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Old 02-07-2011, 07:31 AM   #1
DocData757
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Water heater is out

Started last night, I think, but this morning, the water heater will not light. Both tanks have gas. I have gas to the stove (all burners light right way). Standing out by the heater with the cover off, you can hear the ignitor clicking away but there is no gas flow.

I've switched over to the electric option for now until I it stops raining and I can take a look at it.

Any ideas as to what I am looking for?
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:08 AM   #2
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I am not sure since I can not provide diagnostics over the Internet that easily. But it could be a spider problem where a spider has built a web thus causing the unit not to light. Another idea could be the "thermocouple" has failed thus not letting the unit light.

I would suggest that you obtain a copy of this book. RV Repair & Maintenance Manual, 4th edition. See link attached. http://www.rvrepairmanual.com/rv_repair_manuals.html
I have this and another manual in my 5er, which I have used in the past for all sorts of issues.
Jim W.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:53 AM   #3
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Still out. I pulled the metal tube between the LP valve and the burner assembly, ran a fine wire through the orifice, blew everything out and reassembled. It started, ran for a few seconds, shut down and now wont start.

I confirmed that the ignitor is sparking and I have plenty of propane (furnace is running right now).

I'm getting to think this is either a LP valve problem or an electrical problem.

Is there any electrical test I can perform? I have a multi-meter.

BTW, the separate 120v element is working fine.
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:12 AM   #4
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Removed this post. I placed it in the wrong thread. Sorry.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:47 AM   #5
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Talking Frustrated

Good morning Dave
I understand your frustration and the need to get it fix so here's another idea. If your close to a repair facility you might go in and talk to a tech on how to trouble shoot the electrical/gas system instead of packing up and going to them with your unit. If not I would suggest calling a facility and talking to the director of service and see if he or she can direct you to someone that can help you figure it out. Dometic can't just send you a unit because if it is not the problem then you'll even be madder and they will be out the items that they sent you. I always take a deep breath, drink a beer and try to think out side the box. If that doesn't work I just have another beer or two or three.
Just a thought!
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:09 AM   #6
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Attempt to help

Good morning, Dave

I realize we have two different models of Alpine, but my 3640RL has a Suburban 12 gal. water heater. Are you sure that yours is Dometic????

From the PDF manual (2 meg) I requested from Suburban (on their website but they take a week to get back to you), it sounds like you might have to reset the high temperature limit device. That's the two (one 120v, one 12v) covered buttons upper left when you pull the cover. No, I'm not real sure, but it is what the manual says.

If you have a voltmeter, check for voltage across the gas valve terminals to make sure that the module board isn't your problem. And your switch is "On" inside the Alpine, right? (Sorry, had to ask. Might as well punch the Reset there while you have the door open.) If the module board is toast, it's located under a cover at the back of the tank next to the WaterWorks.

I'll check with Flyguy to see if he has this manual on his Website for download.

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Old 02-08-2011, 11:51 AM   #7
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My apologies to everyone. The Dometic post was supposed to be made on a different thread.

Which terminals should I read across (there are 3) and what am I looking for... anything greater than zero?

Yes, the switch is on and the ignitor clicking away for its 3 cycles before it gives up.
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:15 PM   #8
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Re-set

Yeh Ron is right, I forgot about those reset buttons since they are out of sight, might help!
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:53 PM   #9
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Aid

When I get home, I'll post what I can from the manual to help.

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Old 02-08-2011, 06:59 PM   #10
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Diagram

Good evening Dave -

Here is just a jpg capture of the switch diagram.

I mean to say earlier, when I first got my Alpine, I was having problems with both the refrigerator and the hot water tank. I finally figured out it was an "air" problem. There was air in the lines. But the problem is that there is no way to effectively flush the air at the appliances! It basically takes a power down/power on to force the appliance to "de-gas" a little air at a time. If you have a leaky tank connector pigtail, it can introduce air to the system. Flush the line with the stove, then repeatedly turn the HW tank on and off at a few minute intervals. It did work for me.

Ron
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:40 AM   #11
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Thanks Geo.

Don't think its an air-in-the-tubing issue. It was working fine up to 2 nights ago and we have not changed bottles or even switched between bottles during that time. We are putting a manometer on it today to check the pressure through the valve. Then we will read out the voltage to the solenoids to see if it is getting a signal and then the resistance of each one to see if one is burned out.
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:41 AM   #12
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Suburban HW Manual

Dave -

I sent Flyguy a copy of the 2009 Suburban HW heater manual last night for him to post on his website. (2009 is the "latest" (?) manual). I noticed that he has a 2002 manual out there also that has a flowchart of troubleshooting for the heater. You might want to take a second and look at the 2002 and see if he has had time to upload the 2009.

Ron
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:50 PM   #13
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another thing to look at is to pull the cover of your limit switches and physically look at them, you'll notice right away if it's bad as the temp wire will be melted...make sure you have correct voltages to open the gas valve, start at the valve terminals and work your way back to imput voltage, make sure to check all fuses and breakers..
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:30 PM   #14
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Turned out to be an open solenoid coil. Had the correct voltage to the unit and one solenoid read out correctly but the other was bad. A repair guy here in the campground had an old valve from which we removed a good coil. Everything is working fine again.
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