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Old 01-04-2022, 03:11 PM   #1
FF/PM
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Outlet problem 283RETWE

The one and only outlet in the kitchen has stopped working. It did this morning, then I had to replace the switch in my water heater. That went well and is working fine. Now there is no power to the outlet in the kitchen. No idea if it's related or a coincidence. Every other outlet is working (including GFCI). This outlet ends at the box, so there is no downstream. I am not very electrically knowledgeable, but I am handy. I appreciate troubleshooting ideas!
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Old 01-04-2022, 08:01 PM   #2
chuckster57
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If that outlet is at the end of a run, I wonder if the Romex came loose. RV outlets use outlets that have blades that “cut” the insulation and make contact. I’ve seen my share of outlets that one or more conductors has backed out of the blades. You can try using an adjustable pliers to re crimp the outlet. If that doesn’t work, unplug from shore power and take it apart.
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Old 01-05-2022, 06:21 AM   #3
flybouy
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Originally Posted by FF/PM View Post
The one and only outlet in the kitchen has stopped working. It did this morning, then I had to replace the switch in my water heater. That went well and is working fine. Now there is no power to the outlet in the kitchen. No idea if it's related or a coincidence. Every other outlet is working (including GFCI). This outlet ends at the box, so there is no downstream. I am not very electrically knowledgeable, but I am handy. I appreciate troubleshooting ideas!
Let's start with the bolded sentance above. Define " not very". Do you know which wires are black, white, bare copper are the line, nuteral,and ground? Do you have and know how to use a multimeter or ac voltage tester?

These questions aren't despairing in any way but just looking for a minimum knowledge. IMHO "on the job Google training" can be vary dangerous with concern to 120v ac and rv’s don't have conventional outlets that you will fing in a home. First off if you are not confident in electrical work call a professional. If you try your hand at plumbing and make a mistake you get wet. With electricity you could start a fire or die.

With that said, turn off the electric before you begin. If you are not absolutely certian which breaker controls that outlet then turn the main breaker off. Kitchen outlets are often mounted horizontal under a cabinet which cam make access challenging. Remove the cover and pull the outlet out. You will see the romex shoved into V shaped copper. They are not great connections.

After you have it opened up inspect for physical damage. If this romex passes by the water heater you may have pulled it inadvertently. You didn’t say what switch you changed for the water heater or where it's located so it's unclear. If there's no obvious physical defect then restore power and get your meter ready. With the meter set to ac voltage above 120 vac CAREFULLY check the wire connections.

The black wire is the line voltage abv is L1, the white wire is the nuetral abv as N, and the bare wire is the ground abv is G. You should have voltage present when the meter is connected to L1 and N OR L1 and G. If no voltage is present between either test then the power is not getting to the wire via L1. If one of those 2 tests work then you have those two conductors carrying voltage. Follow the romex back until you find out where the next connection is until you find out where the break is.

Hope this helps. I'm on my tablet so I don’t have a pic of what the inside of these outlets look like but I’m sure someone will post some pics if they haven't already done so while I typed this.
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Old 01-08-2022, 09:02 PM   #4
FF/PM
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Hi! Sorry for the delay, I work 48 hour shifts... No offense taken. I know black white and ground, and a passing familiarity with a multi meter. I get the AC and DC voltages and resistance. Not sure on the rest of the settings.

I followed the romex back as far as I could. Took out the microwave but couldn't see the wires. I also checked the water heater area and couldn't see anything amiss. All the wiring there was in a junction box. Finally, I replaced the GFI outlet in the bathroom... Although 110 was going through it, the prongs felt loose and it doesn't like hair dryers. Everything seems to be working, except the kitchen outlet. Every bit of wire I could find and expose was inspected. All the breakers seem to be working. I reinstalled the kitchen outlet, and even with no box attached, no 110 to the wiring, with or without the receptacle box.
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Old 01-09-2022, 04:04 AM   #5
flybouy
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Hi! Sorry for the delay, I work 48 hour shifts... No offense taken. I know black white and ground, and a passing familiarity with a multi meter. I get the AC and DC voltages and resistance. Not sure on the rest of the settings.

I followed the romex back as far as I could. Took out the microwave but couldn't see the wires. I also checked the water heater area and couldn't see anything amiss. All the wiring there was in a junction box. Finally, I replaced the GFI outlet in the bathroom... Although 110 was going through it, the prongs felt loose and it doesn't like hair dryers. Everything seems to be working, except the kitchen outlet. Every bit of wire I could find and expose was inspected. All the breakers seem to be working. I reinstalled the kitchen outlet, and even with no box attached, no 110 to the wiring, with or without the receptacle box.
No problem. If the romex is dead then the next step is to make certian you have cycled every breaker. Firmly turn each breaker off then back on. They can trip but still look ok. If that doesn’t resolve it then remove the front cover of the power distribution (breaker box). Turn off all the electricity first, i.e. turn off the breaker at the pedestal and unplug the shore cable.. Remove the panel and set it aside out of the way.
Check every connection to each breaker, ie make sure they are pushed in fully and check each screw on the breakers than hold the line (black) wires. Check the screws holding down each white wire to the neutral buss bar and do the same with the bare copper grounds.

Restore power and with your meter on volts and place the common test lead on the large white white wire feeding the neutral bus and the other test lead on the scew holding the large black wire. The meter should read ~120v ac. Then with the common still on the white wire check each screw on the breakers one at a time. If you don’t get a reaading on one of the breakers you have a failed breeaker. If they all test ok then theres a break in the romex between the breaker and the outlet.

Perform these tests and report back your findings. Look very well for another GFI as folks have found them inside cabinets or otherwise hidden from plain sight. Also a GFI will only reset if power is applied to the line side, ie the breaker is supplying electricity to the GFI outlet.
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