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Old 07-26-2021, 08:15 PM   #1
NATAMES
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Side to side play in truck hitch receiver

Hello all. I have an eaz lift weight distribution hitch. I sold my small TT today. First time towing with my new yukon as I brought the TT to dealer to trade in. I noticed with new truck, the trailer was wagging the dog bad. Small trailer, 20' in total length. I noticed the eaz hitch had an insane amount of play in the left to right side. Scary play in up and down as well. My old 2018 suburban didn't have the play. Anyway to prevent this? Thanks.
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TV- 2021 YUKON XL AT4 5.3 V8 REAR AXLE 3.23 RATIO MAX TOW CAP. 7500LB MAX HITCH WEIGHT 750LB
TT- 19.3 NO BOUNDARIES UVW: 4200LB / HITCH WGT: 550LB
EAZ TOW WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH W/ ANTI SWAY
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Old 07-27-2021, 03:33 AM   #2
BauerAP
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https://www.amazon.com/Tightener-LIB...iver+st&sr=8-3

Used one similar on my approx. 7k enclosed trailer for a while until I broke down and bought a Class V receiver. Works well at eliminating the “clunk” from the slop.
Aggravating if you are using a 3-way and need to change ball sizes every other week though.
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Old 07-27-2021, 05:27 AM   #3
NATAMES
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Thank you
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TV- 2021 YUKON XL AT4 5.3 V8 REAR AXLE 3.23 RATIO MAX TOW CAP. 7500LB MAX HITCH WEIGHT 750LB
TT- 19.3 NO BOUNDARIES UVW: 4200LB / HITCH WGT: 550LB
EAZ TOW WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH W/ ANTI SWAY
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Old 07-27-2021, 06:11 AM   #4
flybouy
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You have listed everything BUT the payload capacity of the SUV and what trailer you're towing. The rest of those numbers really don't matter.
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Old 07-27-2021, 07:59 AM   #5
Northofu1
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Is the Yukon the 3/4 ton version? Maybe it has the 2.5" receiver?
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Old 07-27-2021, 08:02 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northofu1 View Post
Is the Yukon the 3/4 ton version? Maybe it has the 2.5" receiver?
I have the same question. You may need a 2 1/2 inch sleeve.
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Old 07-27-2021, 11:56 AM   #7
sourdough
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Specs I pulled for the Yukon show all models with a 2" receiver. I would think they would be pretty accurate in size. I'm wondering about the wdh shank; I've seen some pretty good variances in different ones over the years.
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Old 07-27-2021, 01:57 PM   #8
NATAMES
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Thanks everyone for the replies. The vehicle is a 2021 Yukon XL AT4. The shank is slightlyrounded off on all 4 sides. It came like that from the manufacturer. Perhaps that is causing Is the extreme play.
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TV- 2021 YUKON XL AT4 5.3 V8 REAR AXLE 3.23 RATIO MAX TOW CAP. 7500LB MAX HITCH WEIGHT 750LB
TT- 19.3 NO BOUNDARIES UVW: 4200LB / HITCH WGT: 550LB
EAZ TOW WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH W/ ANTI SWAY
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Old 07-27-2021, 04:23 PM   #9
sourdough
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If you have a factory 2" receiver, which I'm sure you do, the issue is probably the shank on your hitch. They make bolt on attachments that "clamp" it down and minimize the "slop". I used this one on my bumper pull and now on the extension I had made to support my mud flaps;

https://www.amazon.com/Hitch-Clamp-T...7431762&sr=8-6
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Old 07-27-2021, 04:36 PM   #10
CedarCreekWoody
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These clamps are a great idea. Remember to clamp the shank up, to the top of the receiver, as this is the direction it will move with a WDH. This pulls the shank up and steadier it, removing the slop.
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Old 07-27-2021, 05:53 PM   #11
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Very interesting. This is my first trip since upgrading to a 14K Equalizer and going with a 2.5" Equalizer shank. I previously used a 12K with 2" shank and a reducing sleeve. I notice what I think is much more play in all directions with this setup. Was going to double check with the old hitch and sleeve when I get home to be sure. If so, will give the clamp a go.
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Old 07-27-2021, 05:58 PM   #12
sourdough
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markcee View Post
Very interesting. This is my first trip since upgrading to a 14K Equalizer and going with a 2.5" Equalizer shank. I previously used a 12K with 2" shank and a reducing sleeve. I notice what I think is much more play in all directions with this setup. Was going to double check with the old hitch and sleeve when I get home to be sure. If so, will give the clamp a go.

They make them in 2 and 2 1/2" sizes. The trick is to suck that bottom bolt up hard and make sure it is really tight. I use a ratchet maybe 15" long and ramp on it a bit and it never lets go. Wears a mark on the shank so I know right where to position it every time.
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Old 07-27-2021, 06:20 PM   #13
NATAMES
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Thanks everyone. Hopefully this can shed some idea on the play I'm referring to. The photo is turned sideways and I apologize for not being able to rotate it to show its true orientation. The left side of this picture would be the bottom of my rear bumper. This may not seem like much play, but its quite significant. It's odd, I slide this same shank into the 2" receiver on my 2002 GMC 2500HD and there is literally zero play. Both GM. Just nearly 20 years between their births.
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TV- 2021 YUKON XL AT4 5.3 V8 REAR AXLE 3.23 RATIO MAX TOW CAP. 7500LB MAX HITCH WEIGHT 750LB
TT- 19.3 NO BOUNDARIES UVW: 4200LB / HITCH WGT: 550LB
EAZ TOW WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH W/ ANTI SWAY
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Old 07-28-2021, 11:32 AM   #14
{tpc}
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In my minds eye I am having trouble understanding which way one would clamp the shank, up or down. I guess you want to push the shank towards the top of the receiver? I'm asking because I am interested in this as well. My old truck had less play but it was with a different shank (though thought these things were made the same?). The new truck its obvious because you can see the wear marks on the shank from where its banging around on the receiver a bit.

The real question is, wouldn't using one of this subject a lot of force to the clamp and eventually break it? I can't imagine the clamp being rated as high as the shank or receiver. Or maybe I am overthinking it?
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Old 07-28-2021, 11:55 AM   #15
sourdough
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Quote:
Originally Posted by {tpc} View Post
In my minds eye I am having trouble understanding which way one would clamp the shank, up or down. I guess you want to push the shank towards the top of the receiver? I'm asking because I am interested in this as well. My old truck had less play but it was with a different shank (though thought these things were made the same?). The new truck its obvious because you can see the wear marks on the shank from where its banging around on the receiver a bit.

The real question is, wouldn't using one of this subject a lot of force to the clamp and eventually break it? I can't imagine the clamp being rated as high as the shank or receiver. Or maybe I am overthinking it?

If referring to the clamp I linked to, probably overthinking it. The clamp is very robust and I used mine over thousands and thousands of miles without the slightest issue (except it was tight). Remember the receiver is holding nearly all the weight so that isn't transferred to the clamp. The only thing the clamp does is bite down on the receiver and shank to stop the movement - which it has very well for me. So in a nutshell don't worry about breaking it.
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Old 07-28-2021, 12:27 PM   #16
CedarCreekWoody
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Quote:
Originally Posted by {tpc} View Post
In my minds eye I am having trouble understanding which way one would clamp the shank, up or down. I guess you want to push the shank towards the top of the receiver? I'm asking because I am interested in this as well. My old truck had less play but it was with a different shank (though thought these things were made the same?). The new truck its obvious because you can see the wear marks on the shank from where its banging around on the receiver a bit.

The real question is, wouldn't using one of this subject a lot of force to the clamp and eventually break it? I can't imagine the clamp being rated as high as the shank or receiver. Or maybe I am overthinking it?
I originally clamped down and had trouble with the clamp working loose. After reading here that should clamp up, and studying how the WDH applied force, I switched to clamping up. It held tight after that. My clamp was a different style than sourdough.
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