.

Fast forward to this past weekend. I have replaced the remote battery that was original, and the main fiver battery. I checked the ground at the battery, and the fuse off the remote CPU headed to the landing jacks, both were good. All fuses at the main fuse and breaker panel are good as well.

I then checked all the switches and they all have 12.5 volts to them, and 12.5 volts coming out of them when the rocker switched is pressed. I then checked all the motors and when the switch is pressed, I have 12.5 volts at the motors.. Now I am scratching my head.

The remote still works everything.

Now on the same switch panel inside the door are the ceiling lights and porch lights which all still work.

The one anomoly that I have found is this: The docking lights no longer work with the switch OR the remote. I checked the wiring and there are 12.5 volts at the sockets when the switch is used, but neither bulb lights up. I took the bulbs out and they both have all the filaments intact, but I am going to go buy some new ones and put them in just to be sure.

Frustrated in KC...

SteveC7010 · 04-03-2013, 03:50 PM

Very common problem. Lots of folks have had the same issue and it's been well covered here in a number of threads. Short answer is you've got a blown fuse for the landing gear.

Here's some links to get you started with the details:

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...t=remote+works

And a search on landing gear fuse yields these results:

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sea...earchid=736992

**JRTJH** · 04-03-2013, 03:53 PM

You have at least two 12VDC circuit breakers wired to the hot lead from the battery bank. After checking the plug in fuse in the pink wire, check those breakers. They are small metal canisters with two electrical connections on them. They are probably capped with a red rubber or vinyl cap. My guess would be that one (or both) of them may have some corrosion on the inner contacts. When you raised your jacks last fall, you may have overloaded the contacts, the circuit breaker opened and because of the corrosion, failed to close after it cooled down, thus, it wouldn't work when you got home. Over the winter, the spring inside the CB finally pushed the contacts together and it works again. Double check those two circuit breakers, or better yet, just replace them, they cost about $4 each. I'm betting if you have a repeat performance of your problem, if you troubleshoot those CB's first, you'll find them to be your problem.

Cougar2010 · 04-03-2013, 06:34 PM

Okay, I should have also mentioned that the switches still do not work.

Steve, I have already checked the fuse for the landing gear and it is good. I have 12 volts all the way to the LG switch and 12 Volts coming out of the switch to the motor and 12 Volts at the motor when the switch is depressed. The motor does not run.

As soon as I use the remote.. the motor runs perfectly.

JRTJH, I am planning on replacing those two little breakers next. Hopefully it works.

I sure do wish the manufacturer's provided wiring diagrams like every other manufacturer in the world.

Does anyone know if there are fuses located behind the walls in the basement?

**JRTJH** · 04-03-2013, 07:36 PM

By asking the location of the "fuses behind the walls" if you are asking the location of the circuit breakers I talked about, go to the black line coming off the positive terminal of the batteries, the circuit breaker will connect directly to that heavy gage wire.

A number of people have indicated that their remote control will work in any condition but that their manual switches will only work if the remote control is turned on. (or is it off) LOL Anyway, if the circuit breakers don't resolve the problem, you might try resetting your remote control and starting from scratch.

I think the "modern technology" may take some of the "sweat" out of RVing, but at times like you're having, I am so glad I've got simple switch activated landing gear, manual stabilizer jacks and a manual awning. But, I'm sure glad I'm not pulling it with a team of horses ROFLM*O

SteveC7010 · 04-04-2013, 05:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cougar2010

Okay, I should have also mentioned that the switches still do not work.

Steve, I have already checked the fuse for the landing gear and it is good. I have 12 volts all the way to the LG switch and 12 Volts coming out of the switch to the motor and 12 Volts at the motor when the switch is depressed. The motor does not run.

As soon as I use the remote.. the motor runs perfectly.

JRTJH, I am planning on replacing those two little breakers next. Hopefully it works.

I sure do wish the manufacturer's provided wiring diagrams like every other manufacturer in the world.

Does anyone know if there are fuses located behind the walls in the basement?

If you have 12vdc all the way to the motor, then trace and verify your grounds as well. (That's a bit of a long shot, but it's an easy rule-out.)

The only hidden fuse on Keystones that I am aware of is the standard inline one or two on the back of the radio, but that's standard with aftermarket electronics every where. All the 12vdc fuses and circuit breakers should be right in the front compartment where all the 12vdc wiring is clustered around the remote unit.

Oops, that reminds me, check all the connections on that remote panel. There are a whole bunch of ins and outs on that and a loose or missing connection could produce the same symptoms. This is a drawing of one of their panels. Yours should be similar.

davidcyndi · 04-04-2013, 05:36 AM

Steve, what do you not know??? You are a wealth of info and a asset to the community.

SteveC7010 · 04-04-2013, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidcyndi

Steve, what do you not know??? You are a wealth of info and a asset to the community.

You are way too kind, but thank you. I do have my limits on this RV stuff, but so many of the problems that are reported in the forum are the same that have plagued RV owners for the last several decades. I'm just lucky enough to have been around when others discussed them.

mecfd67 · 04-04-2013, 06:54 AM

Wow cant wait to see the issues I will have with this panel in my 2012 322QBS. I have read so many issues where the panel stops working and the remote does that it is frightening. Think the quality control would of been better . And the panel tested prior to release.

SteveC7010 · 04-04-2013, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mecfd67

Wow cant wait to see the issues I will have with this panel in my 2012 322QBS. I have read so many issues where the panel stops working and the remote does that it is frightening. Think the quality control would of been better . And the panel tested prior to release.

I've only heard of one of these panels actually going south. Every other issue around the remote system has been blown fuses, loose wiring, etc. The remote itself is prone to damage or the batteries need to be replaced.

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