No Water HELP!!!

papagreg · 10-16-2011, 05:46 PM

hey folks,... I have a problem.... I have a 2006 Keystone Hornet 33' I got a leak in my fresh water hose so I put a new white hose in. It seemed ok but then it sounded like I had air in the lines then nothing. If I turn my water pump on I get water from my tank, but as soon as I shut it off and go back to city water, theres nothing. I have water coming out of the hose but it seems like its locked up or something,.... Any ideas as what I should do?.... Thanks ahead of time...

Greg

hankaye · 10-16-2011, 05:58 PM

papagreg, Howdy;

There is a check-valve on the trailer side of the city water inlet. There maybe a blockage of some sort preventing it form allowing the water to pass.

Have you also looked for water dripping where it shouldn't. may have blown the connection apart and water is going ito trailer, just not in the waterlines .... need to check ALL possiabilities.

hankaye

**hankpage** · 10-16-2011, 06:39 PM

As "The Other Hank" said, there is a check valve behind the screen in the city water inlet. Check that for debris. You can remove the screen to clean and after leaving a faucet open GENTLY press the check valve to see if it is stuck... it should move easily if there is no pressure in the lines. If you can get to your water pump area try to see the back of the city inlet and check for a kinked line ... that short section is not PEX and kinks easily. Hope this helps, Hank

I just noticed your from Fl. In some areas the minerals in the water will clog that screen. I get it every year after about a month.

papagreg · 10-16-2011, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hankpage

As "The Other Hank" said, there is a check valve behind the screen in the city water inlet. Check that for debris. You can remove the screen to clean and after leaving a faucet open GENTLY press the check valve to see if it is stuck... it should move easily if there is no pressure in the lines. If you can get to your water pump area try to see the back of the city inlet and check for a kinked line ... that short section is not PEX and kinks easily. Hope this helps, Hank

I just noticed your from Fl. In some areas the minerals in the water will clog that screen. I get it every year after about a month.

Thanks,.... I have a cone shaped screen on the city water inlet. How do you recommend getting that out? Its dark right now and I think it is blocked right there, but I did'nt want to damage the screen... Thanks for your help.

**hankpage** · 10-16-2011, 06:54 PM

For now try rinsing it with the hose. You may get it clean enough to get you though till morning. It is like a hose washer just pry it out.

papagreg · 10-16-2011, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hankpage

For now try rinsing it with the hose. You may get it clean enough to get you though till morning. It is like a hose washer just pry it out.

Ok I went out and got her out. You were right there was a spring and a little whitish button which I pushed.... I knew I had it then I went in and ,..... no water. I am assuming that I need to replace the check valve. Is that do-able? I checked for any water leaking and or any kinks and there are none,.... I can't imagine there is anything past the check valve is there? or could there be another one somewhere?
I really appreciate your help and input

Greg

**JRTJH** · 10-16-2011, 07:41 PM

There shouldn't be anything past the check valve. Are you sure you pushed it in and it sprang back out? If so, then it probably is OK. the purpose of that check valve is to keep water from flowing out of the trailer when you turn on the pump and arent hooked up to city water.

There is a check valve in the pump itself that prevents city water from flowing through the pump and into the water holding tank. Usually though, even if that check valve fails, you have water to the faucets in the trailer, but the water tank fills, possibly overfills and can rupture. If you turn on the city water, no faucets open , do you hear water flowing? If so then that check valve may have failed.

As for changing the check valve, usually it's easier to just change out the entire city water connection. If yours is like most, it's a white plastic circle with a hose connection in the center and the check valve on the inside. Changing it is pretty straightforward, but sealing it to prevent leaks from rain is an issue. If you aren't prepared to do the whole task, best leave it to the dealer. If you're still under warranty, it should be covered...

papagreg · 10-16-2011, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

There shouldn't be anything past the check valve. Are you sure you pushed it in and it sprang back out? If so, then it probably is OK. the purpose of that check valve is to keep water from flowing out of the trailer when you turn on the pump and arent hooked up to city water.

There is a check valve in the pump itself that prevents city water from flowing through the pump and into the water holding tank. Usually though, even if that check valve fails, you have water to the faucets in the trailer, but the water tank fills, possibly overfills and can rupture. If you turn on the city water, no faucets open , do you hear water flowing? If so then that check valve may have failed.

As for changing the check valve, usually it's easier to just change out the entire city water connection. If yours is like most, it's a white plastic circle with a hose connection in the center and the check valve on the inside. Changing it is pretty straightforward, but sealing it to prevent leaks from rain is an issue. If you aren't prepared to do the whole task, best leave it to the dealer. If you're still under warranty, it should be covered...

I did notice that while I was checking everything I disconnected the hose and then went inside. I turned on the pump to get water to my sinks and lav then when I went outside there was water running out of the city water entrance hose bib. I didn't think much of it but it sounds like it probably means that the check valve is shot.... When I pushed the valve in it stayed in. Is it supposed to pop back out?.... I guess I'll have to go get a new one tomorrow and give it a shot at putting it in. If ya can think of anything else I'll appreciate it or any ideas as to what items I'll need to get to give me the best opportunity to git'er done,... I appreciate everything that both you and the other Hank has done,.... Thanks....

Greg

LeeMedic · 10-16-2011, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papagreg

hey folks,... I have a problem.... I have a 2006 Keystone Hornet 33' I got a leak in my fresh water hose so I put a new white hose in. It seemed ok but then it sounded like I had air in the lines then nothing. If I turn my water pump on I get water from my tank, but as soon as I shut it off and go back to city water, theres nothing. I have water coming out of the hose but it seems like its locked up or something,.... Any ideas as what I should do?.... Thanks ahead of time...

Greg

Hey we love camping at Wekiwa State Park.

Sorry about the water problem.

**JRTJH** · 10-16-2011, 08:51 PM

You'll need to get a replacement city water inlet. Look at yours and measure the diameter of the assembly, it should be screwed into the side of your RV with 3 or 4 screws. Also get a tube of non self leveling DICOR and a roll of butyl sealant. When you get the old one off, you'll have to attach the PEX tubing to the new one. Easiest way to do that is to unscrew the PEX hose at the water pump and pull the whole tube and inlet out of the RV, then attach the PEX to the new inlet, put butyl tape on the inside of the flange, (make sure everything is cleaned off the outside of your RV) and then slip the PEX through the hole, go inside, reattach the PEX to the water pump, go back outside, replace the screws and check that there are no leaks, MAKE SURE YOU USE TEFLON TAPE ON ALL CONNECTIONS. If there are no leaks, use the system for a few hours/days to make sure you don't have to take it apart again, then apply the DICOR around the edges of the new inlet to seal it against any rain that might happen to get past the butyl tape. Now is a good time to check all the clearance lights, tail lights, windows and doors. If you have any questions about whether they may leak, since you've got the rest of the tube of DICOR, clean any questionable area and apply more DICOR to those areas.

Good luck, pay close attention to what it looks like as you remove parts and put it back together the same way......

Total cost will probably be around $25 for the entry, $8 for the butyl tape and $8 for the DICOR.....

hankaye · 10-17-2011, 05:59 AM

papagreg, Howdy;

Glad to see you have figured out what the problem and have good solid advise in how to go about the "fix".

JRTJH said; "Good luck, pay close attention to what it looks like as you remove parts and put it back together the same way...... "

If you have a camera ...take a picture of it to refer to... saves alot of head scratchin'...

hankaye (the Other hank)

papagreg · 10-17-2011, 06:31 AM

Perfect,.... you guys are the best. Everything is up and running better than ever. I just took pics of everything I needed with the handy dandy cell phone, got everything I needed and well there ya go,.... guess who will be hangin out on this site from now on?....
Again,.... THANKS,....

Greg

**JRTJH** · 10-17-2011, 06:38 AM

So glad it worked out well for you. There's not much "rocket science" in RV's, but they are somewhat different in construction than houses, so when you tackle a repair job, just pay attention to how things come apart and put them back the same way. Hank said it best when he said, "take a picture" The old addage, A picture is worth a thousand words really holds true with RV's

Now that it's back together, I'd suggest that you not put all the panels back in place for a day or so, just so you can recheck and make sure there's no leaks. A "ever so slight" drip at one of those fittings will destroy the subfloor, luan wallboard or worse in just a matter of months if not stopped !!!!!!

Just check it after a couple of days, then seal things up, no need to be paranoid about it, but be wise and make sure it's not leaking.....

Again, congratulations on the repair, I know you feel satisfied about not having to tow it to a repairman.

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