2011 Outback Odd Electrical Issue

jvink · 08-03-2019, 04:26 PM

I have a 2011 Outback with slides and it is continuously plugged in to 30amp service on a family property. We don’t tow it and the battery stays hooked up for the summer.

Recently, as in the past few weeks, I have had the electric element in the hot water tank go, the electrical element in the Dometic fridge go and the stereo system has turned on in the middle of the night from time to time. I also have a fantastic powered fan in one of the roof vents that has become finicky. As I understand, these are all on the 12v side of things.

3 weeks ago, I had the plugs crap out. The lions gfci plug in the bath wouldn’t test or reset so I replaced it with a new one, no change. Checked breakers, all good, flipped them all just to be sure. Microwave was still working, but no plugs. I disconnected the shore power and flipped the breakers off, then plugged back in and flipped breakers back on and all was working again.

My question is given all the electrical issues recently, is there somewhere I should be looking for a bigger problem? I have checked for signs of animals chewing wires, nothing. Fuses are all good, have never had the 30 amp breaker at the pole trip. We have some wicked lightening storms roll through, no signs our trailer has been affected but we have lost power to the property. I’m tempted to think they are isolated, all things need to be fixed at some point, however I am in need of a second electrical element now for the hot water, it’s not working again. Maybe it’s just the age and the fact that the previous owner did not use it, for over two years, and the replacement parts are not great.

If you are still awake after reading this, anyone have a similar issue, advise where to look? A new circuit board? Some place where the ground wires all come together that should be checked? Any help would be appreciated.

**chuckster57** · 08-03-2019, 06:15 PM

Water heater and fridge elements are 110VAC

Fantastic fan is 12VDC

Outlet is 110VAC

If your trailer stays plugged in, how often is the battery checked? Do you have any kind of surge protection?

I assume the water heater tank has water in it?

jvink · 08-03-2019, 07:05 PM

The trailer stays plugged in from May - September. The battery is on a battery “tender” during October to May but I have not had it tested to see if it’s still holding a charge well. The hot water tank was full both times the element burned out. Thanks for clarifying the source of those appliances.

jvink · 08-03-2019, 07:06 PM

And no surge protection. I assume that would be on the shore plug?

**chuckster57** · 08-03-2019, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jvink

And no surge protection. I assume that would be on the shore plug?

Surge protection,or even better EMS would be an aftermarket device placed between the pedestal and breaker panel. I’m willing to bet your battery(s) are dry as a bone.

jvink · 08-03-2019, 07:23 PM

I will have it tested and will look at a surge protector. Thanks for the advice.

**chuckster57** · 08-03-2019, 07:34 PM

Look at an EMS device. One that protects from surges as well as under/over voltage.

jvink · 08-03-2019, 08:08 PM

Sounds good, I will look at those. Thanks again.

**sourdough** · 08-03-2019, 08:33 PM

Before you go to the trouble of having the batteries tested just pull the caps and look inside. Is the water just below the opening and covering the plates or is it all gone? If you don't see water you've more than likely fried the batteries.

ctbruce · 08-04-2019, 05:31 AM

Use a smart charger for the winter instead of an old fashioned tender. Less chance of over charging the batteries.

German Shepherd Guy · 08-04-2019, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Surge protection,or even better EMS would be an aftermarket device placed between the pedestal and breaker panel. I’m willing to bet your battery(s) are dry as a bone.

That was my first though too. Look to see if the battery(s), are still with water.

Northofu1 · 08-04-2019, 06:36 AM

Use personal protection equipment, battery acid is nasty.

jvink · 08-04-2019, 06:46 AM

Heading back to the trailer Friday, will take a look. The EMS units are either plugs or hardwired. The hard wired ones are the better route?

**chuckster57** · 08-04-2019, 06:54 AM

depends on your situation. mine is hard wired with a remote display. I chose mine as it isn't in view of those that may need a quick "fix". Others have no issues with the portable ones. If your unit sits in a campground with other units you can either leave it on the pedestal and hope for the best, unplug and put it away when your not there or install a hardwired one with remote display and no one will be the wiser.

jvink · 08-12-2019, 05:51 PM

So the battery is a sealed unit. I purchased an intelligent charger rather than just a “tender”. I also ordered an EMS style protector. It’s a private property that we camp on with only family so I went with the plug in style. That will be arriving shortly. I am always plugged into shore power, unless we have a power outage, and that is 30 amp. Theoretically, I don’t even need the battery on the trailer to run?

The fridge electrical element that I replaced last week is doing fine, no more issues. The hot water tank is another story. The switch on the tank is set to off, although it was very hard to push. I then turned off the breaker to the hot water tank and the lights dimmed and the tv (was on coincidentally) turned off. That seemed strange to me. I will be pulling the breaker/fuse panel off tomorrow to see if anything is going on back there. Can’t see anything amiss where the 120v goes into junction box on the tank.

Thanks again, for the advice, any theories in advance of me pulling the breaker panel out would be appreciated.

Jesse

**chuckster57** · 08-12-2019, 05:57 PM

If the water heater switch is the factory original then ON is “OFF” and off is “ON” meaning the switch appears to be upside down. It’s installed that way at the factory.

jvink · 08-12-2019, 06:03 PM

It appears to be original. If that’s the case, it’s hard to turn on. I have left the breakers in the on position due to the effect it has when I turn them off.

jvink · 08-12-2019, 06:04 PM

Other than no back up power, see any issues with disconnecting the battery altogether if the converter will still supply 12v?

**chuckster57** · 08-12-2019, 06:07 PM

Rereading your last post, it is odd that other things would turn off when you turn off the breaker to the water heater. W/H should be on its own breaker, and turning it off shouldn’t have had a dimming affect on the lights. I’ll be curious to hear what you find.

jvink · 08-12-2019, 06:09 PM

Should know by tomorrow, will update then.

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