What could have drained my battery and How do I fix my shore cord?

[rosede]

I have two questions and decided to combine them into a single post.

Last weekend I winterized my camper. One issue that I discovered was that my battery was dead. I have a battery shutoff switch, which was off. The only thing that was connected is my electric tongue jack. I don't know how that could have drained my battery, unless someone came along and switched on the LED lights. But the switch was in the off position, so I don't think that was the case.

The battery is only two years old, so I don't think that it is bad. I suppose that it could be. I guess that I can take it down to the local battery store and have them test it.

Any thoughts on what might have drained it?

I also have an issue with my shore cord. I used my generator during the winterization process. I needed it for the air-compressor and I decided to plug the camper in just because. I had never plugged the camper into this generator, and wanted to try it out a bit.

Anyway, my shore cord laid up next to the muffler and melted. The outer casing melted and one of the wires is exposed. Not a large amount, but enough to were it needs to be fixed. Any suggestions on how to fix it? It needs to be water proof, because you never know when its going to rain during an outing.

Any suggestion on these two issues will be appreciated.

Thanks.

Daryl

[JRTJH]

First, to address the dead battery, there are a number of "parasitic drains" that remain on even with the battery switch in the off position. The CO monitor, LP monitor, stereo backlight all remain on. It only takes a week or so to deplete the charge on most batteries with these drains that we don't even realize are still on.

As for the power cord. I wouldn't trust a "patch job". If the damage is near an end, just cut it off and install a new terminal plug on the affected end. If it's near the middle, I'd buy a new, undamaged power cable and probably use the old, damaged one as a means to build two "extension cords by cutting out the damaged part and replacing the end terminals. I simply don't think it's prudent to "tape over" or "use silicone/liquid electrical coating" as a means to repair a cable that is subject to laying in a puddle, being handled when wet and possibly causing an electrocution. In this situation, I'd say better safe than sorry.

[rosede]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

First, to address the dead battery, there are a number of "parasitic drains" that remain on even with the battery switch in the off position. The CO monitor, LP monitor, stereo backlight all remain on. It only takes a week or so to deplete the charge on most batteries with these drains that we don't even realize are still on.

Oh really? I didn't know those items stayed on, even with the battery switch turned off. Good to know, thank you.

Originally Posted by JRTJH

As for the power cord. I wouldn't trust a "patch job". If the damage is near an end, just cut it off and install a new terminal plug on the affected end. If it's near the middle, I'd buy a new.

I don't remember how close the damage is to the end of the cord, but I'm thinking that it's closer to the middle than it is to the end. I really don't want to replace the cord, but I agree with you, its safer to replace it, than trust a repair. I just didn't know if there was a safe way to patch it without doing the replacement work. Since I won't be using it for a few months, I guess I have some time to figure out how to replace it.

Thanks John. I appreciate the feedback.

[GmaPaTime]

This brings up a follow-on question John pertaining to the battery. If storing a unit that will not be hooked-up to shore power, even for just a week or two, is it advisable then to remove the battery ground wire each time so as to not drain it down?

[BirchyBoy]

Originally Posted by GmaPaTime

This brings up a follow-on question John pertaining to the battery. If storing a unit that will not be hooked-up to shore power, even for just a week or two, is it advisable then to remove the battery ground wire each time so as to not drain it down?

That's what I've been doing to be safe. The safety brakes rely on the 12v power, and a dead or slightly charged battery could be bad.

[chuckster57]

This is where a frame mounted battery cut off would work. I've put a few in, in-line from the positive lead from the battery to the J box or circuit breakers.

[JRTJH]

I remove the batteries (two 6 volt batteries) at the end of the camping season and store them in the garage. I've got boat batteries, ATV/UTV batteries, tractor batteries all of which would discharge and freeze, so I've built a battery station in the corner of my garage. I put them all there and recharge them as needed through the winter.

As for Virginia, you don't have as much sub-zero temperatures as we do, so you'd probably be OK leaving the battery on the RV, removing the negative terminal and just putting a charger on the battery for an afternoon once a month during storage.

It would be convenient to install a second battery cutoff switch (either a terminal switch on the negative terminal or a frame mounted switch that comes from the positive or negative battery terminal) I prefer the negative terminal, others have commented that the positive terminal is "better". Without opening that "bucket of stuff", the objective is to remove power from the battery so it won't discharge, and removing (or switching off) either terminal will protect the battery from discharging.

Here's the way I built a "key operated" cutoff switch in a $5 plastic junction box and a picture of a terminal switch, either of which will "get you fixed up".....

[jtyphoid]

Originally Posted by rosede

I don't remember how close the damage is to the end of the cord, but I'm thinking that it's closer to the middle than it is to the end. I really don't want to replace the cord, but I agree with you, its safer to replace it, than trust a repair. I just didn't know if there was a safe way to patch it without doing the replacement work. Since I won't be using it for a few months, I guess I have some time to figure out how to replace it.

One option would be to cut out the damaged section and put a male connector on the trailer-side cut end and a female on the other cut end. If you're close to the pedestal, you just use the shorter 'original' cord. If not, you add on the 'extension' cord.

I'm not an electrician, but I can't think of any reason why this would be a bad idea.

[BirchyBoy]

Maybe take the opportunity to convert your rig to the removable twist and lock cord that has a connector on the outside wall.

[GmaPaTime]

Thanks John, both battery ideas are great to consider.

[rosede]

Originally Posted by BirchyBoy

Maybe take the opportunity to convert your rig to the removable twist and lock cord that has a connector on the outside wall.

That is a great idea. [emoji2]

Someone cut off the cord on my first camper and sold the copper. I asked the dealer for a way to prevent that from happening again, but he pretty much told me that there was no other option, just replace the cord and hope that it never happens again. Every time that I stop by the storage unit and check on this camper, I check to make sure that the cord is still there.

I had always wished that this camper came with a removable twist lock style cord, and if I have to replace the cord, I am going to put the twist lock style on.

Great suggest. Thank you.

Daryl

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[rosede]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I remove the batteries (two 6 volt batteries) at the end of the camping season and store them in the garage. I've got boat batteries, ATV/UTV batteries, tractor batteries all of which would discharge and freeze, so I've built a battery station in the corner of my garage. I put them all there and recharge them as needed through the winter.

I don't need an elaborate charging station, but can I use a Float Charger?

Someone suggested that I use one before, I'm not familiar with them and I'm not sure if I can leave it hooked to the battery all winter long.

I removed the battery last weekend and put it in the garage. It won't freeze there. I'm thinking of getting a float charger and just leave it on until spring. Any concerns with that?

Thank you

Daryl.

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[GmaPaTime]

Once again John, you come up with the right solution. Thanks again

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by rosede

I don't need an elaborate charging station, but can I use a Float Charger?
Someone suggested that I use one before, I'm not familiar with them and I'm not sure if I can leave it hooked to the battery all winter long.

I removed the battery last weekend and put it in the garage. It won't freeze there. I'm thinking of getting a float charger and just leave it on until spring. Any concerns with that?
Thank you

Daryl.

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I do have a couple of float chargers that I bought for $4.99 at Harbor Freight. I use them on my ATV/UTV batteries, but for the others, I have a Craftsman 2/6/50 Amp automatic charger. I charge my 6 volt batteries (connected in series) on 12 volts/10 Amps for about 8 hours every "odd month" and I charge my boat/tractor batteries on the same cycle, but for 4 hours each. I "top off" my ATV/UTV batteries every month (simply because they are so expensive to replace) using the HF float chargers for a couple hours each. I do the same with the snowmobile batteries during the summer.

I don't like having "hydrogen bombs" left unattended and operational (connected to a charger) in my attached garage, so when I do the charging, it's usually on a "cold, clear day" when I can open the garage doors, air things out and not be concerned with accumulated gasses in an enclosed space. Other than the times that I'm charging them (and keeping an eye on them) all of my batteries are just sitting on shelves in the corner of the garage. It's normally somewhere around 40F in there, so they're above freezing, unlike the sub zero temps in the pole barn where the equipment they came out of is located.

As for my statement that I built a "battery station" in my garage, it's simply a couple of 3' lengths of 2x12's nailed together into a shelving unit with a left over piece of wire shelf above that where the chargers sit. Nothing elaborate and certainly nothing to be "proud of spending enormous money or time" constructing. Simple, effective and it does the job of keeping them off the floor and somewhat organized.

ADDED: I'm no battery expert, so my opinion may not be held by all, but I'm no big fan of using a "float charger" connected to a battery 24/7. Batteries are intended to be discharged/recharged, not "pumped at full volume" and maintained there with a "small charger". Doing so, in my opinion, is an invitation to sulfate the plates in a battery. Leaving a float charger connected for the winter may seem convenient, but I don't think it is the healthiest way to maintain a battery "for the long haul". I'd rather use a charger with larger amperage and connect it periodically rather than risk damaging the battery with a float charger. As I said, I'm no battery expert, but over the years, I've replaced enough motorcycle, snowmobile, ATV, UTV and jet ski batteries to not trust a float charger to protect my investment. Others may have a different opinion......

[Festus2]

You can use Google to search out "float charging vs trickle charging" or just "float charging" and read up about the advantages and disadvantages of each method. There are quite a few variables and factors - ambient temperature, type of charger, usage of battery, type of battery, etc. that enter into the charging process so its not as simple as it may seem.

Some people remove the batteries and put them on a "trickle charger" over the winter, others just give them a "bigger boost" every so often, and some leave them in the unit and use the RV 3-stage converter/charger to do the charging. Whatever method you use, it is important not to let the battery plates sulfate or become exposed from too little water.

[rosede]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I do have a couple of float chargers that I bought for $4.99 at Harbor Freight I use them on my ATV/UTV batteries, but for the others, I have a Craftsman 2/6/50 Amp automatic charger.

I don't like having "hydrogen bombs" left unattended and operational (connected to a charger) in my attached garage, so when I do the charging, it's usually on a "cold, clear day" when I can open the garage doors, air things out and not be concerned with accumulated gasses in an enclosed space.

I live just down the street from a Harbor Freight, and I knew that I could get one for about $5, that was want prompted me to ask. I also have a very nice Craftsman 12 volt auto shutoff charger which I can use throughout the winter to maintain a charge. I like it, because I often forget to go back out to the garage and check the charger and remove it when topped off. (I've ruined several cordless drill batteries over the years because of that. ) I can put it on, and let it charge over night and then disconnect it in the morning when I leave for work. Do that a couple of times during the winter might be a good idea.

Originally Posted by Festus2

You can use Google to search out "float charging vs trickle charging" or just "float charging" and read up about the advantages and disadvantages of each method. There are quite a few variables and factors - ambient temperature, type of charger, usage of battery, type of battery, etc. that enter into the charging process so its not as simple as it may seem.

Some people remove the batteries and put them on a "trickle charger" over the winter, others just give them a "bigger boost" every so often, and some leave them in the unit and use the RV 3-stage converter/charger to do the charging. Whatever method you use, it is important not to let the battery plates sulfate or become exposed from too little water.

My battery is an Interstate Battery, and I believe there is an Interstate Battery store just down the street from work. Perhaps I'll pay them a visit during lunch hour and see what they have to say on how to maintain my battery over the winter.

Thank you for all of the great feedback.

[BirchyBoy]

Originally Posted by rosede

.....
My battery is an Interstate Battery, and I believe there is an Interstate Battery store just down the street from work. Perhaps I'll pay them a visit during lunch hour and see what they have to say on how to maintain my battery over the winter.

Thank you for all of the great feedback.

Take your wallet. They'll say whatever is the most expensive option for you and the most revenue for them!

[rosede]

Originally Posted by BirchyBoy

Take your wallet. They'll say whatever is the most expensive option for you and the most revenue for them!

Just got back from the Interstate Battery store. They tested my battery and told me that it tested good. He did try to sell me a new one. He said that mine is over two years old and that the manufacturer's put in the lowest quality battery that Interstate offer's, which I believe. The replacement was only $114 with trade. Not a bad price. But, I think that I'll hang onto this one for at least one more season and then reevaluate.

After doing some additional research, I've decided to get a battery tender for use during the winter.


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