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Old 08-06-2020, 10:37 AM   #41
larryflew
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In my experience with 3 blow outs over the years is that insurance never covers the tire but for me they covered all damage including a major slide damage of several thousand dollars.
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Old 08-06-2020, 10:39 AM   #42
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There should be a counter for all the people who have had their campers damaged by the manufacturers terrible choice in tires? My next trailer will not have them that is for sure! Burn me once shame on you burn me twice shame on me!
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Old 08-06-2020, 11:42 AM   #43
Tireman9
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There should be a counter for all the people who have had their campers damaged by the manufacturers terrible choice in tires? My next trailer will not have them that is for sure! Burn me once shame on you burn me twice shame on me!



OK and what about the 57% that have a tire or axle in overload when put on a set of scales? This is based on over 10,000 sets of RV weights collected by RVSEF.
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Old 08-06-2020, 01:42 PM   #44
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Overloaded OK, but there is no comparison to the crappy tires that came on my camper to the good tires I now run. It is not hard to see that people are constantly raising awareness around the same set of crumby tire! I put way more in my camper now than I ever did in the first year I owned it. I didn't have a 1000 lb motorcycle in the garage when those crappy tires turned loose in less than a year and a half of ownership. You will never convince thousands of people who have bought good tires to replace the bad ones that their trailer came with, especially after their trailer was damaged or just threw a big wrench in their vacation plans. Even after all the bad news they read about them we all pushed our luck thinking the will last, and guess what. Here we are still complaining about those crappy tires. I just completed a hell of a trip and in our group we had two triple axial trailer toy haulers loaded to the gills. Rode from Texas all the way thru Colorado and on up to Idaho, into Yellowstone. Would you attempt that with your trailer on those tire? If you say yes, than all I can say is good luck! Cause your gonna need it. And when you need to find a tire place I recommend Goodyear endurance! They will get you home, provided you don't run over curbs and such during the process. But everyone isbilentitledbtobhisbor her opinion, some people just have to learn the hard way no matter what testimonies have been provided.
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Old 08-06-2020, 02:36 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Mongoose9400 View Post
We were heading home from Gulf Shores, AL to Texas Today and I blew a tire on the highway at 65-70 mph.

Anyone have an idea why this blew based on the pictures of the aftermath? Maybe someone can help tell what the failure mode was by how it looks?

Also, what’s the best route to getting it repaired? Insurance claim? Extended Warranty? Something Other?

I did triage repairs on the side of the road to get going. I didn’t want to wait all day for roadside, although we called into insurance roadside just in case I couldn’t get her done.
Glad you and trailer are safe .
The best advice for any RV owner is to buy the best trailer tires one can afford and maintain them .
Proper cold tire temp per trailer sidewalls and check tire pressure often .
Big fan of Goodyear American made trailer tire .
Keep tires covered from UV rays while in storage .
Check sidewalls for cracking and dry rot . (Often )
Purchase higher ply tire and tire rated to handle your total trailer GVW .
The big mistake is getting a false sense of security because of less use than passenger vehicles the tread often looks good but the sidewalls get fatigued from poor maintenance , Poor quality, road hazards , heat ,and Total weight .
No trailer tire is bulletproof but proper maintenance, tire pressures checks and staying away from low quality bargain tires
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Old 08-06-2020, 02:54 PM   #46
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If I had another trailer I would ensure I had at least 20% reserve load based on actual scale measurements. Till 2017 RVIA only required tires be capable of supporting the GAWR with theoretical perfect 50/50 load split. a 0% Reserve Load < Not reasonable IMO
in 2017 RVIA bumped the tire load capacity to be 110% of GAWR. Still assuming perfect load split. < Better but still not realistic.
Most cars come with tires that have 125% to 135% of GAWR and most cars are within a couple % of 50/50 load split side to side while many RV trailers are closer to 45/55 split when fully loaded.
RV mfg didn't get the extra 10% by providing bigger tires they just de-rated the numbers on the sticker and we all know that 90% of RV salesmen have no clue about realistic tire loading.


The other problem is that when people have a tire problem they do not bother to file a claim with NHTSA but instead just complain around the campfire or on an RV forum.
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Old 08-06-2020, 03:46 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Mongoose9400 View Post
Tire itself says max cold PSI is 100 PSI along with the tire label sticker on the trailer.

Where is the best place to look for replacement tires? I’m not finding a lot of good options for 235/80r16 on places like discount.com, tirerack.com, etc.

I see more tire options listed for 235/85r16? Could I run these?
I have changed from ST235/80R16 to LT235/85R16. The 85's are taller, meaning larger around, which reduced the clearance between tires and in the wheel well. Something to consider if you do make that change. ST is the trailer service tire. LT is the light truck tire. Other forums have discussions on the pluses and minuses of ST vs. LT.
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Old 08-06-2020, 03:54 PM   #48
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I am now noticing that the new RV come with Nitrogen in the tires..
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Old 08-06-2020, 04:08 PM   #49
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I am now noticing that the new RV come with Nitrogen in the tires..
ALL trailer tires come with 78% nitrogen in the tires. In fact, that's the air you breathe.... Some people suggest that 100% nitrogen does not increase operating PSI as much as air, they suggest that the tires run cooler and since nitrogen is a "larger molecule" the tires don't "bleed down" (lose pressure) as rapidly...

The problem is "finding a nitrogen station" if you're at home or at a campground, check your tires prior to towing and find one or more that need to be filled.... If you use air, you contaminate your 100% nitrogen, if you tow with "low pressure, you risk damaging your tires... So, even though it "might be a bit better" it is difficult to maintain tires with nitrogen in them, simply because of the logistics involved.

Plus, if you use a TPMS, you can't "sport those pretty green valve stem caps" because you have to remove them to install the TPMS sensors.... <awww, shucks>...

Now, if your trailer was being towed at 200 MPH or being used at an altitude of 30K feet, nitrogen might have a particularly useful application... At, 65-70 MPH and sea level to 8 or 9K feet ??? Not so much .....

I'd suspect that some new trailers "have nitrogen as OEM" because it's an easy way to "one up the competition" without spending a lot of money....
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Old 08-06-2020, 04:28 PM   #50
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More and more places have nitrogen. Like car dealers, our 2017 chevy came with Nitrogen and now has 73,000 miles and never had to add any to them. Just saying...
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Old 08-06-2020, 04:36 PM   #51
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Hard to find but worth it

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Old 08-06-2020, 04:48 PM   #52
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More and more places have nitrogen. Like car dealers, our 2017 chevy came with Nitrogen and now has 73,000 miles and never had to add any to them. Just saying...

You've got a 3 year old vehicle with 73k miles and you've never added one lb. of air....anywhere, for anything? That's quite the success story. I've had multiple vehicles that came with nitrogen and the green caps. All, every one of them, had to have air added at some point and the supposed nitrogen "advantage" went away...….
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Old 08-06-2020, 04:50 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Mongoose9400 View Post
We were heading home from Gulf Shores, AL to Texas Today and I blew a tire on the highway at 65-70 mph.

Anyone have an idea why this blew based on the pictures of the aftermath? Maybe someone can help tell what the failure mode was by how it looks?

Also, what’s the best route to getting it repaired? Insurance claim? Extended Warranty? Something Other?

I did triage repairs on the side of the road to get going. I didn’t want to wait all day for roadside, although we called into insurance roadside just in case I couldn’t get her done.
Looks like a China Bomb to me. Been there, had that. I had a 2018 Coachman Clipper that blew one tire at only 40mph. Research from the tire code date showed that the tires were from 2015 (On a 2018 Camper!) I always use Goodyear Endurance Tires. Never any issues.
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Old 08-06-2020, 05:59 PM   #54
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Some very good advice to go to G tires in this post. A high quality 14 ply tire is needed. Step up to the price, you will be glad you did. Also change the spare to match. A TPMS System is an easy upgrade for your Trailer. Something that will give you advanced notice when there is a problem. If you don't go to this, at least get quality steel valve stems. It is really not possible to determine the cause of this kind of tire failure. Likely it is from a puncture and low pressure. I don't think insurance covers tire road hazard or this kind of failure, worth checking into. Most important, take your trailer (fully loaded) to a scale and weigh each axle. You will be able to see the real loading for each tire. Check pressure cold with a digital gauge and set it to the maximum stated on the tire. With 100+ degree temps, the stress on the tires gets much higher.
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Old 08-06-2020, 11:19 PM   #55
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I have changed from ST235/80R16 to LT235/85R16. The 85's are taller, meaning larger around, which reduced the clearance between tires and in the wheel well. Something to consider if you do make that change. ST is the trailer service tire. LT is the light truck tire. Other forums have discussions on the pluses and minuses of ST vs. LT.
Once you get past 10 ply I am not aware of a LT tire that will support the weight of a 12 or 14 ply tire. I know some like LT for higher speeds but if the trailer came with F or G tires then LT won’t cut the mustard.
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Old 08-07-2020, 03:55 AM   #56
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Lewis, " I don't think insurance covers tire road hazard or this kind of failure, worth checking into" if this is true, and your insurance won't cover your trailer damage, why would you carry insurance? Maybe I misunderstood what you said.
Geico paid about 9K when my China bombs turned loose AND paid for both tires that blew.
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Old 08-07-2020, 07:21 AM   #57
Tireman9
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Originally Posted by Laredo250RL View Post
I have changed from ST235/80R16 to LT235/85R16. The 85's are taller, meaning larger around, which reduced the clearance between tires and in the wheel well. Something to consider if you do make that change. ST is the trailer service tire. LT is the light truck tire. Other forums have discussions on the pluses and minuses of ST vs. LT.

Important information missing from your post.


Load Range and the stated load Capacity for the two different types of tires.


Many times an ST tire is rated for +10 to +20% greater load capacity as the same physical size LT type tire. Even going to a "taller" size tire might leave you with lower load capacity.


Very interested in learning your numbers.
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Old 08-07-2020, 07:30 AM   #58
Tireman9
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
ALL trailer tires come with 78% nitrogen in the tires. In fact, that's the air you breathe.... Some people suggest that 100% nitrogen does not increase operating PSI as much as air, they suggest that the tires run cooler and since nitrogen is a "larger molecule" the tires don't "bleed down" (lose pressure) as rapidly...

The problem is "finding a nitrogen station" if you're at home or at a campground, check your tires prior to towing and find one or more that need to be filled.... If you use air, you contaminate your 100% nitrogen, if you tow with "low pressure, you risk damaging your tires... So, even though it "might be a bit better" it is difficult to maintain tires with nitrogen in them, simply because of the logistics involved.

Plus, if you use a TPMS, you can't "sport those pretty green valve stem caps" because you have to remove them to install the TPMS sensors.... <awww, shucks>...

Now, if your trailer was being towed at 200 MPH or being used at an altitude of 30K feet, nitrogen might have a particularly useful application... At, 65-70 MPH and sea level to 8 or 9K feet ??? Not so much .....

I'd suspect that some new trailers "have nitrogen as OEM" because it's an easy way to "one up the competition" without spending a lot of money....



Almost.


It isn't the size of the molecule that results in slower loss of inflation gas but the reactivity.


No idea why some feel a lower running pressure is a good thing since lower pressure means worse fuel economy.


Tires are developed and tested using regular air so we tire design engineers expect and count on the pressure increase of a tire which results in less deflection which means cooler running in controlled testing. Know you didn't make the claim so not blaming you for the incorrect info.


Heat in a running tire is generated by the amount of bending the tire structure experiences. Lower inflation => More flexing => greater heat generation in controlled testing.


Sorry for introducing actual Science and facts to this topic.
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Old 08-07-2020, 07:34 AM   #59
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Looks like a China Bomb to me. Been there, had that. I had a 2018 Coachman Clipper that blew one tire at only 40mph. Research from the tire code date showed that the tires were from 2015 (On a 2018 Camper!) I always use Goodyear Endurance Tires. Never any issues.



Sidewall split and the sharp bent rim is evidence of hitting something. When did you last do a "Free Spin" inspection as I cover in my RV Tire Safety blog?
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Old 08-07-2020, 08:09 AM   #60
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Not sure why the tire blew from the photo, however I would suggest looking into replacing all 5 tires with the BOAR Wheels. New rim and tire package. This will give you better mileage out of the tires and peace of mind knowing that you have the very best money can buy for your expensive set up.
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