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Old 10-04-2019, 07:11 AM   #41
7Iron
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ReWire

I rewired my fans and thermostat. On the left end (fwd) of the condenser is the thermostat that turns on the factory installed fans. It is a normally open heat sensing switch, that closes at specific temp (I don't recall what the temp is) and allows power (12v) to go to the fans.

There are two wires, both red, on that thermostat one is always hot when refrig is turned on the second is hot when the switch closes at X degrees.

So I cut both and wired the hot to my new digital/adjustable temp thermostat input and tied the new and factory fans to the output side of the of the thermostat.

Now all 7 fans (3 new 650cfm/140mm and the 4 smaller factory installed) all come on at the same time and go off at the same time. And because the hot comes from the control board , it is only hot when the refrig is on.

We used this setup for 10 days at the end of Sept in southern Alabama, where temp records were broken just about every day....the warmest the refrig got was 40 , but just for a very short time when I had the doors open longer to instal an internal fan. The mode was 31-34...set on 5 with the exterior fan thermostat to turn on at 95 and off at 91.4 (35 and 33 C).

I am not recommending this instal, as it no doubt violates my refrig warranty, and probably my chassis , tires , ac, stove and everything else.

But I am really tickled and my problem has been solved....

thanks to everyone in this thread who provided ideas and solutions.

dg
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Old 10-04-2019, 11:14 AM   #42
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This collaboration lead to real, concrete solutions.

Time for a cold beer ��
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Old 12-20-2019, 09:41 PM   #43
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I have come into this thread late but really glad I did. I'm also having problems with my fridge getting rather warm when the weather is hot. I want to install two fans to the back of my fridge. I am grateful for all of the info you all talked about here. Now my question, is it best to install all the fans at the bottom or top vent?
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Old 12-21-2019, 12:20 AM   #44
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Solutions vary depending on which YouTube video you watch. I mounted mine in the top right inside the vent because I wanted to make sure that the air was directed back out while the air movement would also draw air from the bottom and up through the fins. It seems to have helped mine.
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Old 12-21-2019, 06:34 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff615 View Post
I have come into this thread late but really glad I did. I'm also having problems with my fridge getting rather warm when the weather is hot. I want to install two fans to the back of my fridge. I am grateful for all of the info you all talked about here. Now my question, is it best to install all the fans at the bottom or top vent?
I think installing at the upper vent is easier and give you better results.

There is more space to install, and pulling air from bottom forces the warm air over the condenser. Finally you will not hear them as much, not that they are noisy.

Run the power wire down to connect and you're done. You can either use a little switch on the wire to turn ON or OFF, or install a little thermistor (essentially, a switch that opens or closes the circuit depending on the temperature) like I did, right next to the fans.
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Old 12-21-2019, 10:52 AM   #46
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My single OEM fan was installed between the two openings and it was sooooo loud, I decided to remove it and install two more efficient, and quieter fans where the original single fan was. It was a pain to get to, but works so much better than the original and so much quieter, I have a hard time knowing when they are running.
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Old 12-21-2019, 06:56 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff615 View Post
I have come into this thread late but really glad I did. I'm also having problems with my fridge getting rather warm when the weather is hot. I want to install two fans to the back of my fridge. I am grateful for all of the info you all talked about here. Now my question, is it best to install all the fans at the bottom or top vent?
Fans push much better than they pull
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Old 01-10-2021, 09:19 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoe Lakin View Post
I also needed help ventilating my camper fridge. Before when it reached 90 degrees or higher outside my fridge couldn't keep up.
With no idea what brand, what size, what configuration, where it's installed or what condition it may be in, any help would only be a WAG, not sound advice. You might consider starting your own thread in the REPAIRS/MAINTENANCE section of the forum, give as much information as possible about the above "parts of the puzzle" and you'll likely get better information and recommendations. Right now, based on what you've provided, it could be anything from a "worn out 20 year old antique refrigerator to a fuse in a cooling fan circuit. Help us help you.....
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Old 01-13-2021, 04:07 PM   #49
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Fridge fan

I have a Norcold 2118, (double door 18 cu. ft.), in a slide. I had serious issues with the fridge getting to 40 deg F, (or higher), on a day over 90 deg F. I installed a 4" fan, with a plastic grille, on the upper cover, blowing outwards. I wired it to run constant. The fridge rarely get over 35 deg F. It solved my problem.
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Old 07-24-2021, 10:36 AM   #50
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We have a single door, GE 8cu electric fridge on our 250bhs.
The fridge sits on the slide out.
I found this thread in my search; our fridge fan runs continuously; frost inside. Although it does seem to remain cold. It was more the noise and continuous running that I was investigating.

What is worrying reading this thread is our slide-out has no external vents on it.
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Old 07-24-2021, 11:14 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin J View Post
We have a single door, GE 8cu electric fridge on our 250bhs.
The fridge sits on the slide out.
I found this thread in my search; our fridge fan runs continuously; frost inside. Although it does seem to remain cold. It was more the noise and continuous running that I was investigating.

What is worrying reading this thread is our slide-out has no external vents on it.
This thread is in reference to "gas absorption refrigerator use". That technology requires exterior venting to remove the hot air from around the cooling fins that is caused by the "excess heat from the gas flame or the electric heating element" that creates the "condensing/evaporation" process.

There's no telling what Keystone may have substituted in your trailer based on component shortages/component availability, but the "standard build" in the Bullet 250BHS is a Dometic gas/electric 8 CUFT two door refrigerator and the "optional build" is a GE 12 volt compressor driven 10.8 CUFT two door refrigerator. I'm not sure that GE even builds a 8 CUFT 12 volt single door refrigerator that's intended for RV use.

At any rate, if you do not have exterior venting for the refrigerator, then your refrigerator is NOT a gas absorption system. You have a "DC compressor refrigerator". Battery power drives a compressor that causes the "condensing/evaporation" process. There is no "excess heat from a burner flame" and no need for exterior venting in your refrigerator. It's an entirely different "system technology".
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Old 07-26-2021, 06:56 PM   #52
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Hi John,

Sorry for the delay in responding, away at work.
Thanks for the reply and sharing your extensive knowledge.
You are correct, I do have the GE 12V larger electric-only fridge. I didn't appreciation the difference in fridge types and ventilation.
Fridge works well, and cools quickly but I do worry that it seems to run continuously and can be fairly noisy. I am not sure if anyone else with an electric-only finds that with theirs?

Thanks again.
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